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1930 Ford Coupe Project

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by BenLeBlanc, Dec 5, 2014.

  1. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,588

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    Hey Ben

    What is the complicated part about that bracket? No dis respect meant!

    Does it sit in the door jamb, will it be visual all the time? If it's just there to stiffen up things, go to town on a piece of plate, draw out a nice simple triangle, maybe use some other triangle from your shop if you wants to make another for the opposite side) add some inches to the two sides that are 90* in angle to each other, make the sides in a size you can bend over in the vice.
    And bob is your uncle.

    This is not a restoration, this is a hot rod.
     
    bengeltiger and BenLeBlanc like this.
  2. Geez, so pushy...
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1465943498.266834.jpg
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    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1465943523.216652.jpg
     
    bengeltiger, slv63, 54reno and 2 others like this.
  3. A lot of progress today. First off, I am about 80 percent done the brake lines. I am using factory holes for the front adel clamps.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1466300723.957535.jpg
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    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1466300770.292302.jpg
    I wanted to put this front residual under the steering box so that it is kind of lost in the midst.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1466300780.610175.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1466300831.764648.jpg

    And onto exciting stuff; I put a panel on! Funny thing is, the door already latches! So easy...
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1466300897.203412.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1466300908.887435.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1466300926.388682.jpg

    Look close at the photos; my subframe z is hitting the wells.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1466300940.458764.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1466300977.095009.jpg

    To get around this, I am going to cut in a "tear" and pull the side in, and then weld the seam shut!
     
  4. waxhead
    Joined: May 11, 2013
    Posts: 1,070

    waxhead
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from West Oz

    Making good progress, keep the updates coming.
     
    BenLeBlanc and volvobrynk like this.
  5. ESGEE
    Joined: Feb 25, 2013
    Posts: 606

    ESGEE
    Member
    from Sweden

    Great thread, keep it up...
     
    BenLeBlanc likes this.
  6. norms30a
    Joined: Jul 17, 2008
    Posts: 538

    norms30a
    Member

    Might want to tuck those brake lines up into the frame, below the frame is not a good place as a floor jack or jack stands will crush them.
     
    BenLeBlanc likes this.
  7. For sure. Completely didn't think of that; but it is a super easy fix! Just have to flip the adel clamps so that they are in the frame.

    There was a recent break in which occurred at my neighbor's house. After a couple restless nights, I had to do something. My birthday present to myself was an update to my hovel. Take a look; looks full on semi professional. Expensive and a lot of work however.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1466983628.427272.jpg ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1466983640.210887.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1466983652.094765.jpg

    Now that my hot rod is safe...

    I performed that "tear" in the subframe z and it worked wonderfully on both sides. Looks better thinner anyways. Sorry, too lazy for a pic.

    Also worked on my 20 dollar grill shell. It was surprisingly hard to patch; the metal had to have been thinner than 22 gauge.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1466983774.355567.jpg
    It still needs dolly work, but I am moving onto the bottom. I have an idea on how to fix it, and I think it will help a couple folks. Stay tuned.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1466983824.191544.jpg
     
    slv63, KustomCandy, norms30a and 2 others like this.
  8. A busy weekend. I forgot to get welding gas last week, so I didn't do what I wanted to- but still kept busy!
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1467663863.450710.jpg
    Got my engine installed! Still trying to figure out the fan/ generator setup. Engine is a ford 1940 59a sleeved with standard bore; new rings. A local shop really helped me out. New water pumps were from van pelt. 59ab heads.

    What does this look like it is for?
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1467663982.207370.jpg

    Well, none of you gave me a hard time but it seemed as though my rear brake lines were asking for trouble- a perfect setup for a hook to grab and tear off. I make these panels so that anything I encounter will just bounce off.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1467664075.900572.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1467664088.267857.jpg

    Also finished routing the brake lines- just waiting on a couple jam nuts so that I can mount the front flex line to the custom mounts I made. They are just mounts made out of 90 degree 12 gauge with a 1/4 hole in one side and 5/8 hole on the other (mount to frame and rubber hose to mount, respectively). Pics upon request.
     
    volvobrynk and ABONES like this.
  9. greaser
    Joined: Apr 30, 2006
    Posts: 816

    greaser
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Not sure about adding weight to the brake lines like that with the shields. May also be a bigger target for road debris.
    Think I'd transition from the wheel cylinder to an elbow, and then run the brake line close to the backing plate, upward (behind shock mount) and then transition straight into the existing brake line on the radius rod. (Move it from the front side of backing plate to the rear side and tuck it in close as possible with elbow at wheel cylinder). Coupe starting to take shape, Ben... keep up the good work!
     
    KustomCandy and HRK-hotrods like this.
  10. ABONES
    Joined: Dec 3, 2004
    Posts: 977

    ABONES
    Member

    Shouldn't the wheel cylinder be at the top ?
     
  11. HRK-hotrods
    Joined: Sep 26, 2007
    Posts: 922

    HRK-hotrods
    Member

    Good advice Dennis! Long time no-see. I sold the 29' coupe body I got from you but kept the roadster. I finally found a windshield for it a couple weeks ago, LOL. Not bad. Only took 8 years. Finally going to start on it soon. Hope all is well!

    Ben, I have to agree that the lines should be protected better by the existing chassis components. The shield, although a novel idea would be 86'd and I would rebend the lines to tuck them up closer to the backing plate, just for safety's sake. A blown tire or road debris could really screw your program up, especially with a single reservoir master cylinder.

    Touching on the dilemma with the patch panels, have you considered "flow forming" the bead into the metal? It's a cheap and simple way to form details into metal. Basically, you make a female hammerform (die) out of wood. You will sandwich your sheetmetal between the wood "die" and a clamping block. An aircraft rivet gun or air chisel with a nylon forming head will reproduce the bead into the metal without marring the surface or leaving hammer marks. Since the bead is the same profile, you would only have to make one form. Google it, it's a pretty cool technique. You can make cowl blisters, etc using the same technique.

    Nice job on the build. Looking forward to your continued progress.
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  12. HRK-hotrods
    Joined: Sep 26, 2007
    Posts: 922

    HRK-hotrods
    Member

  13. I don't know for sure. The profile for the brake line is not that large, and at the end of the day, the current setup will get me running. I didn't want to put a radical bend in the line due to possibly ruining the line, and I don't think there is a such thing as a 90 degree fitting with the same thread size on each end. If there were, it would probably cost ten bucks, and I have already spent too much on brake fittings. Yikes. As a result, I am going to pressurize the lines and make sure there are no leaks, and head on from there.
    I would love to get into the sheet metal forming, but have hit a conundrum. I kind of want to finish the car before I am wicked old, and I don't have the space to do crazy panels or the tools. Will definitely be forming metal in the future, but just not on this build.
     
  14. Pete
    Joined: Mar 8, 2001
    Posts: 4,462

    Pete
    Member

    Ben,

    Your doing a fantastic job! Forge forward, get the rig on the road than at a later date you can go back and work the kinks out.
     
  15. norms30a
    Joined: Jul 17, 2008
    Posts: 538

    norms30a
    Member

    I have absolutely no idea if they would work on your car but I have used banjo fittings for 90 degrees on backing plates.
     
  16. verde742
    Joined: Aug 11, 2010
    Posts: 5,228

    verde742
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Do I see copper brake lines?
     
  17. HRK-hotrods
    Joined: Sep 26, 2007
    Posts: 922

    HRK-hotrods
    Member

    volvobrynk likes this.
  18. mike bowling
    Joined: Jan 1, 2013
    Posts: 3,424

    mike bowling
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I hope you weren't using it at the time!! OUCH!
    -----------------------------------------------------------------------
    Cut the "getting old" crap, kiddo - I'M not getting old, I AM old, and just hauled a rear end out of the back shed to start another one!! (now I just have to haul MY rear end into the garage!)

    I actually went to see Ben last week in his new building, and he's doing GREAT! Frame's all set up, motors in, brakes are almost done. I'm looking forward to going out and ripping it up with him this fall or in the spring- Model "A" Coupe Rally Time!!
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  19. Correct on the nicopp front; there is a good deal on Amazon where I got 20 feet, six long tube fittings, 6 regular tube fittings, and some unions that you shouldn't use. For 30 bucks, I couldn't complain. Especially because I wanted anti-corrosion but I do not have tools able to work stainless.

    I have been patch paneling like a mad man once again, but have come to another issue.

    I have never hung a panel/ door before, so I could be doing it wrong. I recognize that the front of the cowl needs to come up as the rear of the door needs to come down. But that is not the issue.

    I have been having trouble flanging, but all of my patch panels on the door are based off of the stock door frame; so they aren't going anywhere. Furthermore, on each door, if I torque down all of the hinges and try to close the doors, they buckle and do not close fully.
    Keep in mind that the front cowl panels are free moving since they are not spot welded yet. Furthermore, I am using loose fitting nails as hinge pins currently because I don't have normal sized pins yet. Take a look.
    Drivers.

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1468839970.579112.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1468839980.362006.jpg
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    Passengers.
    This side is HEAVILY modified; I actually welded on a new top. I did so by putting it in the hinge and mocking everything up while welding.

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1468840114.337726.jpg
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    I have also realized that my cowl needs to be chopped up. I cut it so I could mock it up, but it needs more so that the fuel pump will fit.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1468840269.520322.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1468840283.188577.jpg
     
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  20. wheeldog57
    Joined: Dec 6, 2013
    Posts: 1,530

    wheeldog57
    Member

  21. volvobrynk
    Joined: Jan 30, 2011
    Posts: 3,588

    volvobrynk
    Member
    from Denmark

    I never done an body like that, but when I get that far on mine I would stuff A rod through all the hinges and correct them too the cowl. Maybe even introduce heat/torch and a big crescent (correct name for the monkey wrench?) wrench to the mix and go over the hinges till they turn freely.
    And then correct them as a unit to the 1/4.

    But other then that, you've done nothing wrong, and a complement on progress made.
     
  22. Alright; try to follow me through this, as I have made a lot of progress.

    I started by attacking the rear window panel. It had rusted through around a couple of the slots in the flange. I just welded scrap to the flange and trimmed off the excess. I then had to fix the part directly above the deck lid.
    This panel has a concave curve for the transition from the upright to the deck lid. It is arrow straight from side to side, but has a crown in the middle if you were to look at it from the rear. I made this panel myself by using a brake and a vise to hammer over.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469313823.377968.jpg
    Welded it in, and ground it down. I also added the curved pieces to the side flange as they were rotted away.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469314141.031822.jpg

    I finished that panel, and started the driver side quarter. I welded on the 12 inch patch first.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469314217.783005.jpg
    I then fabricated the piece that goes above the door. It has a curve on it so I made wedge cuts every six inches and welded the seam shut afterwards.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469314298.196738.jpg
    I cut it so that the weld was at the gutter line. I did that so that the weld could have been ground down to match the gutter depression.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469314387.520615.jpg
    I then fabricated J channel for the gutters. I did so by forming it with a hammer. Here are some photos of the progression.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469314447.024102.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469314464.143913.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469314528.724555.jpg
    By this time, there is a bend in the metal due to all of the forming. In order to combat it, I made a cut 3/4 of the way through every three inches down the line.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469314658.193952.jpg
    I then clamped the gutter where I wanted it and welded the seams in place.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469314637.791771.jpg
    I then took it off, finished welded it, and ground the welds back. Then I coated both surfaces with weld thru primer and spot welded the whole thing down.

    The rear of the panel also needed patching where the cab section ended. I folded up an L shape, and cut it so that the curve could have been formed. I also made the gutter which had rotted away as well. Weld thru primer was put inbetween before closing it up.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469314890.797384.jpg

    The wheel well was completely gone. Luckily, wheeldog had sold me some patch panels almost a year back which got me 90 percent of the way there. I started by welding the patches to the wheel well patch which had been sold with the car when I bought the project.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469314992.072479.jpg
    I then welded it in. This job sucked as the seam is the longest seam possible to weld!
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469315046.260378.jpg

    Mock up!!!
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469315063.594797.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469315092.478959.jpg

    I am now working on the passenger side. Sadly it is just as bad, and the driver side took 3 full days of 10 hr work!!!
     
    patmanta, greaser, volvobrynk and 2 others like this.
  23. wheeldog57
    Joined: Dec 6, 2013
    Posts: 1,530

    wheeldog57
    Member

    BenLeBlanc likes this.
  24. mike bowling
    Joined: Jan 1, 2013
    Posts: 3,424

    mike bowling
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Looking like a car again- good work, lad!
     
    volvobrynk and BenLeBlanc like this.
  25. waxhead
    Joined: May 11, 2013
    Posts: 1,070

    waxhead
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from West Oz

    Well you have been busy haven't you. This thing is coming along in leaps and bounds
     
    BenLeBlanc likes this.
  26. Been welding and grinding all week. The amount of time that this has been taking me kinda astounds me... 8 in the morning until 5 or six in the afternoon every day since two weeks ago...

    Anywho, been working. I needed to relocate my radiator due to the two pulley setup. I didn't want to head to the metal yard, so I took the scrap from the leaf I chopped a long time ago.

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469917725.429753.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469917773.693417.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469917786.832763.jpg

    A moment of silence; a grinder died. I think the brushes wore through, but that is a project for another day. My new 11 amp is USA made and great!

    Anyways, here is the fruit of my labor.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469918003.864034.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469918019.831897.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1469918039.948719.jpg
    I just threw the deck lid on; no fasteners yet. Still to fix as well as the panel below it.
     
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  27. mike bowling
    Joined: Jan 1, 2013
    Posts: 3,424

    mike bowling
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You're doing all the fun stuff now- I'm taking rotten wood out and trying to remove bolts and screws and hinge pins that are rusted SOLID!--- BUT>>>>>>> I"M WINNING!
    Keep up the good work- the neighbors finally get to see what all that foul language and noise was about now that you've rolled her out!
    LOOKS PISSAH!
    ( WATCH OUT TROG BITCHES!!--- BENNIE'S ON THE PROWL!)
     
    BenLeBlanc likes this.
  28. Ben: I've been checking in now and then all along. When you first started, I wouldn't have been surprised if you had stopped, bought another car or said heck with it. I wouldn't have blamed you. You've done an amazing amount of work and it's really coming around. This is a hard project but it will make the next one much easier, not having to learn so much again. Anxious to see more. Tim
     
    BenLeBlanc likes this.
  29. Pete
    Joined: Mar 8, 2001
    Posts: 4,462

    Pete
    Member

    Your an animal! Keep going.
     
    BenLeBlanc likes this.
  30. dentisaurus
    Joined: Dec 11, 2006
    Posts: 363

    dentisaurus
    Member
    from Boston

    coming along nicely there. Props for sticking with it, really great progress
     
    volvobrynk and BenLeBlanc like this.

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