The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by bostonhemi, Dec 4, 2012.
Moving along, gonna be an ok build.
Boston, glad to see this moving along. The shop you paid for the mustang 2 install should have gotten the track width right. I like the paint color, get it running and driving and never take it off the road again, just keep drivin it.
Just stopped by the machine shop to check the engine. I found a set of different valve covers to go on the motor. I might be selling the intake and the steel black valve covers and some other parts soon (send me a message if you need any Chrysler hemi parts). Going to go with a HH 4v intake and 600cfm quick fuel carb and will use the rebuilt carter on the stock 331 hemi on the 34 Dodge p/u.
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those are nice!!
DSCN0754 by bostonhemi posted May 23, 2015 at 5:07 PM
I decided to use the carb on the 34 project instead. Got it running before we returned up north and I was surprised and pleased to see all the dang snow finally melted off the 31 coupe. Now to plan whats next for the 31.
Its been tight $$$ but I am on mine again. Finished assembling the QC and front end after I painted the frame. Finished brake lines and master cylinder. I just mounted the 6x2 intake yesterday for good I hope.Going to fire up the hemi next week. Then on to the body work then mounting it to the frame. Will have some pics next week if it ever stops raining here.
I made an engine cradle to pickup the built hemi soon then off to the dyno. (Hopefully next week). I marked up the motor mounts today and went through a bunch of boxes of parts from when I had to clear out all my stuff from the shop (in 2days) that went out of business that was suppose to do my chassis.
I picked up the built hemi today and I'm really happy with everything Dana and John has done. I brought it over to Dennis' shop for the Dyno, Hopefully soon. I couldn't use the wood engine cradle It wouldn't fit between the headers and around the alt. so maybe I'll get another motor to put on it.
Added some recent photos of the engine.
331 hemi was hooked up to the dyno today and broke it in. Had a couple of small issues. It took a very long time for oil to reach up in the heads, so the valve covers were pulled off and all the moving parts were oiled by oiling can and run until oil came up through. Pressure was over 60 lbs. Small water leak from the bolts holding the timing cover where the alt. bracket was bolted. Going to run it tomorrow to check the hp.
I finally figured out how to post video. ty clay. 331 hemi break-in
You gotta love that... a hemi running without valve covers, great project.
NO dyno. Going to replace the mystery cam. Doesn't idle well, may have too much lift.
Brought the engine back to the machine shop. So far he found an oil plug near the distributor that had a hole drilled in it. He's going to recheck the valve to piston clearance. He already checked it with a scope and found no problems. Anyone want to suggest anything i'd appreciate it. ty
I Marked up the motor mounts and cut them to fit around the boxed frame rails. Going to try to cut a recess to the firewall after I find a distributor for mock up and try to get the mounts welded in before the snow comes. No word on the engine yet but was assured there aren't any big issues.
Back to the 31. I located the motor mounts today and will check the clearance between the front of the engine with the water pump to the radiator before I tack them in place. The firewall will have to wait for a bit as I still need to go through all the boxes of parts because the shop closed without warning. Hopefully I can dyno the engine this summer and will post it.
I'm a fender guy but snapped a couple photos one with one w/o.
I moved the engine forward to avoid cutting the firewall and removed all the little screws and such from it and cleaned the tranny and painted it.
I was able to do a little more today. I put the crossmember under the transmission loosely(intending to use the old engine mount I believe) so I'll check the angles of the engine and driveshaft after I reread the posts on it again. I also removed the rest of the hacked up wire harness/gauges and I made a template of the gauge area to help me decide how to install the new 6 gauge configuration.
I couldn't configure the 6 gauges the way I wanted so I ordered a turned gauge insert from Hoodlum. The crossmember ends are on angles so I need to add an inch or so of metal on 2 of the 4 holes to bolt to the frame and I drilled the center for the new tranny mount. Soon I hope to start filling in the holes on the firewall and fit the kick/front floor/tranny tunnel. I bought a wire welder (H, F) A friend of mine recommended I heat the metal first (torch) before welding. Hope I havn't lost my touch. Its been over 25 yrs since I've welded and I mostly used oxy/acetylene braze back then.
I would be interested in the original instruments and coil. PM sent.
Worked on the crossmember today adding some width to it. The welding went better than expected. I suppose I didn't forget everything I learned in high school. I also disassembled an original taillight stand I got from Dodger for the right rear of the car so i'll have a pair. I soaked the screws with pb blaster but ended up using a cut-off wheel. Now I have to find the new reproduction taillight n lens I got from Dave at Dodgecity.
I was able to do a little more today. I hung a header and used a piece of 1 inch pvc in place of the steering shaft and I will be going under the motor mount probably when I get to the steering. I grinded the holes on the firewall in prep. of welding them closed but I will run some bolts through some of them first and weld them as my friend Jim encourage me to do so I'll have a place to bolt to under the dash.
Finished drilling out and installing the transmission crossmember today. Now I'm trying to get the right angles between the transmission and the rear end but I'm not quite getting it. I read all the posts a few times but for some reason I'm not there yet. I ran stringers to check the angles. I have the tranny down 3 degree and the rear end up looks like 7-9 so the bottom stringer from the rear end crosses the upper one from the tranny 3/4 s of the way toward the back of the tranny. I don't want to tack weld the spring pads until i'm sure its right. Should I point the rear end down? and how much?
I would appreciate some input ty.
I had a good morning. Thanks to FJ for a detailed explanation of driveshaft angle and another big thanks to 31 Vicky for a simplified clear version.
I jacked up the frame to take the weight off the rear end, then was able to tilt the rear end easily to the angle needed placing the gauge in the yolk straight up n down. It is now just about where it needs to be. I will check everything again before tack welding everything in place. While I was working on the rear end I figured it was a good time to contour the lowering blocks to match the leaf springs.
In the meantime I ordered a steering column, wheel, steering shaft, traction bars etc. Now I have to decide what wiring to go with I'm leaning towards Rebel my friend used Ron Francis, I have Painless (a couple of wire colors don't fit the diagram) on my 34 Pickup Ron installed when the truck was his.
I began trying to fill in the holes in the firewall but didn't get very far. Its been raining (seems like everyday now). On a more positive note, I believe I have all the parts now to get the car together and drivable except for the wiring.
I found someone whos been welding over 40 yrs that's going to help me weld up everything I need done to move things along after I prep and fit whats left (motor mounts, radiator support, firewall, upper shock mounts above the rear end and the front of the traction bars.
I haven't done much this week except press the sleeves out of the rear shocks to put them on the lower mount and get some parts together.
I made a call to HH about a new camshaft. Bob recommended a 270@111 (.465 lift, 221 Dur .050, 111 ls) 331/354 and change the rear end gears.
What do you hemi guys think?
The weather has made it hard to make progress so I measured up the front floor and made a template inside the house.
I started fitting the template of the front floor. The next job will be to layout the metal and trans. tunnel, mark it up and cut it. I'm hoping I'll be able to reuse the bolt threads around the floor.
I've continued on the floor measuring cutting. Those edges get really sharp so I filed them a bit.
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