The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by RedRodder, Apr 7, 2010.
Those carbs look great, Kume. I've got a later pair off a Big Healey I've been thinking about using. What are those off of originally?
Am not sure what they are off. They were fitted to numerous British cars from the 1920s on. These are 1 & 1/8 brass bodies and float bowls from the 1920s. I suspect it is going to be trial and error with carbs on this build.
Off a mid to late 20's car of some sort I think with those Bronze float chambers. Early 30s SU carbs had a bronze body but had alloy float chambers. SU seemed to be a bit late t the party on die casting; some of the 2" and up carbs from the late 30s were still sand cast.
Kume I've been trying to match up a t5 transmition to the c4. I did like you and had the skirt machined off, have not counterbored for the flywheel to crank bolts, the springs on the newer disc interfere, replaced nuts with some jamb nuts for now. My speedster has the little newer 9" chevy springed disc and does not interfere. So things are close, will counter bore and replace bolts with #8's. Next time you have your clutch out, I sure would like to see a picture of it!!!!
Pics & some more info on my build.
The chap doing the engineering work for me has successfully raced a 1923 chev for many years so am following what he has done and am drawing on his experience.
Flywheel skirt machined off, holes drilled & for Holden HQ clutch pressure plate, taper head bolts with cone friction washers 60lb torque & threaded crank shaft mounting holes.
Strengthened centre main cap.
Mushroom cam followers - still trying to find out original application for these.
1928 cam grind.
High compression pistons.
Chev 6 cyl oil pump. Some grinding required to fit beside new centre main cap & new drive peg for distributor. May fit 1925 front engine plate to run a magneto as an option.
3 port Oldsmobile head with twin SU's as per earlier posting. Tappet fulcrum still to be moved.
The motor is going into a 1926 Model T Roadster for which I started a build thread for a million years ago. Using 1928 chev gearbox. Have fitted 1927 chev rear end with 1928 chev brake drums and modified hubs to take 1928 Ford Model A 21 inch wheels.
Great work there. Do you know which Chevy six oil pump you're using? The 216, splash and pressure lubed 235 variants seem to have three different oil pumps.
Not sure Stueee - I will find out.
Would be interesting to know if pumps from early Vauxhall or Bedford 6 could be used. Were they not an improved version of the Chev 6 ?.
A couple of Chev 4 specials for sale
Kume--I would recommend that you put at least 2 dowel pins opposite each other, and between the flywheel/crank screws. Don't bother asking how I know. One between each pair of screws is better, but don't go over ¼" diameter on any.
Stueee- I used 235 Chevy oil pumps from the mid '50's Notice that I made a new bottom plate
I'm still alive (more or less) and once in a while I am able to get on here--but most times the whole site doesn't want to have anything to do with me. Sob Sob
Since it is obvious that milling the head isn't going to get you any more compression, taking a cut off the top of the block was sometimes resorted to.
Stock deck iron in the block. Work on the longer tubular rods for for the larger 224cu inch 4 discontinued, it looked that they were going to end up too heavy. Other sinister plans may hatch.
Good to see you back on this thread Herb. Thanks for the advice.
Herb, thanks for the information regarding the oil pump, I'll put a 235 pump on my ever lengthening shopping list.
Herb, sorry to hear about the rod weight. It is a very good looking rod!
Herb, It's good to hear from you. We are ready to hear all your secrets. Well, the ones about Chevy Fours at least.
I’m selling a 1928 short motor in good nick and 1921 Olds 3-port head (needs repair). I’ll post up in the classifieds soon but get in touch if anyone is interested. Based in UK
I was keeping them as spare but I’ve got plenty to keep me going
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