Thanks for that link, it was really helpful! I'll probably use "just Gary"'s method which led me to his build thread. So much good stuff here"!!
Awesome! Great clean up man. I'd say drop the front axle and maybe a smaller front tire before I'd mess with the backs. I bet bringing down the nose puts it just right. I vote no to a chop that car look great just needs the front down a bit. Care to show how you made the new tail light mounts and how you reinforced the firewall for the brake master on the firewall?
Good score... Ford in a Ford, the way God and Henry intended it... looka like your C4 was bolted to a 289 ... most mid-'65 and older were bolted to a 2 speed fordomatic or a standard tranny... mid '65 and newer used a different bellhousing bolt pattern... C4, C6, FMX, AOD all bolt to the later BP... sounds like that is a late '65, '66, '67 or a leftover 289 in '68... Ford part #s start with a letter then a digit... [ c = '60's, d = '70's.the next digit is the year of that decade][C 6 ='66][D 0 ='70] pre '70 SBFs dumped the lower water pump hose to the passenger's side, '70 and newer dump on the driver's side... ..... love the pix !
The plan is to drop the front end at some point. I keep getting stuck doing one thing because of something else. I modified the original tail light brackets by shortening them and welding them back together. They looked like these but they weren't right. http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_m...d=28-21225-1&gclid=CPet_d2sxtMCFU-SfgodOBMMIg The firewall was already reinforced when I got it. They didnt do the neatest job but it was functional so I cleaned it up with some fiberglass because they didnt attach it to the sides and air was coming through. I didnt want to weld either it in case it ever needed to come apart.
Its a 66 289 and I think it has a green dot C4. I have to install my kickdown to see if I am right. I switched out the timing cover to a 302 and put a 302 water pump on it because the hose was on the wrong side and they had tubing with a couple hoses to reroute it to the other side. It made more sense since I pulled the motor to reseal it to just switch it out.
Removed and rebuilt the seat frame, fixed the springs over the weekend and dropped off the seats at the auto upholster today. I left him a front seat and said match it. We will see how well he does. I said to make sure he removes all foam, cotton, or whatever is on there and replace it. It smells. I think the bottom was original cotton on it.
Well got the seat back. Turned out pretty good. So what should I do next? Lower the front or put the sliding ragtop on it?
Drive it! It may be reversed in AZ (to hot to drive in the summer), but up here in New England big projects are for the winter, when most old cars are hibernating. The black interior looks 100 times better than what was there. I may have bad taste, (I often wear leisure suits, white dress shoes and a K-Mart toupee) but I like it the way it is, so I would tackle the sun roof and drive the wheels off. Myself, I'm tired of all the mega-chopped Tudors on the ground with no back seat in mags. Question: Do you think the electric fan is for clearance or performance?
I saw Slam that bad boy, throw some 7.50X16 in the rear and some 5.50X16 in the Front and Drive the hell outta it. Do the sliding rag top over the Winter. Beautiful car.
It is reversed in AZ. Its great to drive about 9 months out of the year and hot as hell during the summer. It doesn't have AC yet. I did the electric fan for a few reason. When I changed the water pump with a 302 water pump the fan was hitting the bottom frame. I could have ground it off but I also did it for safety. I have a 6 and 4 year old boys and with the motor being open I didn't want them to get too curious even though I warned them about it. So I opted for that. I did end up getting Magnaflow mufflers put on it today. It sounds so much better. Thats the farthest I have driven it so far.
Great family car. You've put a lot of work into it, great job. I lived in LA CA for a long time, and I thought it was hot there, until I visited some friends in AZ in the summer....holy crap!
Well after driving it some and noticing the front end has quite a bit of play in the steering box and one of the bearing on the spindle to axle needs to be replaced since it has a lot of movement. Looks the front end will be next. Also looking to do some rear shocks. Anyone have an ideas on what shocks are short enough to use in the back? I can weld up whatever I need for brackets. Basically need like 12" shocks.
Change of plans. After driving it last week I noticed a miss while cruising. Thought it might be something in the carb and revved the motor at the light. Next thing you know rod knock. I babied it home 10 miles. Guess I will be working on pulling the motor next. It came with the car and I didn't know the condition but will be getting it rebuilt here shortly.
been running SBFs for years... is it a knock or a loud tick... have ran engines that sat for years... one had a sticking lifter that was noisy. section of heater hose as a stethoscope should determine where the noise is coming from... best of luck...
Yeah...I guess you never know. I have put motors in from other things and they have ran for years as well. I have a guy lined up to do the rebuild. Hopefully I will be dropping the motor off to him on Sunday. I have it about half way pulled out. On the plus side my dad picked up a 24 t bucket Pretty fun to drive. Very similiar setup as the Tudor. 289/C4. 289 C.I 1966 Mustang engine C4 transmission 1985 Mustang 8.8 Ford 10 bold rear end Front end (new drum brake master cylinder and front disc brake conversion kit) Steering arms, front radius rods Model A shortened 2" front spring for ride Speedway Motors front head light Honda motorcycle front signal lights 16" glass packs w/header exhaust Pete & Jake front shocks SoCal steering stabilizer rear end suspension (Model A spring, Mustang shocks) 15" 5x5 ½ after market retro front wheels 15" 5x4 ½ after market retro rear wheels Griffin 8 gallon fuel cell 1965 Mustang/Ranchero master brake cylinder under driver's side of seat under board 1950 Pontiac (Speedway Motors) tail lights 1927 Ford retro shortened pickup bed SoCal Ford hubcaps with painted letters SoCal high rise "Tall" valve covers
Well picked up a junk yard explorer 5.0 w/gt40p heads for $325. I decided to go this route as it would have been way more expensive to get my motor up to the same specs as a roller motor. Turns out the heads have been rebuilt recently on the explorer motor as well. I am having my engine builder put new rings in the motor, put a mild cam and new springs on the heads. Should put me around 300HP. Hopefully it will be done in the next few weeks.
If was already the way it was when I bought it. Doesn't look like a prefab firewall. Someone welded some metal in at an angle. If you check page 1 of my posts there is a pretty good picture. It has plenty of leg room since I added new seats that are adjustable.
Very tasty ride. Always have liked resto-rods. Have a sweet spot for '28-'29 Fords in general and depending on the build, two doors. No chopping that one, or you will loose the old timey flavor that by comparison to the same as ever'body else bars of soap is irreplaceable. Good on you.
Thanks!!! Yeah I like it unchopped. I eventually plan on doing old school paint with 2 tone pewter gray with black fenders. I am going to do a sliding roof though.
Oooooo...I remember when I had a sbf.....good times! Love how they rev up so quickly. And they sound awesome. You did a great job with this car. Thanks for the video. So, what's left to do on it?
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