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1930s Era Champ Car - new project

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER, Nov 20, 2007.

?

Another question: Posi or non-posi?

Poll closed Aug 18, 2021.
  1. Posi for two-wheel traction

    100.0%
  2. No Posi for better handling in the corners.

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  1. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,776

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    Before marrying the nose piece to the rad support hoop a few details need to be done.
    The rivet holes for the Dzus springs need to be recessed.
    The center hole needs a bevel.
    The nose holes need to be located, drilled, and recessed so the Dzus buttons do not rub the underside of the hood.
    I squirted a little rust preventative primer on the tabs before attaching the springs.

    Everything fit up perfectly.

    sr_shell80.JPG sr_shell81.JPG sr_shell82.JPG



    The hood will lay on top of these fasteners, covering them up. A piece of welting will cover the mounting flange. Holes will be punched in the welting to access the Dzus buttons with the hood removed.
     
  2. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,776

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    As far as an attachment point at the front of the nose I just got an idea. Make a hidden fastener behind a removable starter crank hole. That way the Dzus button at the front of the car will also be hidden.
     

    Attached Files:

    loudbang and HJmaniac like this.
  3. GearheadsQCE
    Joined: Mar 23, 2011
    Posts: 2,801

    GearheadsQCE
    Alliance Vendor

    How do you make a removable hole? But, it's a great idea!:D
     
    loudbang likes this.
  4. If you put a blind removable recessed cover over the crank hole, Hasn't the crank hole been removed, which is removing a visible fastener needed to remove the removable nosepiece?
     
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  5. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,776

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    More pieces of the shifter are done. I reinstalled the body cowl and shortened the shifter handle so it is clear of the steering wheel but still within reach.

    shifter 10.JPG shifter 11.JPG shifter 12.JPG
     
  6. Dave G in Gansevoort
    Joined: Mar 28, 2019
    Posts: 769

    Dave G in Gansevoort
    Member
    from Upstate NY

  7. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,776

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    Thanks. I did not want a modern looking shifter designed to be used with a console so I tried to keep it simple - what it might have looked like back when.
     
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  8. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,776

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    The simple Park - Reverse gear lockout is next. The handle with the Bakelite knob is from a 1940 Logan lathe. Very period correct. I may substitute a chrome ball for the Bakelite knob to match the shifter. Also thinking about adding a lockout gate for the lever so it doesn't get snagged by an arm restraint or glove.
    shifter 13.JPG
    shifter 14.JPG
     
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  9. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,776

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    Park / Reverse lockout installed. Pushrod will be trimmed to length later.

    shifter 15.JPG shifter 16.JPG shifter 17.JPG
     
  10. Dave G in Gansevoort
    Joined: Mar 28, 2019
    Posts: 769

    Dave G in Gansevoort
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    Think Roadrunner and Wiley Coyote!
     
    loudbang likes this.
  11. |Tom|
    Joined: Oct 12, 2009
    Posts: 158

    |Tom|
    Member

    Bitchin’! Too cool. :cool:
     
    loudbang likes this.

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