Update Wheels arrived in great shape, only concern is the 7.50 16 squeezed onto a 16x4 rim lol Other big concern is it looks like when drained the rad there was a major amount of oil in it...more then a little worried. Body is primed, thinking of going with oxide red Still lots to do and my work schedule is eating up anytime with the car..fingers crossed there is no major engine issues
Is it oil or just sludge that acumulated over time. Was there alot of oil floating in the coolant when you drained it?
Yes, thick with it, but I checked the dip stick to see if I had coolant in the oil and it looks clear. I don't know when this engine was apart if ever so it could be as you say...I hope it was running like a top when I got it. So much work to do...running out of time
If your lucky the last guy to drain the rad probably use the same pan to do his oil change and din't do a good job cleaning it! Just trying to be positive!
Sooooooooo its been awhile since I have updated and as always when that happens its normally bad news. Just been informed we have to be out of the house we are renting by end of June so all work has come to a stop until we have a new place to live..do not think we will be able to get her on the road this summer now..crap
I used a sealer system on a motorcycle I used to have. It was an acid cleaner, acid etcher, and the a white coating. Never had any issues after I used it. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I've had tanks boiled out at radiator shops, then used the Eastwood sealer. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Get some of the por-15 sealer its way better than the Kareem brand or so I hear. I always just use the acid from Kreem but the sealer peels sometimes. Or get concrete cleaning acid from hardware store and your tank w it.over night. I've had good results with that also Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
UPDATE Sooo found a place to live and have been packing for the last 2 weeks amazing how much crap you can accumulate Ina year and a half. Found a storage unit for tools and the truck, but it's tight lol. The body is off the frame and the underneath of the cab blasted and ready for prime and paint, frame is being cleaned up and painted, engine is out and being blasted. All of this is being done by a friend in exchange for the 21's that came on the truck originally. Timing worked out as he is doing this while I move, once he is done we will paint the frame and put the body back on, engine and start getting everything back in place. The gas tank is way to rusted for any quick fix, and my time line before July 10 is running out, I am going to have to run a tank in the back of the truck bed with a 6 volt fuel pump to the stromberg....any suggestions on how to do this and keep it old school. I know speedway has a bunch of cylinder tanks but wanted to keep it traditional. Any suggestions are welcome. So what's left Finish painting cab Change king pins on the front axel (haven't found anyone with the tool for this) Finish the windshield post (2inch chop) Get a tank for the bed, secure it, install fuel pump and lines Stromberg small logo being reconditioned as we speak Install single intake Install reds headers And 4 weeks to do it..wish me luck
Wheel bearings in the front axle are really loose, look to be in good shape not sure why they are so loose, suggestions?
Looking for advice, As you can see below the frame is off for blasting, it's in excellent shape minus the crack in the front engine support. The new issue is the front end, looks like it will need complete rebuild, bearing loose, king pins need to be replaced, bushings etc etc. Should I just replace the whole thing and go to juice brakes earlier then expected! And if so is there a complete set up I can get somewhere?
Want to keep the banjo what are my options for changing it over to juice brakes, need to save money..so would want to use same spindles etc Really hit a wall here, looking at honest Charley's complete front end but not sure if I can use the original steering, and the wire wheels I have already
Search for model a brake conversion. There is a lot of info out there. You will have to get the correct spacer kit to fit the hydraulic backing plates in the front. It is very inexpensive. Then you have to fill and redrill holes in backing plates. And from what I can tell you rotate the rear ones a little to get clearance. Clings has a kit for the master cylinder as well as a.complete kit I think. I have been researching doing this myself.
I only had the pick up for ten mins before tearing her down, started her pulled into the garage let her run and that's it. The person I bought it from said it run well, the transporters said it run like a top, even though it took them 24 hrs to figure out how to start it, and they may have done damage while they tried to start it, it's was flooded badely. I did notice when I had it running that when I pushed the accelerator that the engine shook badly, I thought I just put my foot down to heavy.. Thoughts? The reason I ask is I have it out right now while the frame and body is blasted..and I know I won't have her done this summer so maybe I should take it in and get the engine thoroughly gone through. Any advice is appreciated
You're not going to be on the road this summer so look on the positive side of it. You have plenty of time to finish it properly. Like it so far though.
Found front and back juice brakes, now wondering what will work with the stock clutch set up? I do not want the battery hanging underneath I have seen the Snyder battery master set up
The Jalopy Journal
