The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by BenLeBlanc, Dec 5, 2014.
So here is the progress...
Parts have been stuck at the blasters because I couldn't paint. I was offered to use the booth while the shop didn't need it so I took advantage of the opportunity and painted the parts.
I then went home and spot welded the cowl all back together. (See photos above) the dash is mounted using two factory #12 inserts on the sides and then a bracket in the middle.I was able to use the drilled holes I made the first time to line up the panel to where it was originally. Had to drill 1/4 inch holes in order for the tacks to hold though!
I then poly'd my wood. I used minwax helmsman satin finish. (80 grit, poly, 320 grit, poly) Turned out very good. Mr. Mike Bowling should be proud!
I then also spot welded the edges back onto the rear window piece, and this rigidified the structure and everything went very smoothly!
In other news, I moved onto carport version 4.0. I picked up a used snap on box on the cheap off of Craigslist. I got three pairs of drawer slides for free under warrantee and it is now perfect!
Quarters are coming back next week, and wood is hopefully going to go back with them!
Been looking around and everyone is gunning for TROG2017!!! I have to get myself into gear!
So, today I made my headlight mount. Trog doesn't need any headlights, but the state does and I will need to drive down!
This took a lot of fitting time. I chopped all of the different pieces into sections and then welded the gap. Then ground the weld into a curve to fit the profile. Everything not painted is weld.
As you can tell, it took a lot of fill! I wanted the lights to be on the bar to mount on the side of the frame instead of the top because it looks more rounded, where if it were on top, it would have been more rectangular.
I also correctly angled the light bowls and that was a real chore. Finally, I shortened the center section four inches on each side and put that in.
I also did a bunch of buttoning up- headers reinstalled, baffles installed, carb installed...
Looking good Ben, I have some catching up to do. So you want to drive to TROG do you. . . . ?
Headed for the goal line, Buddy!!
Lookin' REAL nice!!
(and I AM proud of you, even if you ARE an Engineer! HaHa)
Lots of projects will be hittin' the street around here next summer!
Well, I think I would have to. Should not be that bad but hopefully all the parts work seamlessly. (Coupe being easier than a roadster and all.)
And thanks Mike- that engineer thing is something I would expect from a carpenter! Haha. Major progress soon.
Awesome progress!! Good to see it on all fours.
What prevents a thief with a screwdriver from removing your shed hinges!
"A " is looking great!
Great progress Ben, she's looking great.
Wow, been busy is right.
Wow Ben, looking good bud!
Looking great ! Read the entire thread last night ... you've come a long long way with your car.
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When are we gonna chop it Ben? A nice 4"
Chop would be nice.
Once it's road worthy bring it over and we'll cut it up.
I'm on the edge of 4-4.5 inch chop. The passenger door is binding currently due to the top hinge being welded in slightly off. I am planning on roughly laying out the chop and then relieving that door soon so that I can finalize the body more.
A fellow hamber sold me a sweet F1 box, so I was working on that for the past couple of weekends.
I am going to have to lengthen the drag link 3.25 inches-- I remember having a complete extra tie rod and I want to use that instead so that it has adjustment. I plan to sleeve and pin it with heavy wall tube as well.
The column is receiving a f100 steering wheel and the plan is to section it 4-5 inches.
How long a drag link you need? You can order custom lengths from Speedway for a reasonable price.
I also have one that's too long under my T currently. It's the correct length for a 35-up cross steer so it might be long enough for side steer on an A.
How long is yours, maybe we could swap? Just a thought. Might save you a little labor that you could put elsewhere.
Its been a while since I looked at this thread. Great looking progress! Keep it up.
The drag link doesn't need any adjustments. Put the steering box on center and do the same with your wheels then the drag link will be the length between your pitman arm and steering arm at the left wheel. You will never need any adjustment there
Ben, I have a couple extra ford tie rod ends if you want to use. They are the ball and socket type, easy to rebuild and they look cool too. This is what I'm using for a drag link, mine are just tacked at this time but zoom in on my pic
Just wanted to give a little life to the thread after a half- month hiatus.
I am back at school, so progress slows. Was cleaning my door latch and found this. Thought it would be funny to post.
Sadly, it has a weak spring and doesn't catch the latch as a result-- needs more travel. I'll have to get another.
My top wood mounts (rear window to wood beside quarter window) were busted when I removed them a while ago. I had to make new ones, but good thing is that I took those tips and put them on the bottom, because I was missing the bottom ones entirely.
Also made the template for my column drop. Don't worry Mike--- it is a legitimately obtained templating box.
And that is it. I got my ignition coil, battery, distributor, and plug wires. My drag link modification is in the works, and I plan to section 4 inches out of the f1 column. Current sights are for Fitchburg swap meet. Still trying for TROG, but money is super tight.
Put in some more time this weekend.
I got my tanks back from welding, which was great. Installed them and cut a hole in the floor to start running some line.
Lengthened the drag link as well (no final pic). This was done by a professional welder with two offset plug welds and tig.
I also made a cowl reinforcement that will hold the fuse panel, column mount, and switch panel. It has a plate for the glove box, but I learned that you can just buy those. It will just serve as a protector I guess.
I shortened the taillight mount because I plan on mounting it right under the deck lid, on the panel above the crossmember of the subframe. The angle was toyed with to get right. The taillight will be a Pontiac light because I like how round it is. An adapter is in the pipeline.
I subcontracted the floor to my father, a carpenter. Funny story is that a guy a couple roads down from me mills his own wood. In the middle of the city. He sold me a 10 ft plank of oak for 30 bucks and that beats plywood any day.
Also installed the mr. bowling sponsored seat roughly. Dash was also assembled a bit more.
Great surge forward in style there Ben......you are surely smelling the finish line.
Excellent Ben! I love the tanks, dash, floor, wheel, etc. Sarah (the flag girl) awaits!
Spring break sucked- didn't get much done, but I did do a little.
I started the fuel lines- I got up to the mid cross and have to do it in two pieces- I need a union though. The large fittings are also not available locally, so that sucks.
Here is something cool. I wanted to use a Pontiac taillight in the rear. I also only wanted a single tail light. I realized that I needed an adapter from the light to the model a bezel that I sectioned. Here is what I came up with.
Also wanted to mention that I installed a new passenger side door latch. Bought it new, and have to say it is a good quality piece. One of the better purchases I have made.
That looks tidy
Keep going Ben....
Tail light & mount look really good.
Nice job on the tail light mount.
Finally finished my college semester- only one left!
Besides starting back at work, I resumed my work on the car. I wanted to get more done, but decided to hold off this weekend...
I needed to separate the cabin from the fuel tanks. I used 1x3 box as well as 18 gage filler triangles.
I am currently trying to find a way to mount my seat and have it semi- adjustable. I have an idea though...
Looking good Ben.
Ya know, I really dig your taillight mount idea and execution....looks good
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