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Projects 1929 Roadster Pickup Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Salt Flats Speed Shop, Jan 14, 2011.

  1. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    I also got the rear shocks mounted yesterday.



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  2. llonning
    Joined: Nov 17, 2007
    Posts: 679

    llonning
    Member

    That is looking real good. Looks like you are making good progress.
     
  3. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    I got a mock up hood made to see how it looks. I was blown away how much it improved the feel of the car. Now it all flow's together. So with the owners approval it looks like a hood will be in the mix.



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  4. PinHead
    Joined: Jun 3, 2005
    Posts: 243

    PinHead
    Member

    This thing looks awesome, so many things I would like to do if I had my own roadster build someday. I love the look of the non-dropped axle with the suicide front end, and I always wondered how you could do it without having the spring up front so it would look cleaner. Then I see your quarter-elliptical setup and it just blows me away. Really clean work man, keep it up.
     
  5. hechtspeed
    Joined: Nov 24, 2009
    Posts: 101

    hechtspeed
    Member

    Wow Chris! Looks amazing, I really dig the 2 hot rod "go karts" side by side.
    Agreed, I think the hood will be a nice look, smoother lookin'.
     
  6. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    I got the hood made today. It defiantly helps the flow of the car. Next I'll fill the top with a bunch of louvers.



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  7. Jeem
    Joined: Sep 12, 2002
    Posts: 5,885

    Jeem
    Alliance Vendor

    Very, very nice!
     
  8. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 5,981

    -Brent-
    Member

    Everything is neatly packaged, up front. Looking good.

    By the way, when do we get an update on that orange hooptie in the background?
     
  9. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah


    I'm getting close to being ready for paint. I had to do a little more to the body, but I'm at the point where I can spray more primer and wet sand so I'm ready for paint on that part. Then I just have to finish blocking the doors, and block the hood sides and I can spray the paint. I'm glad that the next car I will build will be in bare aluminum cause i'm done block sanding for a couple years. :)
     
  10. hasty
    Joined: Jul 5, 2009
    Posts: 1,409

    hasty
    Member

    "I'm glad that the next car I will build will be in bare aluminum"

    What will it be?
     
  11. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    Im wanting to build a 27 roadster that I can run at bonneville. Something similar to these:



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  12. hasty
    Joined: Jul 5, 2009
    Posts: 1,409

    hasty
    Member

    Fantastic!
    I always enjoy your build threads, but I'm really looking forward to follow this one.
    When do you start?
     
  13. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah


    Thanks.

    Ill start collecting parts after I completely finish my 32' sedan. I really want to run a blown flathead so that is going to take me a while to find all the right parts and save up enough money to have built.
     
  14. HotRodMicky
    Joined: Oct 14, 2001
    Posts: 1,768

    HotRodMicky
    Member


    Hi , where did you buy the studs with the ball end ?
    TIA
    Michael
     
  15. 79shovelhead
    Joined: Jan 12, 2010
    Posts: 110

    79shovelhead
    Member

  16. hechtspeed
    Joined: Nov 24, 2009
    Posts: 101

    hechtspeed
    Member

    You're probably aware, but a nice article/feature on the #17 resto of the Evans b'ville roadster in the latest Rodders Journal. Some nice detail and beauty shots to give you some ideas.
    Love this idea. Can't wait to see the '32 Sedan done first though. ;)
     
  17. GARY?
    Joined: Aug 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,626

    GARY?
    Member

    You can get the ball end studs from Mac's and Sact'o vintage Ford.

    Looks awesome, the craftsmanship is top notch!
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2011
  18. Awesome build. You guys cause me to stay up til o'dark-thirty every damn night looking at all the excellent fabrication, welding, and craftsmanship! Always get a new Idea to incorporate into my own stuff sooner or later!

    SFSS, you do excellent work. I am impressed!

    James
     
  19. HotRodMicky
    Joined: Oct 14, 2001
    Posts: 1,768

    HotRodMicky
    Member

    Couldn`t find them in the catalog....Do you have the partnumber?
     
  20. Grommet
    Joined: Oct 24, 2008
    Posts: 532

    Grommet
    Member
    from South GA

    GREAT looking truck

    Grommet
     
  21. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

  22. Iron Crank
    Joined: Jun 23, 2010
    Posts: 65

    Iron Crank
    Member

    The ball studs from Speedway did not work on the top of the links, and they did not have a tapered shaft that matched the stock friction shock arm. For the shock arm end of the dog bones we bought stock shock links, with captured ball studs, from Bob Drake's, and cut the link from around the ball studs. When I have a minute I'll find the part number.
     
  23. Iron Crank
    Joined: Jun 23, 2010
    Posts: 65

    Iron Crank
    Member

    Bob Drake sells the friction shock links, that have the captured ball studs with tapered shafts, in three link lengths. Since we cut out the ball studs to use with the Speedway dog bones, and scrapped the rest, the length was not important. The part numbers are 48-18055, 78-18055, and 99A-18055. Cheers.
     
  24. GARY?
    Joined: Aug 15, 2005
    Posts: 1,626

    GARY?
    Member

  25. HotRodMicky
    Joined: Oct 14, 2001
    Posts: 1,768

    HotRodMicky
    Member

    Thanks for the Info.
    Chris PMed me he got his from Speedway.
    I built them by my own in the past, but for $5 i will buy them in the future
    Michael
     
  26. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    Ive been working for the past week on the gas tank/rear of the car.

    We decided that the back of the cab cut across straight looked unfinished. So I suggested that I build the gas tank to finish off the rear of the cab. That way when its painted it all flows.

    So I first figured out if I carried the radius from the sides around to the back what the depth of the tank would be. Then with that figured out I figured the overall length from the end of both curves and that gave me the length across.

    The tank is made out of 1/8" aluminum sheet. I modified an existing sending unit so that it had full swing from top to bottom. Then I had to make an aluminum plate that had threaded holes to mount the sending unit on. I also had to make aluminum bungs for the gas cap, and the pickup and return lines. The pickup bung has an aluminum tube that runs from the top to a little bit off of the bottom. That way its not picking up all the junk that settles at the bottom. Once completely welded I pressure tested to see if there were any leaks in my welds. And to my surprise there weren't any. I really tried to be careful on the starts and stops of the welds to make sure they overlapped the previous weld.

    Next was mounting it onto the car. I made some angle out of aluminum and took some 3"x 3/16" plate that I tapped and mounted from the back side. Then I took some tubing and welded it to the inside of the cab on the braces. Next I machined some 1" round stock to have a 5/8" hole. And I used that as a sleeve that gets welded in so that there is nothing for the bolt to crush. Then I welded on nuts on those pieces of plate. So now you just through the bolts from the inside of the cab and that holds it all in place. I'll safety wire the bolt heads so that they cant come loose.

    Next is to make the corners that transition into the cab.



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  27. GaryB
    Joined: Dec 19, 2008
    Posts: 3,529

    GaryB
    Member
    from Reno,nv

    looks good,how much does it hold?
     
  28. linkstar69
    Joined: Jul 24, 2008
    Posts: 88

    linkstar69
    Member

    How are you going to approach the transition corners on the rear of the cab, will they be caps only or run the entire height of the cab?
    Great idea with the tank btw given space is a premium on these cars
     
  29. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    It will hold 12.5 gallons. A lot more than I thought it would, kind of deceiving cause it looks small.
     
  30. Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 1,474

    Salt Flats Speed Shop
    Member
    from Utah

    The corners will be full length from top to bottom, completely welded on and ground smooth to make it appear as though its all one piece across the entire back. That way when its painted all you see is the seam across the top and sides, and the two pieces on top.
     

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