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1930 Model A Hot Rod SOLD!

Discussion in 'Cars For Sale' started by MO A-Rod, Nov 16, 2016.

  1. MO A-Rod
    Joined: Jan 26, 2012
    Posts: 10

    MO A-Rod
    from Missouri

    City: Imperial

    State: Missouri
    Price: SOLD!
    I built this all steel Model A hot rod during the Winter of 2011 and Spring of 2012.
    It was put on the road June 2012.

    Ever since, it’s been driven on a regular basis: to countless local shows and cruises, to work many many times, to my daughter’s school, to the store and any other excuse to take it for a spin.
    It’s THAT reliable and THAT fun.

    A people magnet to say the least.
    Thumbs up from passers-by wherever you go, always seems to be someone at the gas stations wanting to ask questions and the cam is an attention getter at stoplights and car cruises.

    Why am I selling?
    After four and a half years of enjoyment, it’s time to move on to another build-no idea what yet but I need the garage space to make that happen.
    I'm sure I'll regret selling it in the future.....we all know how that goes.

    Some general specs:
    Frame-1930 Model A and matching title
    Engine-1991 F150 302 with a Summit dual plane intake, Edelbrock 500 carburetor, HEI distributor and Comp Thumpr Cam that runs happily on 87 octane all day long.
    Transmission-C4 automatic built by the best local shop (Transmissions to Go).
    Converter-Transmission Specialties 2600-2800 street converter and Lokar shifter.
    Exhaust-I built the headers and installed Car Chemistry baffles (not very loud. . .."just right").
    Axles-Front and rear axles are mid-late '40's Ford sedan-rear is 3.54 open.
    Brakes-mid-late 40's drums, street rod under-floor assembly with "Corvette" master cylinder, Summit proportioning valve.
    Wheels-powder coated steelies Tires-Coker wide whites.
    Steering box-Ross from a '62 Willys Jeep pickup (spot-on ratio, great to drive).
    Cooling system-Aluminum radiator with thermostatically-controlled electric fan (works seamlessly).
    Electrical-Full harness with fuse block and relay, GM one wire alternator, gauges,
    headlights are brand new stainless with halogen bulbs and integral turn signals,
    taillights are brand new stainless Model A with brake/park lights and turn signals.
    Seat-modified middle seat from a mini van. Super comfortable....still has the OEM retractable cup holders.
    Body-All rusted-out and missing metal was replaced with Howell's sheetmetal repair panels (both door skins, both lower/inner doors, both lower cowl panels and both cab corners).
    Rear cab section is a '28-29 skin on a 1x1 box tubing structure. VERY sturdy arrangement!
    Floor-1x1 box tubing structure covered in sheetmetal and a Howell's formed trans tunnel.
    Doors-from a Tudor sedan and fully functional with bearclaw latches.

    I could type for I said before, I built the car myself so I can answer most any question about it. I have a mind boggling number of pictures of during the build process.
    Car looks real cool without the hood, too. EASY to remove.

    This is a turnkey hot rod that has been driven and proven.
    So you’re not buying an unproven new build.

    It fits in SO many different genres: the rougher crowd accepts it, I've had it referred to as a jalopy and a patina rod, too.

    Missouri buyers bonus: The state allows me to sign over the original 1930 plates that are on the car for you to use!

    I have a video link of it idling as well as a lot of great pictures to pass along via email.

    Interested? Don't hesitate to give me a shout.


    Hot Rod DR 2016.jpg
    Model A with hood PF.jpg
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2017
    rjones35 likes this.
  2. MO A-Rod
    Joined: Jan 26, 2012
    Posts: 10

    MO A-Rod
    from Missouri

    Last edited: Feb 5, 2017
  3. MO A-Rod
    Joined: Jan 26, 2012
    Posts: 10

    MO A-Rod
    from Missouri

    It's nice and cozy in my garage waiting for it's new owner. ;)
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2017
  4. MO A-Rod
    Joined: Jan 26, 2012
    Posts: 10

    MO A-Rod
    from Missouri

    I've had a few questions about the body:
    I removed all the rusted out metal and replaced it with Howell's sheetmetal panels.
    Both door skins, inner/lower doors, both lower cowl and both lower rear cab corners.
    The floor structure is 1x1 box tubing with sheetmetal floor and Howell's formed tunnel.
    Rear cab section is a '28-29 skin laid around a 1x1 box tubing structure.
    VERY rigid!
    Channeled ~3".
    Both doors are fully functional, have bearclaw latches with inside releases and limiting straps.
    Seat belts for two that are very well anchored to the main floor structure.

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