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Projects 1930 Model A Ext. cab truck build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by aanderson, Feb 19, 2014.

  1. aanderson
    Joined: Jan 25, 2012
    Posts: 18

    aanderson
    Member

    A couple months ago I was able to purchase a 1930 four door sedan out of a field. Knowing how small a stock model A truck cab is, I decided I needed something with more room. After some cutting and welding I have myself a extended cab truck. I`m trying to finish it before spring. here are some pics
     

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  2. aanderson
    Joined: Jan 25, 2012
    Posts: 18

    aanderson
    Member

    more pics
     

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  3. waxhead
    Joined: May 11, 2013
    Posts: 1,114

    waxhead
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from West Oz

    Looks good. What are your plans for the banger?? and transmission??
     
  4. aanderson
    Joined: Jan 25, 2012
    Posts: 18

    aanderson
    Member

    Right now we are just putting a high compression aluminum head on it with a header, bigger intake and a model b carb. Transmission is just a stock A. We are going to build a model b engine drilled for oil pressure and running a small turbo.
     
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  5. Russell66
    Joined: Jan 7, 2014
    Posts: 1

    Russell66
    Member
    from Lone Jack

    Looking good!
     
  6. Hookedtrout
    Joined: Feb 18, 2011
    Posts: 140

    Hookedtrout
    Member
    from East Idaho

  7. aanderson
    Joined: Jan 25, 2012
    Posts: 18

    aanderson
    Member

    thanks! just finished building the bed. all that is left to fab up before I disassemble for paint is the clutch/brake pedal assembly. still running the mechanical brakes!
     
  8. Doctor Detroit
    Joined: Aug 12, 2010
    Posts: 1,005

    Doctor Detroit
    Member

    Great idea for the extended cab. You beat me to it! Looking forward to your progress.
     
  9. aanderson
    Joined: Jan 25, 2012
    Posts: 18

    aanderson
    Member

    built a header and intake for it and wrapped it.
     

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  10. BrownCow1992
    Joined: Jan 3, 2013
    Posts: 95

    BrownCow1992
    Member
    from joliet il

    Keep up the good work truck great!!

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  11. aanderson
    Joined: Jan 25, 2012
    Posts: 18

    aanderson
    Member

    Mounted the radiator and shell
     

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  12. aanderson
    Joined: Jan 25, 2012
    Posts: 18

    aanderson
    Member

    I haven't had much time to work on it lately but I did get it rolling on the ground!
     

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  13. aanderson
    Joined: Jan 25, 2012
    Posts: 18

    aanderson
    Member

    its been awhile since i posted anything about this truck. i havent worked on it at all! im thinking about selling it if someone would be interested in it. i just have too much going on to finish it right now.
     
  14. If you're running a torque tube, why don't the radius rods attach to the tube, like they are supposed to?
     
  15. aanderson
    Joined: Jan 25, 2012
    Posts: 18

    aanderson
    Member

    Because of clearance issues. I have it set up differently.
     
  16. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,016

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    That's a good question. This suspension will bind.
     
  17. aanderson
    Joined: Jan 25, 2012
    Posts: 18

    aanderson
    Member

    Bold statement.. Explain
     
  18. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,016

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Not really.

    The torque tube and the suspension links each swing in radically different arcs.

    In the original application, the radius arms were attached directly to the torque tube. The entire assembly pivoted on a ball on the tail cone of the transmission case, like a large swingarm.

    You have preserved that torque tube, with it's six-or-so foot radius swing, and paired it with a couple of links that are about 18" long.

    It's just physics.
     
  19. aanderson
    Joined: Jan 25, 2012
    Posts: 18

    aanderson
    Member

    This works just fine. At what point will it bind? Hasn't so far.. Just curious before it happens
     
  20. gimpyshotrods
    Joined: May 20, 2009
    Posts: 17,016

    gimpyshotrods
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Works fine when? On the shop floor? That ain't the road.

    You will not get more that an inch or two of movement before your components are put under strain.

    I would wager that if you get this on the road, you will tear a control arm mount off of the frame, or the axle.
     
  21. aanderson
    Joined: Jan 25, 2012
    Posts: 18

    aanderson
    Member

    ill keep this in mind. thanks for the info..
     
  22. Those radius arms on the factory rear axle are to brace the diff tubes, nothing else. You'd be better off attaching arms to the furthermost point on the torque tube you can (eg. immediately behind the cab) rather than introduce bind issues where there is no need for it.
     
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  23. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,588

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    Not to be a party spoiler, you had be from the get going, not only did you get an good ideer with the extended cab you did some nice work on the chop.
    I love the pressurized banger with a blower, and a modern gearbox wouldent be bad either, but where it went south for me was the bed.
    Why do you want to make and shallow bed with a working tailgate? That would make for a useful cab and a worthless bed on a truck!

    I don't get that!
    I agree with the others about the rear suspension. But if you did something to make it not bind, it's all good. Post a video of it going true the motions.
    To prove us wrong, or prove you self right.
    That would help in an fore sale scenario.

    No disrespect meant. I like the craftmanship/skill you bring to the table, but your rear setup dosent match the quality of you other work.

    Is it a part of the original plan not to de-rust tge cab?
     
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2015
    gimpyshotrods likes this.

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