x2 luckily I figured this out before I had done anything other than clean the leaves and mouse nests off/out of my pickup.
Ben: It sounds like you have your heart set on saving the frame. We admire the effort and energy you are giving to the project. Experience will tell you some day that what money you spend on another frame, will be tripled in aggravation and man hours if you spend the time, money and energy to repair this one. Would you like to know why we say these things? Yes, we've been there. If you do find a good frame for a really decent price, you still have some value in the cross members in your existing frame.z9 (I haven't looked at them real hard) I would like to have started with a cherry frame for my cabrio but...this one needed a ton of work but cost me only $350. That would by a really nice A frame. Really nice 33-34 frames go from six to nine hundred depending on who where and when. Plus I was anxious to get started. Stay at it man, keep us up to date. Tim
Ben, Take all the pictures you can, and save them on a usb drive as you go - not only to help you on how things originally went together, but so that you can go back every once in a while and see that you are making progress. Use the tools you have, and if you need something done you can't do or don't have tools for, see if you can find a helpful fellow rodder to lend a hand, and possibly teach you some new skills. Spend time here on the HAMB looking at all the A coupe builds, pick out the ideas you like, and see how others solve problems that sometimes seem insurmountable, but really are just things you haven't done yet. If there's nothing big to do, sand,clean,and prime or paint parts that you will be reusing. When you disassemble things, get some ziplock bags in different sizes and put the hardware (and smaller parts) in them with a paper tag noting what they are. If your build takes as long as most seem to, you'll forget what went where if you don't have any reference. Most of all, try to keep it enjoyable, and spend some time every day or so doing something related to your build. Best of luck
Focus on getting your body built. Measure that frame now that it is bare, to see if it's square. Even if it's not a good runner candidate, you can use it as a jig to build the car up and then switch over to a cleaner frame. Just don't make your body super rigid until it's over on the final frame. I'm just saying that there's no reason to feel like you're at a standstill because of that frame.
Frame is actually perfect square, but I am thinking the crossmembers should come out, or at least the rivets holding them in... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App! -Ben LeBlanc
Weld some angle iron braces to the frame before you remove anything. Otherwise you will lose that perfect square. I'd leave it alone for now.
Of course. I was just thinking of what to do in the future. If I am going to keep it, I will have to do a lot of work, but I think I can handle it; even if it may not be "in my best interest". I believe that the whole purpose of a build like this is to save what you can, so I hope I can do something. I hope to get the new subrails and floor sections soon; but I still have to get to airgas; as they close when I get out of work, and open after I get to work.
I think the one in Billerica is open later one day a week. You're running a banger, ao if you box that frame it may work out. It's tough to tell from the video. You should switch to poating still images.
Got yourself a coupe, that's cool, remember, one small step at a time, each step is a project, it'll get finished, pull it all apart and see what you have, start with the frame and work your way up, you'll get there.
How much trouble would it be for you DMV wise, to build a frame in 2x4, reuse your frame horn a rear cross member, and start fresh? You can make every bit as good as a box frame. If you are running a banger, you don't need boxing, but if you cut to much out of it, you need to reinforce all your welds, that it ends up being a box when you are done. I would bite bullit, and go for a better frame, it's easier to patch the body, then to patch the frame. Frame has to be structural!! Post pictures, and save the videos for fire up, test run or listen to this noise. If you got a welder, a break and the ideers, I would fab my own subrails, maybe even channel since the bottom is bad, and then spend more money on the visual stuff, like the quarters, doors and trunk. There is no shame in being low on cash, but it's a damn shame to use money on stuff you can make your self! There will be plenty of things to use your hard earned cash on.
I think the look you're thinking of is like the Morris Brothers SoCal Speed Shop Roadster. You'll notice that not all of the external frame is drilled and it's not boxed. I think that if you still want to go with a drilled external frame rail and full boxing with punch n' dimpled plates, that you should take a cue from this rod and not carry the drilling through the length of the rails but just do the cowl back to around the rear tire. That's manageable.
Hey Ben, I just came across these boxing plates that are designed to slide inside the frame. These might be the best way to go in order to run with the frame you've got. "THE BOXER" 1928-1931 MODEL A INNER CHANNEL BOXING PLATES http://www.code504.com/the-boxer-1928-1931-model-a-inner-channel-boxing-plates/ I haven't heard anything about them or the company that makes them, but they look like a pretty great idea to me if they fit and are installed right. They sell on eBay too so that might end up cheaper (it does with Eastwood sometimes at least). I'm not sure what the story is with their center crossmember though. That sure doesn't look like mine. Regardless, they can be cut or drilled any way you need them with a little time and cardboard. I'd say the price is right and I might get a set myself.
Got the engine out! And those boxing plates do look cool. I would probably still need to do some fabrication, but it is good to know about. Right now, I am seeing how much the cost would be for a local technical high school to bell some holes for me, as well as drill them. I am going to take a shot at the front end removal tomorrow, and hopefully I can get the frame off to sandblast soon. I actually thought about making my own box frame, but it would be hard to square up, especially with my lack of real set up. The same does for the full length subrail idea. Also, since I have the engine out, what are people's idea of intake, headers, and heads, keeping in mind that I want to keep the hood on? O am thinking dual zenith down draft with less than or equal to 6:1 compression.
I think there is a HAMBER that can fab up what you want for you intake and headers. I think he may be local too. Or DIY. I think once you get that frame blasted and primed that you should get those channel plates. Just cut them to fit around the stock crossmembers (make templates out of cardboard first). You can drill some holes through them using the stock holes on the frame after you clamp them in snug, run a tap through, and bolt them in until you've done everything you need to do before welding.
If you are willing to work in that tent, you are so committed that squaring up a frame, should be very doable! I have confidence in you! There is a thousand ways to go on that one! Bit the newer era you shoot for, the more mods you need! I would bump the stuck head, there is a good set-up in the banger group. But think about a dual updraft manifold, better breathing and self adjusting ignition. And go from there, most of the oldschool guys started out with a mild set up! And another thing, can you drive an unsyncro'd box, double clutching and all? If you can't look at transmission upgrade, and maybe 5speed and/or OD.
I used channel plates in my frame, as it was pretty bad also, stablity wise...takes a bit of tinkering to get lined up (and mumbling quietly helps)....after the whole process, I wished I had just got a new frame instead, because everything depends on 'that' foundation....but maybe it is cheaper in the long run to some degree just re-inforcing your old frame. The biggest thing you need to remember, is patience....plug along at a pace that suits you, and don't get in a hurry...do it right, and it will be headache-free for years...taking shortcuts on a body or frame structure will come back to haunt you later on (I know from experience on this fact, I must admit).....you got a great project, and take your time....lots of great help from these guys here is a treasure trove of information...good luck!!!
I actually tried to find box metal, but it is not made in four inch by one inch. Besides, I like the look of the stock frame; and not so much the aftermarket frames (especially those with weird rear cross members) I tried to look for a banger social group but there is none that I can tell. I want to run dual carbs just aesthetically, and just for monetary reasons, I was going for dual zenith 1 carbs, as strombergs are like 400 bucks per, or at least 150 used and abused on eBay. I like the look of the y pipes that the secrets of speed guy makes, so I might try to make my own of similar design. But tell me which head everyone likes, as I am unsure about aluminum, don't know about Tomas heads, and never hear about Snyders. Any tips?
What after market frames does you dislike, most of them look stock. But the square tubing looks a little out of place, but if you use a boxing plate, the look pretty much the same. Solid is the keyword with frames. I remember some low bucks guy flipping the manifold over and using something else. But there is some guys over here that runs stromberg or SU carbs of a either Volvo 164 or Rover 3500. They are easy to adapt, easy to trim. I don't know how available they are around you. Manifold you can do yourself. Just find some pre bend exhaust pipe Head is a multiple choose question, depends on what you like. But there is a lot of possibilitys. Alu is good, Snyder is good and Winfield is good. It's mostly a question of what you match it up to. I've been thinking about using a police head at one point. But I dident get a good block.
You don't NEED to run Stromberg 97's. There are other downdraft carbs. I've got several non Stromberg carbs, some Holley and some Ford branded that would probably work. I've got a Carter somewhere too. Point is, you don't need to use $400 Strombergs just to go downdraft.
You dont need to run strombergs 97! Despite being the godfather of traditional carbs, tgey are not the only carb around!! There is a ton of options, dare I say, even stock carb is an option. But two is better, or two other is even better I really love this set up! It belongs to a @manyoldcars on here. That's the SUs I talked about. There is a Stromberg that looks just like it, that is a little easier to set up, but does a good job! Being Variable Venturi, they are easy to adapt to the right amount of fuel. The comes in different sizes.
No. Not unless you want to build a frame table and build it over again. Blast it. Straighten it if need be. Box it.
That Nice. Dont tabe it apart, unless the joints is all flaired open from rust between the rails and crossmembers. Blast it, primed, give it some epoxy on the inside. Install boxing a plate and I would weld Nuts inside the frame for body mounts and etc. decide how low you want it, moderate low, I would cut of the of the rear crossmember, put it on top of the frame, fishplates and box it. Flatten the front cross member. Get model T spring in the rear, and leave every other layer out of spring packs. Or reverse eye. Use the seach function. I try to get pics.
This is a tardel kick kick up. But it's all a matter of what era you are going for. But remember that it's hard going back on the frame.
Maybe, but I would still cut out top and bottom, and put in a z-scraped fish plate. And box it on top. The fewer cuts, and welds gives the best frame. Stop me if I say something stupid, but is it not the right way to flip the bells, and install the model T front spring in front of the rear with reversed eyes to get it low, and keep the wheelbase the same? And if he want four inch drop axel in front, can he run unsplit bones?
Before you get deep into this project, apply for a title NOW. It might save you a lot of anguish, grief and money later. Ask me why I know.
I believe you, but I have my father making a house up in Maine. By the time that I get it done, I can register it up there no problem with a bill of sale. Besides, I do not want to insure it or any of that because I don't even know if a 19 yr old kid can...
I will be watching and learning from your build. I too just bought a '31 Coupe yesterday. I will be updating my thread when I bring it home this week. Good luck and just remember: how do you eat an Elephant.
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