That is very cool and impressive way to go Jim! Joe Sent from my SM-G900V using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
View attachment 3271607 Here is a couple pics of the '30 axle I have. If you can't straighten the one you have maybe you can use a later one.
Congrats on getting it running! Now, find yourself a Tillotson X and wake that puppy UP! Herb (ebtm3) told me when we first met that the stock '28 Chevrolet carb is only good for running a tractor or making someone who is doing a restoration very happy ( the RAKX-o's are rare and expensive). This Tillotson X is on ebay right now and is a good price: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tillotson-m...ash=item1c6a6f2db8:g:UhcAAOSwzLlXhppj&vxp=mtr
I was thinking today about what the oil looked like on the dipstick ....and the fact that the motor wasnt locked up.. amazing. I think its a testament to the South Western US climate where that drivetrain could sit for so long and not have welded itself together into a barnacled mess of rust. Awesome job!
Amazing! I'm tickled and it isn't even mine............I like the bare bones speedster better than a boat tail but I almost couldn't help but like whatever it becomes now even if it only becomes what it already is. I like it!
View attachment 3271762 FYI You can Tig cast iron and use AWS ER 309L . You need to tap it with a hammer to stress relieve it every inch. I use it to put ears on cast iron blocks. But it is hard to drill or tap. You need a carbide bit and when you tap it you only go about 1/4 turn and back up or you will break tap off and cutting oil. I learned this from a welding lnstructor. Frank
Decent price on the Tillotson but why does it have a big ass hole drilled in it? Is that the nail hole you hang it on the wall with? Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
thanks guys! It's neat there's so much interest in getting an old car running There was an early 30s rearend with a pair of artillery wheels on it, near the car. I need to call the lady and see if she'll part with it, if it's still there. I'll let her know it's running, she probably won't believe it.
if you tell her the car runs, she will want more for the rear axle. just kiding, what is wrong with the rear in the car? locked up?
The original Carter RAKX-0 is beautiful when restored, quite rare, VERY expensive, and NOT a very good carburetor. The Tillotson X is ugly anytime, readily available (wonder why ), quite cheap, and an even WORSE carburetor. If you don't wish to use an original, there are much better carburetors to use than the Tillotson X. Jon.
So far, the Carter seems to be working, but then, I haven't tried to drive anywhere! When it becomes a problem, I'll seek your advice for a better one....thanks! The other rear axle, I would want only for the wheels that are on it.
A wee bit more on the Carter RAKX-0, identification number 102s (but good luck on finding a tag, as Carter used red cardboard for tags prior to 1932). The MAJOR issue with the RAKX-0 is that the lower portion of the cast iron deteriorates with time, especially in the area where the low speed jet screws into the cast iron. Better than 50 percent of the ones I have examined will have the cast iron eroded in this area to the point that the seat for the low speed jet is virtually gone, and the idle circuit will not function. The solution is to have a welder that can weld cast iron repair this area. Then the seat must be re-machined in the casting, and the column rethreaded for the low speed jet. This issue seems to be unique to the RAKX-0, and I don't know why. When I started visiting with Carter engineers in the early 1970's, no one was there that dated back to 1928; and could find no reference to this issue in the Carter records. Possibly, Carter was experimenting with a different mix of cast iron??? Other issues have to do with parts interchangeability. Carter used one float from 1925~1927, a different float for the 2 versions of the RAKX-0, and again a different float beginning in 1929. The floats are not interchangeable. Of course, all of the jets, the venturi, the standpipe, and other parts are all unique; but the float is the part that fails most often. And special tools are REQUIRED to disassemble any further than just removing the bowl, float, and fuel valve. ALL of the above contribute to why the RAKX-0 is so rare, and very expensive. Obviously, if yours is functioning, RESIST the urge to take it apart Jon.
heh...too late! But I didn't take it apart very far, just enough to see that the float pivot pin is stuck, and to get out a little bit of crud in the bottom. There is a little corrosion, but it's not bad, so I will just leave it alone. It barely leaks, and the float seems to work, etc. Thanks for the tips!
I went out to the barn last night, and started looking for wheels/tires to get it rolling. I think 3 of them have good tubes and hold air, the other leaks. It's a start...
The wheel bolt pattern is the same as used on cars till 48, and 2wd trucks till 72, and 4x4s till 87 or so, and then the newer ones are probably the same, but I don't mess with them much. I need to put some parts back on to have brakes. Front brakes will run off the pedal, rear off the parking brake lever...since one rear band was missing, and the other had to be removed to fit the smaller diameter rims.
The Jalopy Journal
