Projects 1928 Model A Tudor Build

Next up is exhaust and driveshaft. I know I could do this on a hoist, but I like to contain metal fabrication to this area of the shop, so I went with the 2x4 stacks. Got me 10" off the ground, and now plenty of room to work.



I'm going to have DriveshaftShop.com build me a custom shaft, I've used them before and their prices are very reasonable, especially for one this short and simple.

I'm thinking the exhaust is going to have to go under the Axle, since there really isn't room to go over with the ladder bars and shocks where they are. I'll share pics of some test fitment later today or tomorrow.

~Peter

 

Picked up a pair of the Shorty 2" Porter Mufflers, forgot to use the alliance discount, I don't mind supporting good folks though.

Then it was on to getting the exhaust as high as possible without infringing on floor pans.



I don't have a exhaust tubing mandrel bender, and all my exhaust pipes had either 45° or 90° angles, so in order to get the angles I needed I had to do some pie cuts and weld them up.



^The lowest point is that forward edge of the mufflers, and it's 7.75" off the ground at ride height, which I'm sure is far more than most hot rods out there. I'm not too worried about ground clearance.

Now for the tricky transition over the axle.

~Peter

 

Awesome build!

Here's some inspiration.

 

I went over the axle after all:


I'd like to do a transition to straight out the back like Gary posted, but that would make the rear section too long to wiggle out without dropping the rear axle or raising the body. So for now it will remain with the hidden turndowns.

I then got it all installed on the run stand:


Of course, I got y'all a video:


The audio is really close in the video vs real life. It's a similar to most of the 50's Mopars I work on in decibel levels. Much deeper and richer tones than some 1949-50 Ford flatheads I've worked on, but I imagine that's due to the 2" pipe and Porter Mufflers since all those other Fords got Smitty Mufflers.

~Peter

 

Sounds good! Porters do have a sound of their own for sure

 

Finally back on the A, got some studs welded in the grill shell for mounting the inner screen:


Then got brackets fabricated for the shell to bolt to the radiator:


I'll build some better looking spacer plates for the upper mounts when this comes apart for paint. For now I'm using roll-pins...

And just to prove that it's an optical illusion, the grill shell IS over 1" lower than the cowl:


Then I moved to spot welding in the Brookville upper firewall to their smooth cowl top. This allows me to slide it in from the front and bolt into the factory lip of the cowl side panels under the dash.


^I'm going to fix that overhang of the cowl, I guess Brookville supplies them long just in case. And I'm very happy with the alignment of the new panel to that stock vertical line shown above, it's plenty for a mid-50's style hot rod!

Then finally got the exhaust system re-installed so I can continue with the floor fabrication:


When I finish-welded the driver's rear section, it warped slightly towards the centerline, so I may end up slicing a relief cut into the tailpipe and get it back square again. It's all hidden from view at ride-height, but I figure now is the time to get it right!

I'm working on some plans for this car that are slightly unconventional, and when I know more I'll share them here. Definitely excited to get this thing on the road this year! Gonna be a thrash but I can't wait!

~Peter

 

Looking good thanks for the update

 

Got the fuel tank mounted. The lower mounts bolt to the floor structure and can be removed entirely, aiding in ease of access and install.


I'll tweak things a bit when I'm running fuel lines and I have lot of room to tighten the straps down and get everything exactly where I want it.

This will all be hidden anyways, but I think I'm going to paint the tank OD army green and stencil on some hydraulic oil markings or something about tank-usage only... Just to add to the scrounging 50's vibe.
~Peter

 

Installed the 39 Chevrolet Taillights:


Really amazed at how well the curvature matched the body, required no metalwork at all to get bolted on and clocked at the right angle. Hopefully once everything is painted one color they'll just vanish and appear stock.


Then got everything stripped out of the interior so I can media-blast the body at last. I need to get into all the nooks and crannies, and since tomorrow is looking to be a calm day (finally!), I'll be lifting off the body and taking it outside for the cleaning. Not sure how far I'll take it, but for sure all the interior panels and lower areas where the floor needs filling.


~Peter

 

Oh yeah, she's titled & licensed now, and as the correct year too!


~Peter

 

nice lights and placement too. i feel having the light s far apart gives you more presence on the road at night .fit led s too c

 

Those tail lights look great, they fit the body perfectly. Will they get painted body colour?

 

Started out by getting it up on sawhorses and media blasting the rockers and underside:


Only ran into one problem area, the Passenger door had previous damage that was hammered back and then skimmed with 1/4" of filler across the entire door:



80grit flap disc took it all off without issues.

Then media blasted until I ran out of daylight. Here's 370lbs of Coal Slag later:


As you can see, the damage doesn't really seem that bad once you get all that bondo off! Couple of areas I need to shrink to get rid of some beer-canning, and some hammer/dolly time for the rest of the bumps.



Only other small area is that Passenger rear that also has been previously repaired. That's a bit more manageable and easier to hide vs a doorskin.

So it sits in disarray for tonight until I get back on it tomorrow:


~Peter

 

Longer delay than I would've liked getting back to the A. Had to finish up some upholstery work on another car and then got sick for 6 days.



Should be getting back on it by Thursday. Got a couple days cleared out in my schedule for more metal work on this thing!

Thanks for all the support and suggestions, it's great having the HAMB behind me!

~Peter

 

Thanks for keeping us in the loop. It's contribution's that keep the HAMB wheel's turning!

 

That door skin is crazy but not unusual. Pretty normal for a "restored" Model A. We ran across more than one like that at the shop. Many of these were built by those old Model A fogies that used to bitch about hot rodders "wrecking" Model A's!!!!
I have seen "repairs" done with galvanized tin, window screen, socks, spray foam and of course lots of old pink crappy Bondo. The stuff you could buy at Kmart in the Auto Dept.

 

Let me start by saying, I know this is gonna rub some the wrong way, and while I appreciate constructive input, if you have a problem, then just close the page and find something else.


So I decided to chop the top off.


Let me start with my rational:
1: I felt it was ridiculous to spend countless hours of my time bodyworking, woodworking, and upholstering the stock roof of this car, only to be left with something that was still noisy, drafty, and rattle-prone. If I'm going to have an open car experience, why not have an open car experience?
2: There was significant damage done in previous impacts to the roof that cracked and twisted many of the upper panels and structures that were giving me headaches trying to get things aligned and fitting the way I wanted.
3: When I looked everywhere online, I only found 10-12 1928-29 Tudor Phaeton conversions, which makes this car that much more unique and special. They only built 4dr Phaetons in 1928, so once this is completed, I'll be left with a car that will standout at any show, no matter how many Tudor sedans are in attendance.
4: I hated the bulbous width of the Tudor sedan body. I was considering doing a vertical sectioning of the whole thing, to try and lean in the rear quarters more, but that's crazy for what this build is meant to be.


So I spent a lot of time browsing the internet, drawing up plans, ordering parts, and then just sitting in the shop staring at things for the past few weeks thinking it over.




I knew what needed to be done, and I've planned out how to avoid some of the common pitfalls and areas of conflict.



Rather than use the original A pillar metal like some, I opted to remove and replace with 3/16 steel plate, and these are now the new A pillar bases. I then bolted on new 2" chopped windshield posts, and had to do some initial fitment to get them to look right on the closed car cowl.


Much more work to be done for sure, but luckily they're stainless and easy to work with compared to alloys.



As you can see, the A pillar posts end up being much wider than the roadster windshield frame, so the frame needs to be widened to match:


The frame is still 2" short so I need to decide if I'm going to be chopping the posts more, of lengthening the frame itself.


Quite a bit of work to do making the new door tops, and making them look like factory ford pieces.




The rear quarter-panel beltline is always a problem on these conversions. Most leave it, but I'm going to cut out "dip" and run the horizontal beltline flat all the way around to the rear. Following the green tape line seen here^. This will mimic the same area on a 4dr Phaeton.

I chose to cut it above that major beltline because it allows me to retain stock door locks and keep most of the door and quarterpanel structure. Also, I'm not a fan of the lines on 4drs (like seen above^) where the seat back is higher than the quarter panel. This still could change, and that's why I opted to start high and I can always bring it down to mimic the normal phaeton lines.



I love it, to hell with the critics, it makes the car look lighter, slimmer, and faster. It also has the added benefit of making for less final paintwork and allows me to spend more time making the virgin lower sheetmetal fit and look perfect.

So yeah, definitely gonna catch some initial flak, but that's life in the hotseat.

 

WOW. Quite a change in direction! Good on 'ya for the vision!!!

 

Love it!

-Your windshield posts & plan for the rear beltline will keep it from looking like a hack-job.
-You can sell the windshield & roof / sail panel assembly to another hotrodder who really needs 'em.
-What about the doors/ glass/ garnish mouldings?

 

Well! That was a surprise, but......It’s yours and you have great skills and imagination.
I like it ( if that’s worth saying) and look forward to more cool stuff from you.

 

I love sedans. But the Phaeton idea is super cool. Good luck.

 

Shocker! pardun the pun. Kinda like when Bruce decided he liked being a girl.

Looks like you will make it awesome tho!

 

I like that tonneau cover and the pinstripes. I see the appeal.

 

I like it, but would prefer a lower windshield like that 513 car. You do want that wind in your hair experience, right?

 

When I saw post 254, I wondered if something was up. The journey continues…

 

Yeah, windshield posts are getting an additional 2" haircut.

 

Curious to see how you pull it off!

 

Mine sat upside down and the roof was really rusty so we gave it a hair cut also. Here is some smaller pictures how the windshield was done. Hope this helps you, sorry for all the dust but Lubbock blew thru here the other day and have not had time to clean it up. Frank

 

I dig it, no worries here. This is not the AACA, its the HAMB, we cut stuff up.

 

1928 MODEL A TUB BUILD