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Projects 1928 Model A 2 dr Phaeton Build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by caprockfabshop, Aug 17, 2022.

  1. Stu
    Joined: Mar 5, 2001
    Posts: 1,057

    Stu
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Right there with you
     

    Attached Files:

    Stogy likes this.
  2. 05snopro440
    Joined: Mar 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,585

    05snopro440
    Member

    Cool change of direction! I dig it. A friend of mine built his 29 Tudor into a tub. It got a lot of attention while we were travelling. He had a full top and side curtains, and 4 bucket seats.

    The chop of yours looked great to me before cutting the roof off but if you weren't happy, now's the time to change it!

    I always thought the attached one had such a cool roof line for a Phaeton (ignore the street roddy bits). Saw it for sale in Puyallup in 2015.

    I'm going a different direction building the front half of a Phaeton into a RPU.
     

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    Last edited: Mar 17, 2023
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  3. caprockfabshop
    Joined: Dec 5, 2019
    Posts: 569

    caprockfabshop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    :rolleyes: but it still has Tu Dors! Yeah, thread title might get changed as this moves along.

    ~Peter
     
  4. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,426

    Outback
    Member
    from NE Vic

    TUBOR?? :D HAHAHAHA
     
  5. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,702

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    I put a panel on the back and access the gas tank by flipping the rear seat forward, I forgot what I got the rear seats out of GEO Metro and Don't remember weather the fronts came out of it also or a Ford Van IMG_6023.jpeg IMG_6022.jpeg
     
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  6. caprockfabshop
    Joined: Dec 5, 2019
    Posts: 569

    caprockfabshop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks for the link! That one still looks good even decades after it was built. Just about as "timeless" as a 90's build can get! I like the idea of the roll over upholstery, which was fairly common among 20's touring cars. I got a pretty solid plan for the beltline and doors that I'm excited to implement here in the next week or so, should solve a bunch of issues all at once. ;)
     
    Tman and Just Gary like this.
  7. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,702

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    Lee and the Greek are good friends of mine, Lee is also a USAC Sprint Champion several times. Lee and the Greek built many fine race cars and hot rods together.Here is a picture of Lee in the earlier days. I watched him race against Jan Opperman [the original Outlaw] at Terra Haute at a WORLD OF OUTLAW race Jan won. Now you know how my car came to be. Frank
    IMG_1114.JPG
     
  8. caprockfabshop
    Joined: Dec 5, 2019
    Posts: 569

    caprockfabshop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    So here's step one in getting the new body line capped off. Since the original lock assembly is rather wide, it's impossible to keep the factory latch mechanism and also slim up the door thickness to fill in the gap where the window used to be.

    But then I realized I could just lower the latch mechanism down closer to the door dovetail snubber, and this would not only move that thick mechanism down and out of sight, but would also allow for a more centralized latch location, since the door is now much shorter.

    So I moved the entire inner door structure down 5"
    PXL_20230320_175959328.jpg PXL_20230320_180007667.jpg PXL_20230320_180012311.jpg PXL_20230320_181151719.jpg PXL_20230320_185234445.jpg

    And then moved the catch assembly on the B pillar down as well:
    PXL_20230320_185247019.jpg
    PXL_20230320_192551992.jpg



    Door gap didn't change at all, so still pretty happy with that at the moment.
    PXL_20230320_192606581.jpg PXL_20230320_192612887.jpg

    So the plan is to do a 1.75" wide upper rail, instead of the 2.375" that it would've been otherwise. Then have the inner door panel taper in to the original Model A structure that I moved down. Maybe it's hard to imagine, but I got it all up in my head. :rolleyes:

    PXL_20230320_193629381.jpg

    So the exterior door handle holes will be filled in and I'll just run the Original Ford inside door pulls. Since this is a roadster, the security literally went out the window, and a battery isolator and kill switches will be more than enough anti-theft prevention.

    So that's one door modified, I'm gonna be on the road for the rest of the week, but I'll get the driver's side matching and then I'll start on that new upper body rail.
     
    shortypu, Bugguts, Tim and 6 others like this.
  9. Everybody I know that has had an old car stolen it was hauled away, not driven, and always at a hotel while attending an event. Add a hidden GPS locator for peace of mind.
     
  10. A Boner
    Joined: Dec 25, 2004
    Posts: 7,444

    A Boner
    Member

    Here’s a pic for inspiration!
    EAECD0CB-AA44-4936-8A20-397E6887BC71.png
     
    Donut Dave, shortypu, 2Blue2 and 5 others like this.
  11. caprockfabshop
    Joined: Dec 5, 2019
    Posts: 569

    caprockfabshop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Finally back from my trip and got in some more time on the Tub.

    I got 1.5" square tubing with .120 wall to use for the upper body edge all the way around. Obviously, these bodies aren't straight anywhere, so there will be a lot of pie cuts and tweaking as it wraps it's way around, but that's why I chose the thicker wall.
    PXL_20230324_201112246.jpg PXL_20230324_201118686.jpg

    You can see in that pic especially^ that the upper door is beginning to look more similar to a Roadster:
    800px-1928_Ford_Model_A_roadster_hot_rod_(12404859254).jpg

    Thicker, but not as thick and unsightly as the original door uppers.

    I'm still workshopping a few ideas for an arc to transition to the dash:
    PXL_20230324_201139023.jpg PXL_20230324_201136887.jpg

    I'll tidy up the A pillar areas once I have that transition worked out. In the meantime, moving on to the passenger rear upper body piece. I decided to do all my R&D on the passenger side, and then apply what I learned to the driver's side where I'll be spending more of my ownership.

    PXL_20230324_201149174.jpg
    More to come, just wanted to throw an update on here.
     
  12. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,426

    Outback
    Member
    from NE Vic

    Looking good mate!
     
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  13. ModelAMitch
    Joined: Jul 8, 2022
    Posts: 170

    ModelAMitch
    Member

    Looks great, what are you planning on doing for the inside of the door?
     
  14. caprockfabshop
    Joined: Dec 5, 2019
    Posts: 569

    caprockfabshop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Gonna be a door panel transition from the new upper rail down to the wider existing inner door structure. Still a few details to decide. Then the plan is either upholstered door panels or just paint the completed structure.
     
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  15. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,702

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    Here is a couple shots of one Tudor for Inspiration IMG_5833.JPG IMG_4109.JPG
     
  16. caprockfabshop
    Joined: Dec 5, 2019
    Posts: 569

    caprockfabshop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Wound up getting called to do another 1500miles roadtrip this week. So just now getting back on this. Getting the 1.5" tubing pie cut and bent to match the new body-lines.
    PXL_20230401_194625795.jpg PXL_20230401_194630860.jpg
    In that pic^ you can see how the body actually wants to spread out and away from the tubing in the corner, that's because the roof on a Tudor is wider than the beltline. I'll be reversing that and the body will actually transition inward to the new tubing.
    PXL_20230401_194735729.jpg

    There will be some creativity involved to bridge the gap between the two pieces of tubing and also tie in that factory body welting between the two panels.
    PXL_20230402_183950776.jpg

    The rear piece is pie cut both up and down but also fore-aft to get the Phaeton style arching rear.
    PXL_20230402_184004864.jpg

    Got my cut area marked, now time to slice it out and start metal shaping a new piece.

    PXL_20230402_184620799.jpg PXL_20230402_184625897.jpg
    PXL_20230402_184633368.jpg PXL_20230402_184640401.jpg
    PXL_20230402_184628913.jpg

    ^There you can get an idea of how the body lines are going to flow. The lower is the stock Ford and the upper will follow it back and then flow up into the upper corner area.
     
  17. caprockfabshop
    Joined: Dec 5, 2019
    Posts: 569

    caprockfabshop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Borrowed a buddy's bead roller to get the majority of the new panel worked out.
    PXL_20230403_235236081.jpg PXL_20230403_235241746.jpg PXL_20230403_235246766.jpg PXL_20230403_235250982.jpg

    Not my first rodeo, but definitely learning everyday! The upper portion is 85% there, still some low spots to cleanup, but I was able to do it all in one patch panel.

    PXL_20230403_235304821.jpg

    You can see here ^ how the new panel sticks out further from the old metal, I'm going to do some relief cuts to shrink the upper piece in and transition smoothly into the old metal.
    PXL_20230403_235346855.jpg
    Like this:

    PXL_20230403_235311196.jpg PXL_20230403_235315112.jpg

    Overall I'm very happy with how it's flowing and the body is starting to really get rigid with that .120 wall tubing around the perimeter. I still need to tie it into the B pillar and there's an old brace in the C pillar area that I'm going to tie into as well. Curious if I can get away without a brace behind the front seats....
     
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  18. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,426

    Outback
    Member
    from NE Vic

    It will be interesting to see how you go with the B pillars. What did the factory 2 door touring/phaenton's use there? I have seen a cast angle bracket on the B pillars of a 4 door touring out here once...
     
    High test 63 likes this.
  19. caprockfabshop
    Joined: Dec 5, 2019
    Posts: 569

    caprockfabshop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Well, on the 1931 Model A 2dr Phaetons, they had no visible braces that I can see. But that body is much stiffer and more complex than the 1928. So that's my rational behind the thicker tubing, trying to do something like this:
    1931-ford-model-a-deluxe-2dr-phaeton (1).jpg 1931-ford-model-a-deluxe-2dr-phaeton.jpg
     
  20. Dedsoto
    Joined: Jan 7, 2014
    Posts: 321

    Dedsoto
    Member
    from Australia
    1. Aussie HAMBers

    You can see the cast B braces (grey primered) in this fuzzy photo of a 29 tourer I picked up, I can get some better pics if you'd like. I don't think you'll need something so substantial as you're not swinging rear doors of it.

    IMG_2838.jpg
     
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  21. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,426

    Outback
    Member
    from NE Vic

    That's the ones I was thinking of. The 'Clunk' of the front door closing on the pillar would be substantial though, depending on how the door shuts, (very well in this case I expect ;) ) & how heavy handed the passenger's are...
     
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  22. caprockfabshop
    Joined: Dec 5, 2019
    Posts: 569

    caprockfabshop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Finished up the majority of the passenger side metalwork. Epoxy primed in the meantime, until I get to overall bodywork and paint prep.

    Here's how those relief cuts worked:
    PXL_20230409_152436333.jpg

    And outside for primer, 70°+ today here in Lubbock.
    PXL_20230409_180948570.jpg PXL_20230409_181013413.jpg PXL_20230409_181108257.jpg
    Now to make the driver's side match...
    PXL_20230409_181914629.jpg PXL_20230409_181933826.jpg
     
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  23. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,426

    Outback
    Member
    from NE Vic

    It's looking good, That line flows so much better!
     
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  24. 1-SHOT
    Joined: Sep 23, 2014
    Posts: 2,702

    1-SHOT
    Member
    from Denton

    Looking good you are getting there.
     
    caprockfabshop likes this.
  25. wstory
    Joined: Jul 4, 2008
    Posts: 1,727

    wstory
    Member
    from So Calif

    Was recently linked to this threat by friend 40ply who's morphing a 4 door into a 2 door tub. At times I've imagined turning my 31 Tudor into a tub because of the daunting prospect of recovering a hacked chop job. However, that decision is a long way off as I'm challenged to make progress on my most ambitious build to date.
    Thanks for sharing, I'll continue to watch and learn.
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2023
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  26. caprockfabshop
    Joined: Dec 5, 2019
    Posts: 569

    caprockfabshop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Thanks for the works of encouragement; very little progress over the last few weeks as other jobs got priority, but I should be getting the driver's side done here as soon as next week. Then on to interior & floor panels.
     
    Just Gary likes this.
  27. TERPU
    Joined: Jan 2, 2004
    Posts: 2,374

    TERPU
    Member

    Looks Great and Love the Project! But get you some Roadster Cowl pieces to get rid of that C'Dan transition and then narrow the Doors to fit, Jambs too. This will be a step above just whacking off the roof of a Tudor C'Dan.

    OR if you like the look currently then tell me to go pound sand. Either way It's going to be one fun hair mess 'er upper. I'm following the build and encourage you to keep up the good stuff.

    - Tim
     
    Retson the Racer likes this.
  28. jonboy1
    Joined: Sep 19, 2013
    Posts: 30

    jonboy1
    Member

    Great build so far!
     
  29. caprockfabshop
    Joined: Dec 5, 2019
    Posts: 569

    caprockfabshop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    It's been a tough few months. Pulled in all directions on many projects, trips, crisis, etc... All the while this car is just eating away at my mind. Finally got time last week to get some more work done.

    Despite the stainless Windshield Posts being made with 2" chopped out already, I found that I needed another 2" removed.
    PXL_20230624_163836672.jpg
    PXL_20230624_182831537.jpg
    PXL_20230624_182836074.jpg

    Of course I also realized that my initial work on the windshield frame was flawed, so then I had to start re-doing that:
    PXL_20230702_223844588.jpg

    This is a widened but stock height 28-29 frame, and the arc of the cowl is different as well, which required multiple tweaks.

    PXL_20230625_212120612.jpg PXL_20230625_212107553.jpg

    Got a much better windshield height and angle now. Really loving the profile view!

    I'm scrambling trying to find time to keep chipping away at the Phaeton, but after putting in a 8-12hr day on other cars and projects, it's hard to find the energy. Hoping to have more routine updates here in the coming weeks.
     
    shortypu, lurker mick, brEad and 5 others like this.

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