Register now to get rid of these ads!

1928 chevy 4cyl motor

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by RedRodder, Apr 7, 2010.

  1. NORSON
    Joined: Jan 19, 2009
    Posts: 468

    NORSON
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Herb
    Yes the block was greatly overbored. I chose it because the pistons I was testing were to large to fit into my other blocks. I'm not sure about the block decking however. In my posting #282 I said that the GMC pistons extended above the deck by 0.0938 (ruffly). Thats very close to the number you came up with. I estimated that the dome of the piston was 0.370 thick and wondered if it could be milled for valve clearance. In that posting I did mis-identify the pistons as 292's but corrected myself in #296. There are different 270 pistons without a split skirt.
    Norm
     
  2. Hey guys, just letting you know there's a "1923/25" chev engine and gearbox for sale here in Western Australia for $300. I'd buy it if I had the money. :(

    If anyone wants the phone number I'l PM it to you.

    BTW, IMO this is one of the best threads on the H.A.M.B, I've been watching but unfortunately I can't really contribute anything, I wish I could! Keep the good work up guys!

    Thanks

    Hayden
     
  3. Kume
    Joined: Jan 23, 2010
    Posts: 892

    Kume
    Member

    Whats its worth and should I buy. Three port chev head, winfield S, custom inlet manifold and tappet cover, 25 block - sundry 25 chev parts. He is asking about 4500 US - these seems ott but I have no idea what these parts are worth as you rarely come across them - what do you think - see photos
     

    Attached Files:

  4. $4,500US seems a little steep with what is included. For that money you should be getting a engine that should run. That is just a nice collection of parts. The head is stock probably hasn't even been ported and the stock rocker stands are still on the head. The block appears to be the desirable casting but again it is stock, no visible mods. The really rare part is that intake. To me what is there is worth $2,000-2,500US at most, but that is me.
     
    volvobrynk likes this.
  5. What crankshaft is that?

    I agree with Jimmy- he are some nice parts there but added up, no more than about $1500-$2000 (if that's not a stock crank).


    Herb, I forgot to ask you- are those stock 270 pistons?
     
  6. RichFox
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 10,020

    RichFox
    Member Emeritus

    Having just paid $2500 for a billet crank for my Dodge banger I was wondering about your crank. My Chevy has welded on counterweights, yours looks billet. Still $4500US seems pretty high. Depends on what else goes with it I guess. Would need to be a lot of stuff.
     
  7. Kume
    Joined: Jan 23, 2010
    Posts: 892

    Kume
    Member

    thanks guys - I figured it was an unrealistic price. Sadly it was the first and only 3 port head I have seen in NZ. The guy selling is an old pattern maker who was planning to build a single seater but poor health has forced him to sell. The crank is a wooden pattern only. There are no mods to the block or head. Other parts include chassis, gear box, steering, axles etc but all in poor condition and most I would send to the dump. There is also a set of 20inch spoke rims - no hubs but I think there are few decent speed rated tyres made to fit 20inch rims.
     
  8. ebtm3
    Joined: May 23, 2007
    Posts: 837

    ebtm3
    Member


    They started out as stock Bill, but I had to weld up the skirt splits, cut skirts down 1/32" in diameter, cut some from the top of the dome, hone out the pin holes .010", cut the space between the piston bosses 1/4" wider for the top of Ford rods, cut a scoop in skirt to lighten them some (still bloody heavy), and waiting on a scale that I have ordered to balance them. Meanwhile working on a serpentine belt drive for the blower on the 28 coupe, while its injection pump is off getting tweaked.

    Herb
     
  9. ... so you really haven't done very much now, HAVE you :D?

    Thanks for the info Herb- I've been in the midst of reorganizing the garage so that the '28 chassis is accessible... getting closer. Hope to have the stock engine turning over during spring break.

    Sooo, how's Jimmy John's- back to business as usual?

    Take care, Bill
     
  10. youngster
    Joined: Feb 26, 2006
    Posts: 533

    youngster
    Member Emeritus
    from Minnesota

    First of all I have spent every spare minute the last 2 dasys reading every word posted on this thread. All I can say is WOW!!!!! You guys are awesome!!

    My trip into the C4 began 6years ago when I saw a Chevy head adapted to a Model A block at a FAST meet in Iowa. While looking for a '28 head, I found a complete engine/trans that had been used on an asphalt spreader. The motor has been rebuilt to factory specs. I have it on a run in stand in my shop now. I fire it up when I need insperation. That first unit has now been joined by a rebuildable second setup and another that isn't good for anything but parts and or a mock-up piece for my early '30's dirt racer.

    I now have visions of a board track racer with an Olds 3 port dancing around in my head, like I need another project. Anyone know of an Essex chassis??

    I don't have much to contrubute in the way of information but will continue to gleam as much as I can from the knowledgable folks here.

    Ron
     
  11. Ron,

    You NEED to get a copy of John Gerber's Outlaw Sprint Car Racer- it will give you LOTS of good ideas!

    Bill
     
  12. youngster
    Joined: Feb 26, 2006
    Posts: 533

    youngster
    Member Emeritus
    from Minnesota

    Bill,

    Another great book is Dirt Track Auto Racing 1914 to 1941 by Don Radbruch. There is some mention of our beloved Chevy 4's in it.

    Ron
     
  13. Thanks Ron- will look for it!
     
  14. youngster
    Joined: Feb 26, 2006
    Posts: 533

    youngster
    Member Emeritus
    from Minnesota

    Ok, you guys have me going on improving my '28 motor. I went into the shop this morning and just couldn't resist firing it up ... sounds so sweet just sitting there idling. Then I started thinking about trying to coax a little more out of it.

    Keep in mind this motor was rebuilt about 6 years ago and I had it on a test stand for the last 4. It has been run enough to consider it as broke in now.

    In the past I have found the best low dollar hop up was the dial in the ignition. I pulled the dizzy and found it to be in excellent shape. Nice and tight with all new parts in it. The points had some scoring so I replaced them with a new set. Reinstalled the dizzy and with a few ajustments the ol' girl was purring again.

    I have a head that has been checked for cracks and appears to be a solid piece. A call to a friend that loves '39 Chebbys netted me a brand new W1 Carter. I made up a quick adaptor for a spare intake and bolted it to the head . I like it, but can't help but to think a manifold with larger tubing would help. Digging thru my parts boxes I came up with some 1 1/2" mandrel bends. Looking at the head it seems possible to open the ports enough to match the 1 1/2" tubes, which is now done. There's a fresh set of head flanges and a carb base for the W1 with the tubing cut and tacked to go between them bolted to the spare head. Here's where Murphy's Law comes into play ... I'm out of argon!!!! Oh well, Monday's only 2 days away.

    Any thoughts on what 've done so far? Please be kind, I'm very sensitive.

    Ron
     
  15. Ron,

    If you take a close look at the intake ports, you'll notice that they are stamped steel tubes. Take the "daisies" out of the ports they are still in, then you can stick the right sized screwdriver handle or socket into the "port" and wiggle it out.

    You might be able to use some larger tubing, flare the end, then install them to open up the intake port,but that's about it.

    That's one reason why people look for the Olds 3 port head- the port runners have a smoother transition as well.

    The W1 is a great carb to run in place of the original... AND you could always find another and run 2!

    Below is a pic of the "daisies" to get rid of- they really don't help with fuel distribution...

    [​IMG]
     
  16. youngster
    Joined: Feb 26, 2006
    Posts: 533

    youngster
    Member Emeritus
    from Minnesota

    2 W1's sounds like fun but I think I'll get one dialed in first. The tube you mentioned came out with the "Daisies". There was a bit of a ridge in the port. I ground it out to just under 1 1/2" on my scrap head. When I do the good head, I'll grind and polish a slight radi to match the runner tube.

    Ron
     
  17. That engine I mentioned above is now $200

    I'm really trying to find excuses not to buy it, the main excuse being I don't currently have anything to put it in/build with it. I've always wanted to build a prewar style hot rod and this seems like a pretty good engine to build it around? I'd have to build a new shed if I was gong to build it though. (Win win?) :D

    They say it's a 1923/25 engine, is that a good engine? What is it specs wise?

    I may just have something to contribute to this thread soon. :D ;)

    Thanks

    Hayden
     
  18. Hayden,

    The pre '26 block is supposed to be stronger because it has the external distributor.

    The '26-'28 block has a hole for the distributor running down through the center main bearing web, making it weaker. I spoke with a gentleman in California, who simply reinforced the center web with steel plates- said it would fix the problem... don't know/haven't tried.

    Anyway, $200 for that engine is a great deal!
     
  19. Thank you!

    Bugger, that kind of means I have to get it doesn't it. :D

    I will inquire. :cool:

    Thanks

    Hayden
     
  20. youngster
    Joined: Feb 26, 2006
    Posts: 533

    youngster
    Member Emeritus
    from Minnesota

    You might want to watch for a '28 head to use with it.

    Ron
     
  21. Better yet, an Olds 3 port head... I hear there are more of them over in your neck of the woods for some reason, Hayden!

    Oh, when...er, I mean IF you do get the engine, could you make a tracing of the front cover for me?

    Thanks, Bill
     
  22. NORSON
    Joined: Jan 19, 2009
    Posts: 468

    NORSON
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    About the '28 block. It isn't like they just hogged a hole out for the distributor. They added reinforcement in the web area and the distributor "hole" has a quarter inch "wall" around it. They also added material to the lifter area and four webs to the side of the block for the lifter/pushrod covers. This could help with the problems noted earlier in this thread about cracks in the crankcase area. I weighed both blocks and the '28 block weighs 4.6 pounds more than the '25. I've been distracted with other issues lately but when I do get back to it, I'll be building a '28. - Norm
     
  23. Bigcheese327
    Joined: Sep 16, 2001
    Posts: 6,691

    Bigcheese327
    Member

    Sorry to digress, but I've got a sudden hankering to know how the '28 engine mounts in the frame originally. Anyone got a picture?

    -Dave
     
  24. Kume
    Joined: Jan 23, 2010
    Posts: 892

    Kume
    Member

    This pile of 1925 and 1926 chev parts just sold down here for NZ$300 or about US$200. Looks to be at least 6 blocks including 25s. I was tempted to bid but my shed is already full to the gunwales.
     

    Attached Files:

  25. Kume... WOW... just WOW!

    Norm- I see what you mean about the beefing of the distributor hole, but take a look at how close the oil filler hole is to cylinders 1 and 2... not alot of room for an overbore (not that alot can be taken anyway, but that caught my eye today)!

    Dave- the front mounts much like a Model A (one bolt through the front crossmember), while the rear has a solid mount dropout crossmember pancaked between the bellhousing and the transmission (two bolts on either side).
     
  26. NORSON
    Joined: Jan 19, 2009
    Posts: 468

    NORSON
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Working on buying a three port head. I paid $300 for the one I've got and after I got it I found it had problems, so I thought the price was high. The one I'm looking at will be more $$. I don't know how much more. My question is how much is too much? I'm not sure how much more I want to pore into this project. Any thoughts? - Norm
     
  27. Norm, they are getting harder to find, but the last gentleman I spoke with wanted $400 for one that was complete. Didn't get it, but wish I had (something about fiscal responsiblity kept ringing in my head)!
     
  28. NORSON
    Joined: Jan 19, 2009
    Posts: 468

    NORSON
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Mac
    I'm thinking it might be $400 and i'd most likely pay it. By the way I sent you a PM. Norm
     
  29. NORSON
    Joined: Jan 19, 2009
    Posts: 468

    NORSON
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Bill
    These are the pictures we "talked" about. The 270 pistons - the front engine plate - and the front water outlet. I'll pm you on the pistons (they are .060 oversize). The water outlet is from the '20's c4 and I think I could cut it down and cock it to the left a little. Then use body filler to fill it/flesh it out and then use it as a pattern for a mold. The question is cast iron or aluminum? I think this would be a good way of going because the shape would come close to the original. The only picture I've seen of an original was of JimmyB's and I think the "spout" was at a slight angle.
     

    Attached Files:

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.