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Projects 1925 Chev Roadster Build, 2 are better than 1...

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Jimmy B, Nov 2, 2020.

  1. So after I finished my first '25 Chev roadster in 2019 I decided it was good time to start building another '25 roadster. This time the roadster will be built the way I had originally intended the 1st one but way, way better (super detailed) a glutton for punishment some might say. I have been enjoying the 1st roadster but I really enjoy the build process.

    The engine will be a 1925 Chev 4 with 3-port head, Ford C crank and Chev FB. This part is still a ways off as I am still collecting parts for the engine build. Gearbox is '25 so to the diff. Front end is a '34 Axle '32 wishbones '36 spindles. Front brakes will be Boling bros Lincoln style brakes I also intend to adapt Lincoln style brakes to the rear and run early Ford 5 stud wheels all round. Steering box is a 1926-27 Chev.

    The idea I'm following for this build is what if Bob Giovanine & Chuck Spurgin instead of selling the engine and rolling shell rebuilt the car for the street. This project will take a few years I intend to have this build finished early 2025 to celebrate 100 year birthday of the '25 Chev.

    So I started with some bare rails and spare crossmembers and built a jig
    IMG_0004.JPG IMG_0005.JPG

    So once I got some uprights welded on I squared rails up then squared & levelled the chassis to the table. Once I was happy with how things measured I welded in the main uprights.

    IMG_0031.JPG IMG_0032.JPG
    After I got the uprights welded in I figured where the rails needed to be pinched since this will also have a track nose I pinched the rails more than my first chassis to be closer to the original Spurgin/Giovanine roadster. Once I figured the width I cut a piece of RHS 65x65mm 5mm wall. I squared everything and welded the crossmember in.

    IMG_0037.JPG IMG_0038.JPG IMG_0045.JPG IMG_0167.JPG
    This is a split wishbone kit Adam Tremellen in Victoria, Aus manufactures, high quality.

    This is the second suicide perch I made, I wasn't happy with the first.
    IMG_0414.JPG IMG_0422.JPG IMG_0423.JPG

    Using fibreboard I made a pattern for the wishbone mount once I was happy I transfered this to 4mm plate.

    to be continued....
    brEad, GordonC, KKrod and 13 others like this.
  2. IMG_0425.JPG IMG_0426.JPG IMG_0427.JPG IMG_0428.JPG IMG_0429.JPG
    So I decided to build a steering arm based on what the Spurgin/Giovanine had. I made this out of 1/4" plate, I will gusset and add a piece on 3/8 plate below or add a reamed bung for a for '34 tie-rod ball. This may need to be changed later if the engineer isn't happy
    IMG_0433.JPG IMG_0434.JPG IMG_0435.JPG
    IMG_0439.JPG IMG_0440.JPG IMG_0441.JPG
    Setting up where the Chev steering box will end up drag link is '34. Chev pitman arm will need to be taper added so I can use the '34 Ford tie-rod ball.
    IMG_0442.JPG IMG_0443.JPG IMG_0444.JPG IMG_0445.JPG

    I lost the build pics of the wishbone mounts but they bolt to the side rails and underneath.
    IMG_0612.JPG IMG_0613.JPG IMG_0614.JPG
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2020
    brEad, GordonC, loudbang and 10 others like this.
  3. Second try blackout wiped the last edit :mad::mad:
    So shortened the '32 bones 8" o_O:p
    I was happy how the wishbone mounts came out. The shape was inspired by the original spring hangers. IMG_0629.JPG IMG_0630.JPG IMG_0632.JPG IMG_0633.JPG IMG_0634.JPG IMG_0635.JPG IMG_0636.JPG IMG_0637.JPG IMG_0638.JPG IMG_0640.JPG
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2020
    brEad, GordonC, 35cab and 16 others like this.
  4. So I jumped around to different parts, one reason was waiting for parts, second I wanted to make sure I wasn't locking things in just incase I needed to change something.

    So once I got the wishbones mount I moved to the steering. I purchased this '27 box 10 years ago from a HAMBer.

    I bolted the drag link up and positioned the box where the geometry was correct. I made a pattern and mimicked the wishbone mount shape (this will be an ongoing theme). I also lined the bolts up with wishbone mounts:rolleyes:
    IMG_0698.JPG IMG_0699.JPG
    In this pic you can see where I cut the steering box mounting plate. I can pivot it to centre with driver later on, this was needed with the pinched rails.
    IMG_0706.JPG IMG_0707.JPG IMG_0708.JPG IMG_0709.JPG IMG_0710.JPG IMG_0712.JPG IMG_0715.JPG IMG_0716.JPG IMG_0717.JPG IMG_0718.JPG IMG_0719.JPG IMG_0720.JPG
    Last edited: Nov 3, 2020
    brEad, 35cab, Squablow and 14 others like this.

  5. Stogy
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 16,899


    Just my speed...bring it on @Jimmy B...;)
    loudbang and Jimmy B like this.
  6. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 11,589

    from Raytown Mo

    Oh hell yes
    loudbang and Jimmy B like this.
  7. Limey Kid
    Joined: Mar 5, 2006
    Posts: 1,014

    Limey Kid

    Loving this.
    Jimmy B and loudbang like this.
  8. So I got the body mounts welded in and it was time to get my boxing plates tacked in, I didn't want the usual flat boxing so decided to do something different... love it or hate :D This will more or less be an accent piece in the middle of the chassis.
    IMG_0757.JPG IMG_0764.JPG IMG_0765.JPG IMG_0766.JPG IMG_0767.JPG IMG_0768.JPG IMG_0769.JPG IMG_0770.JPG IMG_0907.JPG IMG_0908.JPG
    IMG_3581.JPG IMG_3582.JPG
    Lastly I had to pie-cut the rear kick up as '25 chassis didn't have the highest kick up. The original roadster was done differently, the way I did the rails flowed better. This is where I pretty much got up to before I went to the GNRS in January 2020 spent 3-1/2 weeks there got home 20th Feb.
    IMG_0910.JPG IMG_0914.JPG IMG_0916.JPG
    Yeah, Yeah, I can't take a selfie for shit!!! :D

    Attached Files:

    loudbang, TFoch, 302GMC and 8 others like this.
  9. That will be a good place to stop until morning.

    Sorry for the delay, fucking power went out second day in a row. :mad::mad:

    So back to it, all updates thus far is up to Jan 2020.
    I purchased this T crossmember from the US last year. Could not locate one here.
    I cleaned it up a bit before I put it in the critic acid

    Dunked the pedals, when I pull the parts out I hose off & than use water with baking soda which apparently neutralises the citric acid. So far this works and had no flash rust when part drys.
    Chev roadster boot hinges (Trunk)
    IMG_3634.JPG IMG_3635.JPG

    Decided to throw in the cowl that I plan to use
    IMG_3652.JPG IMG_3653.JPG IMG_3655.JPG IMG_3656.JPG

    When I cleaned the cowl after being dunked shit got a little spooky o_Oo_Oo_O
    I did not know what colour this cowl had been, just what showed in the pics above. So the colour that is coming thru on the dash and dash rail is fucking spooky close to the colour I have had in my minds eye for years.
    IMG_3667.JPG IMG_3672.JPG
    IMG_3677.JPG IMG_3680.JPG

    So this is the basic concept, (add windscreen and headlights) tone in concept is a little off but is similar to the colour I am looking at, teal to blue range.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Nov 4, 2020
    nunattax, Squablow, loudbang and 8 others like this.
  10. Back to the fab work.
    Next up I trimmed the T crossmember to sit inside the chassis and tacked it in place.
    This pic angle shows the effect I was after with these boxing plate, chassis kind of looks unboxed.
    Once I was happy I welded it up.
    IMG_3712.JPG IMG_3713.JPG IMG_3770.JPG
    Where I did the pie cut I decided to add a decent size plate on the inside of the rail may as well make it strong as possible.
    IMG_3761.JPG IMG_3767.JPG

    Next up made patterns for the kickup boxing plates then cut them in 4 mm steel (Chev chassis steel were 4mm in this era). mocked up below. IMG_3771.JPG IMG_3773.JPG

    I think this will do for tonight...
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2020
  11. 48fordnut
    Joined: Nov 4, 2005
    Posts: 3,828


    Quite the craftsman. Keep at it.
    Jimmy B, loudbang and Stogy like this.
  12. Austin kays
    Joined: Jul 24, 2016
    Posts: 425

    Austin kays
    from Raytown,MO

    Well ya got me hooked.. the first ones amazing so real excited to see what ya come up with for round 2!

    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
  13. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 11,589

    from Raytown Mo

    Man threads like these really stoke the fire for future projects. Really looking forward to this
  14. grumpy gaby 2
    Joined: Aug 10, 2019
    Posts: 101

    grumpy gaby 2

    Jimmy B, I see that you are making this one a left hand drive....
    Jimmy B, loudbang and Stogy like this.
    Joined: Nov 10, 2007
    Posts: 1,160

    from TX...

    :cool: Go man go!

    those bone mounts are kool.
    Jimmy B, loudbang and Stogy like this.
  16. Love those boxing plates! Lots of great details!
    Jimmy B and loudbang like this.
  17. burl
    Joined: Nov 28, 2007
    Posts: 669

    from Minnesota

    I really enjoy the chassis build stuff.Theres some great ideas i may have to steal for my 20 db roadster build.Check out the banger group on here theres some guys with great knowledge willing to share.
    Jimmy B, loudbang and Stogy like this.
  18. Rckt98
    Joined: Jun 7, 2005
    Posts: 982


    I was going to ask the same question. Are you allowed to scratch build a LHD in Aus?
    Jimmy B and loudbang like this.
  19. J.Ukrop
    Joined: Nov 10, 2008
    Posts: 1,324

    Staff Member

    Very cool. Great progress so far!
    Jimmy B likes this.
  20. Thank you! Still got a few more updates before I catch up to where I am at currently.

    Thanks for watching, I am excited to build this the way I wanted the 1st.

    Glad to provide a little inspirtaion.

    Yeah, this is left hook, like the 1st one was initially before going with RHD for drivability.

    Thanks Mate! Those mounts are awesome and super hi-quality.

    I always wanted to try something different with the boxing plates. I have been refining ideas for this build for the last 12 years, finally turning them into a reality.

    If I can give you ideas go for it. that would be cool to see a DB roadster.

    This car from the get go was intended to be built here with the intention once finished take it to the US. When I talked to the engineer about my plans he at that time said he saw no issues given my plans to export. Given the car is all original running gear works in my favour when going for compliance as that portion does not need approval, the areas need compliance will be the chassis mods, ie front end and rear suspension, chassis construction, etc. '25 Chevs did not have front brakes so any 4 wheel juice brakes are an improvement. The engineer needs to inspect the bare rolling chassis, at this stage if the engineer says no to LHD this is not the end of the world a days work to mirror what's been done then convert to LHD when time to export.

    Cheers Joey!!
  21. Tim
    Joined: Mar 2, 2001
    Posts: 11,589

    from Raytown Mo

    Your blue looks like model A ford dutches blue with a black primer/sealer underneath.
    Jimmy B and loudbang like this.
  22. Kume
    Joined: Jan 23, 2010
    Posts: 871


    Looks like you will complete two before I have finished one !!
    Jimmy B and loudbang like this.
  23. Another cool Chevy build! Love it :)
    Jimmy B and loudbang like this.
  24. Another day, another update.

    I purchased an original 30s/40s Mopar master cylinder like the original roadster ran and made up a bracket carrying the theme of other brackets :rolleyes:
    IMG_3777.JPG IMG_3778.JPEG IMG_3787.JPG IMG_3791.JPG IMG_3792.JPG
    Bit of a glimpse of what I am doing for rear shock mounts
    IMG_3794.JPG IMG_3795.JPG
    Start of the stainless exhaust
    IMG_3803.JPG IMG_3825.JPG IMG_3826.JPG IMG_3829.JPG IMG_3846.JPG IMG_3851.JPG IMG_3852.JPG IMG_3857.JPG IMG_3858.JPG IMG_3859.JPG IMG_3860.JPG IMG_3861.JPG IMG_3862.JPG IMG_3867.JPG IMG_3868.JPG IMG_3869.JPG
    Exhaust is inspired by the 1947 version of Spurgin/Giovanine roadster.
    brEad, Tman, nunattax and 9 others like this.
  25. This picture really illustrate the illusion of chassis being unboxed. IMG_3909.JPG

    Next up is the original brake mechanism crossmember. I used a spare gearbox mount as a kickup to get clearance around the torque tube.
    IMG_3882.JPG IMG_3883.JPG IMG_3884.JPG IMG_3885.JPG IMG_3891.JPG IMG_3892.JPG IMG_3893.JPG IMG_3894.JPG
    About this time I switched to the TIG to weld the boxing plates, still use the MIG on the tight areas I can't access with TIG.
    IMG_3920.JPG IMG_3921.JPG IMG_3922.JPG IMG_3923.JPG IMG_3924.JPG IMG_3925.JPG IMG_3926.JPG IMG_3927.JPG

    Attached Files:

    brEad, burl, TFoch and 3 others like this.
  26. Nice work man. You'll have a fleet soon.:D
    Jimmy B likes this.
  27. Next up I made a bender for the hydraulic press, this has helped make the crossmember needed to mount the rear radius rods.
    IMG_3935.JPG IMG_3936.JPG IMG_3937.JPG IMG_3938.JPG IMG_3939.JPG IMG_3940.JPG IMG_3941.JPG IMG_3942.JPG IMG_3943.JPG IMG_3944.JPG IMG_3956.JPG IMG_3957.JPG IMG_3958.JPG
    brEad, rotten ron, Squablow and 7 others like this.

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