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1928 chevy 4cyl motor

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by RedRodder, Apr 7, 2010.

  1. Krokodilen
    Joined: Dec 5, 2015
    Posts: 12

    Krokodilen
    Member
    from Sweden

    Thanks! I opened up the -28 and it looks really good. Will try to get it started soon to see if its ok. Gota change one rocker arm and free up a stuck valve. The engine got a -27 head on it now because the original head cracked a cooling duct. I got that head too. I will try to fix the crack and later I`ll use that one instead! Is the electrical positive or negative ground?
     
  2. ebtm3
    Joined: May 23, 2007
    Posts: 837

    ebtm3
    Member

    Negative--You ain't working on no dang Furd!

    All the single port (pre '28) heads crack very easily, so are much more valuable than '28's. '28's are fairly easy to come so don't spend a lot of money fixing a cracked one. Lot of cars got a slight ''hop up''--even from the dealer--when a single port cracked and a '28 head was installed. Slightly larger valves, and 1 1/2 to 1 rockers doncha know.

    Herb

    PS ANYTIME that you start a C4 that has been sleeping for a long time, BE SURE that you have oil pressure--something between 2-8 pounds at idle, depending how thick the oil is. If not, pull the oil pump apart and investigate the little coil spring that pushes the two vanes apart. Acidic oil, and long storage tend to eat the fine wire. Replace with a compression spring that fits, and can be easily squeezed between a thumb and finger. Not much pressure needed, and at higher than idle speed centrifugal force pushes the vanes apart.

    H
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2016
    bct likes this.
  3. Krokodilen
    Joined: Dec 5, 2015
    Posts: 12

    Krokodilen
    Member
    from Sweden

    Thanks fore the advice on the oil pump. Will check it before startup! Not so easy to get heads to these engines in Sweden! :) So the rockers are different. Hmmm I was thinking of swaping just one rocker to replace the broken one on the -27. Guess I`ll have to change them all to get the geometry right.
     
  4. ebtm3
    Joined: May 23, 2007
    Posts: 837

    ebtm3
    Member

    Krokodilen

    You can't exchange earlier rockers with '28's, or vice-versa, because the pivot point is different. Do your early rockers have the valve adjustment at the non- valve end, (later) or are both ends plain?(earlier) Let me know, and I will look and see if I have a spare. You just need one , for the single port head, correct?
     
  5. Krokodilen
    Joined: Dec 5, 2015
    Posts: 12

    Krokodilen
    Member
    from Sweden

    Sorry for the late response. Been a lot to do at work. It`s the later one with adjustment at the pushrod end. Would you be willing to ship it to Sweden? I`ll pay all shipping costs plus a little something for the trouble. What type of spark plug do u guys us. Modern ones with adapters? Many Thanks Stefan...

    Ps Its just the one!
     
  6. ebtm3
    Joined: May 23, 2007
    Posts: 837

    ebtm3
    Member

    Sorry Krokodilen, but I spent a couple hours today looking for the rockers that you need. I thought that I had some, but no luck.

    Herb
     
  7. Krokodilen
    Joined: Dec 5, 2015
    Posts: 12

    Krokodilen
    Member
    from Sweden

    Thanks anyway! Got some leads on a couple of rockers through a Facebook group. In the meantime i welded it up so I can test start it. If I can figure out how to post pics I´ll post some.
    12814039_10153990710904878_7543363795871194602_n.jpg 12814039_10153990710904878_7543363795871194602_n.jpg 12718298_10153990710954878_2051956243319378450_n.jpg 12795509_10153990710979878_9003304037438368006_n.jpg 12800215_10153990710874878_2025553175942167867_n.jpg
     
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  8. Kume
    Joined: Jan 23, 2010
    Posts: 892

    Kume
    Member

    Just a thought
    I am wanting to use a model t ford radiator for a chev 4 transplant into a model t . The t radiator has inlet and outlets the size of a drain pipe - no doubt for the thermo syphon - no water pump scenario. Should I replace the t radiator or can i reduce the size of the top tank and fit smaller inlet outlet pipes and retain the chev 4 water pump. I suspect this is a trial by error adventure but any advice greatly appreciated. I understand that the after market T water pumps are considered ineffectual possibly due to the drain pipe dimensions of the plumbing.
    literally yours
    kume
     
  9. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,674

    MrModelT
    Member

    Most likely that is the case, although a T water pump does seem to do something. We have cars with and without them. The ones with tend to run a bit cooler longer when not moving.

    I suppose altering the T rad with a smaller upper water pipe would be okay, especially if you are using the Chevy water pump. If you were eliminating it...I would say make a larger pipe for the head so that Thermo-syphon works.
     
  10. Kume
    Joined: Jan 23, 2010
    Posts: 892

    Kume
    Member

    thanks Clayton
    I think I will reduce the rad outlets - but likely to be a case of trial and error.
    Cheers
    Kume
     
  11. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 10,020

    RichFox
    Member Emeritus

    I have been recovering from surgery since New Years. So I was getting bored and thought I should do something fun. That didn't require a lot of thought. . I decided to try to make a header flange for a 25 Olds head from some old steel left over from when they dug up the storm drains behind my house. Lots of time on the hydraulic press, whacking it with a BFH and twisting it with a BFWrench. Cleaned up at .340 from a kind of 3/8 plate. Before and after pictures attached.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Mar 24, 2016
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  12. Bigcheese327
    Joined: Sep 16, 2001
    Posts: 6,691

    Bigcheese327
    Member

  13. Six Ball
    Joined: Oct 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,337

    Six Ball
    Member
    from Nevada

    Pretty nice. I couldn't see a flange in the first picture. I guess that is why I have more rusty old metal around than nice parts.
     
  14. Rich, how big are the intake/exhaust ports on your 3 port head?
     
  15. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 10,020

    RichFox
    Member Emeritus

    This is the old case of find a piece of scrap metal and cut off everything that doesn't look like a header flange. 1 9/16 intake. 1 3/4 exhaust
     
  16. Egor
    Joined: Sep 1, 2010
    Posts: 73

    Egor
    Member

    Rich, l have a question, l have a full race 25 engine, the Oldsmobile head got away but I have everything else and am now using a 28 head. It has a shop cast front cover with another crank gear to drive the Bosch mag, it's full pressure oil with some strange piston's on Chevy rods. Nice bumpy cam custom lifters. Have you ever seen piston's like this? I know the height from pin center to top is what they were going for (compression) hear is pic. Thanks for any info. Dave
    [​IMG]

    Sent from my SPH-L710 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  17. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 10,020

    RichFox
    Member Emeritus

    No I have not. Mine came with an old set of Jhans cast pistons. Three rings. Yours must be a really old pistone.
     
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  18. ebtm3
    Joined: May 23, 2007
    Posts: 837

    ebtm3
    Member

    Egor, Does the crank have welded on counterweights, or is it an aftermarket item? I had a crank that came out of a ''race'' engine--made from a round billet. Thing was Godawful heavy. Sold at Hershey to a collector.
     
  19. CNC-Dude
    Joined: Nov 23, 2007
    Posts: 974

    CNC-Dude
    Member

    Looks like a part number L641. This has been common nomenclature for piston part numbers for many decades. You might be able to find a cross reference somewhere to identify it.
     

    Attached Files:

  20. SR100
    Joined: Nov 26, 2013
    Posts: 966

    SR100
    Member

    Is it aluminum? It looks like a period Bohnalite piston.
     
  21. Egor
    Joined: Sep 1, 2010
    Posts: 73

    Egor
    Member

    [​IMG][​IMG]
    Pics of the block, looks like a stock crank drilled, you can see the bump stick and the custom lifters. The mag drive and cover. Have fun

    Sent from my SPH-L710 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  22. ebtm3
    Joined: May 23, 2007
    Posts: 837

    ebtm3
    Member

    Now I realize that the previous photo - with the rod and piston laying across the pan joint-- isn't of a C4 lower end. Sorry, my bad.

    I will see if I can find the ''racing'' pistons and rods that came with the heavy crank that I mentioned earlier.

    Herb
     
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  23. Egor
    Joined: Sep 1, 2010
    Posts: 73

    Egor
    Member

    Sorry, I layed the piston on the bottom end of a sleeve valve engine I'm building. That goes into a Willys Knight l have, interesting build they are. Lol

    Sent from my SPH-L710 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  24. ebtm3
    Joined: May 23, 2007
    Posts: 837

    ebtm3
    Member

    Here are the piston and rod from the '25 ''race'' engine. RayDay, std. bore and pin to crown height.


    ]

    Never run, but ''improved'' by drilling full of holes. They forgot to drill holes through the crown....... DSC03717.JPG


    Can't seem to post a second image--so I'll do another post

    Herb
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 8, 2016
  25. ebtm3
    Joined: May 23, 2007
    Posts: 837

    ebtm3
    Member

    Aluminum rod, no name but attacked with a coarse file---or it might have been a hungry Pit Bull.. DSC03715.JPG

    Stock length. Piston is the same pin to crown dimension as a stock '28 aluminum one, so when all assembled and in a block (with stock stroke crank) the compression is the same as a '28 ?? Doesn't make much sense to me--spend $$ --and even if it wasn't turned into scrap-- only have a little less reciprocating weight. How fast did they think that they were going to twist the thing?

    Items now for the stupidity shelf.

    Herb
     
    Egor likes this.
  26. Kume
    Joined: Jan 23, 2010
    Posts: 892

    Kume
    Member

    Love this banger!. poached pic from another thread - posted by 'Road Runner'. probably seen before but who can remember. Looks like a 3 port with stock header. chev 25 Roadster - 1947.jpg
     
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  27. Egor
    Joined: Sep 1, 2010
    Posts: 73

    Egor
    Member

    Herb lf you look at the book Speed Secrets for the model T, those holes drilled in the piston is what was taught. Im lucky they didn't do that to mine. I'll post a pic of the page. That rod is interesting, we now know to soft round over all edges, and no scratches but they called it lightning the rods. Lol. On my block look how they got oil to the rear main.

    Sent from my SPH-L710 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  28. WillH
    Joined: Dec 8, 2010
    Posts: 16

    WillH
    Member
    from Texas

    Herb; I'm a long time fan of the early Chevy four. Reading over this thread for the last few days, I recall you referring to A Ford rods modified to fit on the Chevy crank. Can you tell me what is needed to make the "A" rods work? Thanks

    WillH
     
  29. ebtm3
    Joined: May 23, 2007
    Posts: 837

    ebtm3
    Member

    Will-a little has to be taken off the crank end bearing width (can be done without re-Babbitting) and the piston end has to be re-bushed to fit the Chev wrist pin. Gives a little higher compression, and a lot better rod metallurgy.

    Herb
     
  30. WillH
    Joined: Dec 8, 2010
    Posts: 16

    WillH
    Member
    from Texas

    "T
    Has anyone tried using a "T" Ford piston; 3 3/4" std. bore, so cylinders would need to be bored .0625, just right for a clean-up. I need to get hold of one to measure the compression height; they also have a dome top which would help with the compression. I believe the pin is 3/4"on the "T", so should be easy enough to ream and hone to 1". Also available and reasonably priced.

    WillH
     

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