1928 Chevy Sratch Built Frame

Here the built up pictures of my first early hot rod frame.Its for a friend of mine (customer). Its based off a 32 chevy frame. I did a 6" kick-up (or Z) up frame and followed the same frame sweep out back and added a notch to the rails. Ford tube axle and leaf spring with model a crossmember and hairpins up front, 36 ford radius rods (shortened) out back with coilovers and panhard bar out back, all tabs and mounts i made.

Heres the pictures.....

The start to the rear sweep...




Rear jig'd up...




Front Jig'd up...




Frame transition...




Front rails tappered with frame horns...








Rear speed holed crossmember...

 

Front end all setup and done...





Motor and tranny mounts...






Now on to the rear. Notch and radius rod install...









Now the PanHard and coilovers...

 

All welded up...







All done and being picked up....







Thanks for looking, hope you all like it.

Justin

 

Nice fab work!...really clean!

 

I am wondering why you have a curved rear section but just a plain ol Z up front?

not being negative just curious.

 

Nice work.
Hope everyone appreciates the work on the tapered front rails!

 

Very cool work. I am wondering how all the cuts and welds will hold up in the rear frame?

 

Thanks

Thats what we talked about, wasnt to sure on the bleed style, so we went this route

thanks, Ya it was fun...lol

thanks. should hold up good i hope, they were V'd and welded fully.

 

That and the other question WHERE IS THE TORQUE ARM?!

 

Cool what body is going on it??

 

looking good. i have just a couple of inexperienced questions, so take em with a grain of salt cause i just dunno...

the rear suspension didnt seem to have a lot of room to travel, is it gonna be ok once its under load and hits a bump?

why the big Z up front and nothing in the rear? it looks like a hiboy front end grafted to a led sled rear. or am i looking at it wrong?

perhaps ive seen so many people over do it, but dont you think there should be more cross support between the frame rails? you have front cross member, rear cross and 1 small trans cross member. i feel like there should be more??

why a tube axle??

 

Im still learning all i can, so can you please explain. you mean a panhard?

Thanks

Justin

 

Thats what he had bought, so thats what i used. this was built for a freind of mine

 

Those bones will break and or fold, search the term "torque arm" here. Dozens of posts. The stock torque tube controlled torque, the bones are only axle locators, you need an arm/arms to resist the torque, ie windup of the rear axle.

 

ok, not trying to get at you or anything, just my lack of experience talking. great work btw, your welds are very thorough

 

Ok thanks man. ill have to make one then.

Hey no problems man, thanks

 

"Here the built up pictures of my first early hot rod frame.Its for a friend of mine (customer). Its based off a 32 chevy frame. I did a 6" kick-up (or Z) up frame and followed the same frame sweep out back and added a notch to the rails. Ford tube axle and leaf spring with model a crossmember and hairpins up front, 36 ford radius rods (shortened) out back with coilovers and panhard bar out back, all tabs and mounts i made."

Your worksmanship is quite nice but I wonder about that rear notch removing 75% or so of the rail and the suspension being behind the notch.
You might take a close look at the scrubline both front and particularly rear.
So you'll know those are NOT 35-36 readius rods out back, more likely 37-41. The 35-36 have a very heavy rear forging which includes the rear spring mounts. You'll surely need some heavy gusset work on those radius rods to survive any tire grabbing the road situation.

Read, learn the parts, watch your scrublines and build some cars.

 

thanks for the info on the radius rod, i was told the were 36's(i didnt know), any more help on these issues would be appercated. As im only 24 and everything ive learn has been by building it, im never ungrateful for constuctive criticism so any help will be taken in.

Thanks Justin

 

Also look atTriangulated upper control arms like a 4 bar would have. Another option to a Torque Arm. Just some thoughts

 

Hey Tman does the torque arm front pivot have to be where the radius rods mount?

 

Torque arm doesnt have to mount with bones, but if it doesnt it has to have a sliding front joint.

I dont like the c notch at all, not enough material left to support much if anything, and with the shocks behind it theres a lot of wieght on whats not there.

I would have put more kick in the frame rails and done away with the notch altogether.

Also needs more bracing in the center of the chassis, you could get by with what you have if you put a heavy set of subrails though.


Not trying to be a douchtard or anything just my observation.

 

You C-notched it way too much.

You mounted the bones total wrong at the front mount.

My english isn`t that good to explain but I`ll try....

Your car won`t roll on the cars axis .

You need a rubber mount or heimjoint at the front of the bones...

And you need a torque arm.

search on the HAMB ...

Michael

 

do away with the stock rear bones(radius rods) and run something similar to what you have on the front. put a panhard bar back there. you are going to have to put plates (longer than where you sliced for the curve) on either side of your c-notch, on both rails for added strength. looks real good though.

 

A reasonable torque arm design:

 

Those inverted shock mount towers on the rear axle might be a good place to mount rear radius rods (smilar to the front hairpins), probably wouldn't need the torque arm then..., weld a reinforcing strap around the top of the rear axle maybe..., nice welding! Wish I could do that!

 

It's my opinion there needs to be some reworking of this rear end system.

As with the others, I don't understand the effort expended to create a nice swept arch over the rear axle only to C-notch it out of existence. Space over the axle wasn't the issue because of the way you installed the coil overs and panhard rod, so I would lop off the rear ahead of the axle and start over with a new rail that will clear the axle without a C-notch.

I didn't see any bushings mounted at the front of those 37-40 rear bones. If you intend on keeping them I would suggest a bung welded into the end and add a HEIM joint. You can strengthen this system by adding an extra rod from the top of your differential housing and extend forward as close to your pivot mount on one or both of the lower links.



To turn this into a true torque arm rear suspension is going to require a major rework of your rear suspension.

Here are a few examples of how I do it.

The current Model A sedan we are working on



Ignore the crude Z as it was done by the owner, we just did the suspension. But otherwise this is a 1926 T-Coupe



Wild little 1928 A pickup we did a few years ago



1947 International Harvester 1 ton Panel truck



A truck we did for the Dynacorn Corporation, Dana 60



A custom built 1955 Chevy frame with a Dana 60 and a Watts link




You get the point. If you want to seem more, click the link http://s206.photobucket.com/home/ELpolacko/allalbums

 

The body going on the frame is a 1928 Chevy coupe with a 6" chop. I'll work on getting pics up soon.

 

Probably don't have a floor in it being a Chevy, shouldn't be a problem to set the body on the chassis and mock up the desired ride height and then add about 5" of clearance over the axle for the frame rails.

 

(bookmarks) Very nicely done! This is what i'd like to do for my car over the summer, if you don't mind where did you get the frame horns and front end setup from?

 

I must say your skill level is up there but like what has already been said.There are some issues that need to be addressed. I can tell by your work that you take pride in what you do.