Been going back and forth on this one deciding how I wanted to proceed, but now I'm pretty committed so I might as well get a build thread going. As it sits right now with JWRG Rails, and the rest off my plasma cam. The rear is a 9" out of a first gen bronco with 4:10's and a limited slip. The body, it's a little rough but fixable. I don't have a ton of time so this may get replaced with a Brookville later, time will tell. The k member may turn into an x depending on how the brake master ends up. I'm not super hot on the rear crossmember, throw me some Ideas if you have them. I have been reluctant to tack it in until I decide if I like it. Axle bracket, shock mounts, ladder bars The front axle is a Model A that I gave a light drop to in my new jig. I had originally intended on using a drilled 42 axle but didn't like how the wishbones came out on the frame and also didn't like the limeted turning radius due to the wider perch holes and split bones. 2.5" drop I stole this trick for someone here on the HAMB can't remember who it was but Thank you! Much easier to set the thrust, pinion angle and ride height 1 time rather than have to square up the rearend every time. I already had the frame drawn out for the boxing plates so it took no time at all to draw in the axle tube and make these locator plates to tack in. That has us pretty much up to date. I have a repro deuce grill and a fitted hood. That is a getrag(sp?) 3500 5 speed in it with the mockup motor. I have a pretty hopped up 327 all ready to go and just picked up a used 3x2's setup with 2GC's that will be on it.
Ride height always seems like a crap shoot, hard to judge how much a car is going to weigh and how much the spring is spread can have a major effect on spring rate. I decided to build me a set of adjustable spring perches that let me move the mounting point up and down, closer and farther from the axle and by sliding back and forth on the axle tube I can change spring spread. All of this can be on the car until the car is essentially built and then I can make some fine adjustments, measure it out and then build the spring perches one time and as a result only have to weld them on the axle one time. At least that is my plan as this is the first time I have used them. They could still use some refinements but should be a good test.
Is it possible to post a DXF file on here? I would put up the boxing plate file for the JW rod garage rails if anybody wants it.
Starting to get caught up in the shop so decided to put a couple of hours into the model a. Trying a new idea for an engine mount, Made from 1/8 CR and 1 inch welded seam tubing. I seams kind of bold right now but I'm hoping that one the frame is painted and the real engine is in it it will blend in a little more.
I finished the front boxing plates and got the engine crossmember tacked in and figured it was time for another mockup. I was going to do a spring behind but I think I will instead just go with a spring over and one of JW Rod garage's 1" dropped crossmembers, anyone know if a c-notch has to be cut to use it and one of Posies dropped springs? Grill needs to be lowered a little I would say. Looking forward to getting this grungy mockup motor out so I can put the 327 in, I'm currently rebuilding a 3-2's setup for it at the day job.
Took some time to get back to the project, I pulled the motor and trans to mount the front suspension, I cut out these wishbone mounts and mounting plates on the plasma cam. Then Machined out these tie rod end weld bungs complete with a 7 degree taper. And drilled and tapped the mounting holes. Tig'd in the bungs, Then welded the mounting plates onto the frame, I will tig the top and bottom when I complete the welding on the chassis later. Here they are mounted, I will of course switch to grade 8 hardware on final assembly. Overall Picts at this point Now I had ordered the wrong front spring 29" vs the needed 31" SO I burned out some temporary mockup shackles. Then got to thinking what does this hurt? it gives a little more drop, probably 1/2"....... any thoughts on this?
Nice build.....will be following this for sure! With the 31 body, how did you determine the width dimensions on the frame rails? Are the measurements per the "Wescott" 32 blueprint, or did you pinch them in at the cowl? -Thanks
Those long shackles are apt to interfere with the axle beam over bumps...I'd seriously have a longer main and secondary leaf made up, or get the 32" spring. Shackle geometry is a narrow channel.
Thanks, when I get on a little more time and if there is enough interest I was planning on having them for sell on the website, just a shade under $100 for the pair to buy them but I had not concidered renting them, Might be kind of hard as they go on early in the build but do not come off until the later stages. Some times that can be years depending on the builders pace.
We were looking it over and doesn't appear to be an issue I really don't see a lot of other issues either. I am not saying it won't get the 31" spring... more or less just thinking outloud, it does lower the car 1/2" and there is more clearance between the spring and the frame, you may actually be able to get away with not notching the frame with that setup. I really haven't seen a drawback other than people get a little nervous when they see something that isn't what they are used to.
More or less just the cost, when this thing is all done I need to be able to make a profit on it. I don't know why a simple 40 style spring cost 3 times as much to produce than this type of spring but it is what it is. I would definatly rather use a flatter spring but it needs to fit in the cost margine and be readily available....always like sugestions, I definatly don't have all the answers.
I was going to ask about the spring choice also. Unless really needed for a QC, it's gonna eat into the floor space. But I see you have an answer...carry on....
I was reading in this month's rod and custom that they were using a forty FRONT spring in the back. Is that common? When they said 40 spring. I always assumed that they were using a rear spring Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I have read on here guys using 40s front springs or taking leaves out of the rears. as for crossmember one can be fabricated very easily out of round tubing and a flat flange, or square tubing. both can be dressed up nicely. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/media/photo0593.167672/
Worked on the new sub floor a little yesterday, fabbed out of .095 1 1/2" X 3/4" and 18ga sheet. rolled in some beads, really could have used another set of hands as wrestling the whole sheet alone was a trick. Then tacked it in.
I hate typing on my cell so I'll let the pictures talk for themselves. Cheers Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
This is rear crossmember version 3.0 , I think I like this one. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Anybody have opinions on these springs? The T has 5 leaves while the 40 front spring has 8 leaves . I am thinking about removing 3 or 4 leaves. This is of course to use in the rear. I found this one at competition engineering for a really good price. It will be nice to have a flat floor in the trunk Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I picked up the body from the blasters and need to make some repairs. Most of the patches will need this body line so I fired up the lathe and turned out some rolls. I think I need to build a reciprocating hammer as I think I could make custom dies faster for it. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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