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1928 chevy 4cyl motor

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by RedRodder, Apr 7, 2010.

  1. Bigcheese327
    Joined: Sep 16, 2001
    Posts: 6,659

    Bigcheese327
    Member

    Those carbs look great, Kume. I've got a later pair off a Big Healey I've been thinking about using. What are those off of originally?
     
  2. Kume
    Joined: Jan 23, 2010
    Posts: 841

    Kume
    Member

    Am not sure what they are off. They were fitted to numerous British cars from the 1920s on. These are 1 & 1/8 brass bodies and float bowls from the 1920s. I suspect it is going to be trial and error with carbs on this build.
     
  3. Stueeee
    Joined: Oct 21, 2015
    Posts: 179

    Stueeee
    Member
    from Kent, UK


    Off a mid to late 20's car of some sort I think with those Bronze float chambers. Early 30s SU carbs had a bronze body but had alloy float chambers. SU seemed to be a bit late t the party on die casting; some of the 2" and up carbs from the late 30s were still sand cast.
     
  4. grumpy gaby 2
    Joined: Aug 10, 2019
    Posts: 10

    grumpy gaby 2
    Member

    Kume I've been trying to match up a t5 transmition to the c4. I did like you and had the skirt machined off, have not counterbored for the flywheel to crank bolts, the springs on the newer disc interfere, replaced nuts with some jamb nuts for now. My speedster has the little newer 9" chevy springed disc and does not interfere. So things are close, will counter bore and replace bolts with #8's. Next time you have your clutch out, I sure would like to see a picture of it!!!!
     
  5. Kume
    Joined: Jan 23, 2010
    Posts: 841

    Kume
    Member

    Pics & some more info on my build.
    The chap doing the engineering work for me has successfully raced a 1923 chev for many years so am following what he has done and am drawing on his experience.
    • 1926 block
    • Flywheel skirt machined off, holes drilled & for Holden HQ clutch pressure plate, taper head bolts with cone friction washers 60lb torque & threaded crank shaft mounting holes.
    • Strengthened centre main cap.
    • Mushroom cam followers - still trying to find out original application for these.
    • 1928 cam grind.
    • High compression pistons.
    • Chev 6 cyl oil pump. Some grinding required to fit beside new centre main cap & new drive peg for distributor. May fit 1925 front engine plate to run a magneto as an option.
    • 3 port Oldsmobile head with twin SU's as per earlier posting. Tappet fulcrum still to be moved.
    • Everything balanced.
    The motor is going into a 1926 Model T Roadster for which I started a build thread for a million years ago. Using 1928 chev gearbox. Have fitted 1927 chev rear end with 1928 chev brake drums and modified hubs to take 1928 Ford Model A 21 inch wheels.
    20190920_112744.jpg 20190920_112753.jpg 20190920_112809.jpg 20190920_112812.jpg 20190920_113010.jpg 20190920_113251.jpg 20190920_113318.jpg
     
    282doorUK, Stueeee, Jet96 and 4 others like this.
  6. Stueeee
    Joined: Oct 21, 2015
    Posts: 179

    Stueeee
    Member
    from Kent, UK

    Great work there. Do you know which Chevy six oil pump you're using? The 216, splash and pressure lubed 235 variants seem to have three different oil pumps.
     
  7. Kume
    Joined: Jan 23, 2010
    Posts: 841

    Kume
    Member

    I
    Not sure Stueee - I will find out.
    Would be interesting to know if pumps from early Vauxhall or Bedford 6 could be used. Were they not an improved version of the Chev 6 ?.
     
  8. Kume
    Joined: Jan 23, 2010
    Posts: 841

    Kume
    Member

  9. Herb Kephart
    Joined: Jan 9, 2017
    Posts: 95

    Herb Kephart
    Member

    Kume--I would recommend that you put at least 2 dowel pins opposite each other, and between the flywheel/crank screws. Don't bother asking how I know. One between each pair of screws is better, but don't go over ¼" diameter on any.
    Stueee- I used 235 Chevy oil pumps from the mid '50's Notice that I made a new bottom plate

    I'm still alive (more or less) and once in a while I am able to get on here--but most times the whole site doesn't want to have anything to do with me. Sob Sob 171 oil pump--'50's Chev.JPG

    Herb
     
    Jiminy, hendelec, Baumi and 3 others like this.
  10. Herb Kephart
    Joined: Jan 9, 2017
    Posts: 95

    Herb Kephart
    Member

    Grumpy
    Since it is obvious that milling the head isn't going to get you any more compression, taking a cut off the top of the block was sometimes resorted to. cylinder block 002.jpg Stock deck iron in the block. Work on the longer tubular rods for for the larger 224cu inch 4 discontinued, it looked that they were going to end up too heavy. Other sinister plans may hatch.
    DSC03777.JPG
     
    Jet96, hendelec and bct like this.
  11. Kume
    Joined: Jan 23, 2010
    Posts: 841

    Kume
    Member

    Good to see you back on this thread Herb. Thanks for the advice.
     
    hendelec likes this.
  12. Stueeee
    Joined: Oct 21, 2015
    Posts: 179

    Stueeee
    Member
    from Kent, UK

    Herb, thanks for the information regarding the oil pump, I'll put a 235 pump on my ever lengthening shopping list.
     
  13. grumpy gaby 2
    Joined: Aug 10, 2019
    Posts: 10

    grumpy gaby 2
    Member

    Herb, sorry to hear about the rod weight. It is a very good looking rod!
     
  14. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 2,729

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Herb, It's good to hear from you. We are ready to hear all your secrets. Well, the ones about Chevy Fours at least. :rolleyes:
     
  15. Andrew Mccann
    Joined: Aug 2, 2016
    Posts: 236

    Andrew Mccann
    Member
    from Bristol UK

    I’m selling a 1928 short motor in good nick and 1921 Olds 3-port head (needs repair). I’ll post up in the classifieds soon but get in touch if anyone is interested. Based in UK
    I was keeping them as spare but I’ve got plenty to keep me going
     
    Blackbob likes this.

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