Lots usable from my perspective. I think the frames have a nice style and are beefy compared to some others
There is a lot of good stuff there. A lot of early hot rods didn't use Ford frames. Essex was a great choice but Chevy frames were stout. 3 springers are cool. If you chop them up to put on "buggy" springs what does it matter?
Ive come across 10 or so of these trucks over the years and they all seem the same size externally. I know because i look at the valve cover and think....that would be an awesome meatloaf. The engine in my 3springer came from a coupe but i personally have never seen one in a car. The area i live in 1928 was all about logging so i think the truck was more popular choice.
I agree with Jimmy. The 43a etc had a longer stroke but was gone by 23. The only difference I have noted with superior - national trucks is the T prefix and cast iron pistons all the way through, thicker radiator I think.
Mac- the brake lining (that I use on all cars with mechanical brakes) is called ''Green Gripper'' http://www.scanpac.com/molded-roll.cfm I have always bought it from an outfit in NY, but can't find their number right now. And now, the elusive BIG Chevy 4 Same bore as the 170 cid - 3 11/16'', but stroke is 5 1/4''--224cid Only used in cars from 1917 (series FA and FB) till 1922 and in big trucks from 1918 (Series T) till 1922. The cars were the ''Royal Mail'' roadster and the ''Baby Grand'' touring, and considerably larger over all compared to the 490, which was also produced the same time, Trucks were long wheel base ''ton and a half'' How to identify engines. Block looks similar to the later car engines, but is slightly taller, but the easiest identifier is that there is a (aprox) 3'' cast iron upper oil pan, with a shallow tin pan below that. All have distributer, generator and oil pump driven off timing gears on front RH side of block. the earlier crankshafts have 1 1/2'' diameter rod journals, but the last year, 1922 had 1 31/32, and is the only one worth using IMHO. '22 was the only year that the desirable 3 port head was used, before that it was a prone to crack single port. Olds used the same engine, dropping it in '21 for a six. Uses same head gasket as small four. If I ever get done the current project--a Willys '58 Station wagon/Deutz 5 cylinder air cooled diesel engine swap, I intend getting back to the motor that Mac saw - the 224 Chevy. I have counterweights to put on the crank, and have some more machining to do on a set of longer tubular rods that I started from billet. This will replace the diesel in my '28 Chev coupe Herb
Thanks for clearing up the 224 info Jimmy and Herb, and sorry for the misinformation! Herb, will be sure to pick up some Green Grabber asap- thank you Bummer that it didn't come in the 490- would've been a hoot to have found a 224 tucked under the hood
Ugh, 10 hour workday yesterday and then band rehearsal until 8:30- was a bit tired when I read your post, Herb... Will pick up some Green Gripper soon Jimmy, I found a Graham Paige oil pump that's close to what you posted- will need a little modification, but I think it might work. Will post some pics when I get it cleaned up.
Does look like a light truck chassis too, I had a 28 Chev phaeton chassis I was using to make a modified from but that chassis looks a lot bigger. Did not know there was a bigger Chev 4
Its a 1 ton chassis i believe. It has a car rear jimmied in place to roll it around when the wheels were whole . I believe the frame is older than the engine based on the crudeness of some of the parts like the timing levers .
In the process of rebuilding the transmission from the '22 490 and wanted to get your thoughts on what brand/weight of fluid to use. The tranny has brass/bronze bushings and (of course) all straight cut gears. Overall, the gears look pretty clean, with only a little wear on the contact end of the teeth, but there are a couple issues with one of the ball bearings for the top shafts and the separating plate under the shifter. I have an idea on a fix, but will take pics and post them later tonight.
Well, no pics and unfortunately, some issues with the trans. There is at least one broken gear tooth on one gear and the teeth of the 2nd/high sliding gear look a little twisted... hoping that later gears might work- does anybody know? The issue with the top shaft ball bearing is that the separating/neutral plate has a locking pin located behind one of the ball bearings, and that pin worked itself loose just enough to gall the ball bearing. Looks like I will have to drill from the other side to knock the pin out, then tap the hole for an allen head set screw (and some loctite).
Bill-- Is the bearing some bastard size? I've sleeved/bored to take modern bearings many times in the past when confronted with this--Stevie job? I'm no help on the gears, however. Gary Wallace will know about the interchange, I would think. Herb
Nothing that drastic, Herb I didn't explain it well- the bars with the shifter forks on them have a ball bearing/spring retainer. One of the ball bearings just needs to be replaced. There is a locking pin for the neutral plated (behind that ball bearing) that worked loose and needs to be drilled out as well. Heading to Brad's tomorrow evening for a second pair of eyes/better drill press, so I don't bugger the thing up- will take pics and post them
What's better than an Olds 3 port ? How about a genuine Robert Roof Chevy 4 head, Ebay item # 381319574662. If I wasn't so involved in Model T speed equipment I'd bid on it myself.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/381319574662?ru=http://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_nkw=381319574662&_rdc=1 Thanks for the heads up. Outta my budget. But cool to see
LOL- I fell asleep 3 times while typing that post to Herb last night, Joe !!! WOW that Roof head is cool- neat to see where Roof veered from the Olds head idea. I know that there was a head designed by Alexander (I think) for the Frontenac brand, and that John Gerber bought the patterns from Alexander and modified them for his own use (Gerber said that the original design flowed pretty poorly). Wonder how Roof's head runs Got the plate pin issue taken care of without having to drill. With the summer job, I've only had a little time here and there to work on the tranny, so I guessed at the reason for the ball bearing check ball being galled, but I guess that at some point things got jammed up going into gear. That would explain the twisted teeth and the galled ball check. Now I just need to tear down a spare '28 transmission to see if the internals are the same...
I have seen a Roof Dodge Bros head. 16 valve as expected. This head is less of a departure from the Olds than I expected.
Looks like it has an inlet manifold preheat like an olds. What do you suppose the two small holes in each of the pots is for? The rocker pedestals look a little weak and the gap between the big valves could be a crack waiting to happen.
Jimmy, If you know someone coming to Bonneville maybe I could help getting it to them? I have a friend in Fresno.
Well, I tore apart the spare '28 trans, and it looks like the newer gears will work. so we're back in business!!! Also, time to let the proverbial cat out of the bag- about a month ago, a good friend (Johnny Speedster) invited me along to look at some cars that he was considering buying, and long story short, I wound up with the bare bones of a '22 490 roadster, and we agreed to go after getting it ready for TRoG in October. The engine is pretty clean, and Brad54 and I are going to start prepping the Olds 3 port head (trying to remember what modern valves to use- think the are Ford 223?). Trying to decide what to do about whether to use the generator/distributor or a magneto (have a Bosch ZU4, a Wico X from a Case tractor, and a Splitdorf to choose from). One other issue are the weak driveshaft and rear axles. Apparently, the early cone clutch is pretty hard on them. While I'd love to use a later flywheel/clutch, time probably won't permit it (will see what is really possible). I've heard that Model T axles will work, but wanted to know if anyone had more info on modifying an early rear? As always, I'm open to any and all suggestions and look forward to hearing your thoughts! Thanks, Bill Totally open to suggestions
Bill In the past, I've had problems with old Bosch mags on motorcycles. The shellac (or what ever it is) that is painted on the coil windings gets soft when it gets hot, and centrifugal force slings it off. When the mag cools down. the goo covered armature then becomes glued fast to the magnet poles. Rewound, they can't be beat by other mags of their day, but go with a mag with a stationary coil and rotating magnet. I have coated Bosch coils with clear epoxy to seal the goo in, with success, when I wanted the Bosch for originality--or had the armature rewound ---SPENSIVE! Great find on the 490! Herb
I say go Mag....more reliable, easy to dick around with and they throw a way hotter spark. What Splitdorf is it...." Dixie" Model 44? Clayton
Addition-- Go on the VCCA chat forum, and ask about axles. I think there is a guy that goes by ''Billy Possum'' that makes replacements from good steel--driveshafts also, as I recall. Herb
Yep great project Bill. Some nice looking speedsters out there made from 490 chassis. I always fancied doing a Gerber bob tail build. Billy Possum does some great repro parts for chev 4s. axles included. Most are for sale at The Filling Station or go direct to his web site. I have used his tappet adjusters . http://www.billypossum.com/c&p_catalog/c&p_catalog_rev_031225.htm Re Mag - I am with Clayton - esp on a 490 motor set up for a mag to begin with. Kume
Bill I just checked my 490 motor and it has a Simms C4 mag fitted. These were standard equip for export chevs from Canada to NZ and Aus but mags aren't listed in parts lists for US chevs.
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