The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by carlisle1926, Nov 10, 2012.
The Steeldraulic 4 wheel brakes did come out in August 1927, I typed 1929 by mistake.
I found some fork mounted Locomobile headlights on ebay that I liked better than my old marine spotlights. These are huge heavy lights. They came with two extra headlights and one more lens.
Lots of cool stuff going on this build. Keep at it!!
I found a $50 axle from a 1924 Dodge that had about 2-3" more drop than the stock 1923 axle. One of the issues that I was having with the front wheels were the later hubs that had much larger bearings. The spindles on this axle are about 1/4" larger in diameter than the 1923 axle, so when I order bearings, the wheels shouldn't flop all around anymore. I got a call last week from a guy with 5 of the 21" disk wheels that I need with decent tires on them. I hope to have them in soon. Then I will be able to safely roll the chassis around and out of my front yard!
The pieces/parts look good apart, can't wait to see them together. What sort of front brakes will you run?
I haven't figured out front brakes yet.
I should have a nice restored set of the 21" disk wheels and tires in soon. They are off of a 1920's Studebaker that used the exact same Budd wheel. I'm now in search of a machine shop to turn down my original wheel hubs and turn them into adapters to fit a 9" Ford that I will be using as the rear axle. The bolt pattern is a 5 on 6-1/2" bolt circle with an unusually large 4-1/2" alignment hole. That's all of the excitement for now.
The 21" Studebaker disk wheels and tires came in yesterday! Wow are these wheels nice. They are significantly larger than the 20" wheels that were on the rear of my speedster. The Dodge wheels are 29" tall and the Studebaker wheels are 33" tall.I've decided to use a much smaller and lighter 8" Ford 1969 Mustang axle rather than the 1968 9" Ford truck axle that I bought. I removed the Dodge brake drums and had my original Dodge hubs turned down so they will fit over the Ford axle. I had countersunk holes drilled in the Dodge hubs and tapped 5/8" fine threads into the Ford axle stud holes. The Dodge hubs can now be held on with five heavy duty flat head bolts that can't back out when the wheels is bolted on. So my rear axle issues are solved. Next I'll begin to modify the 8" Ford axle for installation. You will just have to see what I'm doing to the Ford axle when I'm done- if it works.
I decided that I didn't like the look of an 8" Ford axle sitting out in the open on this car. So, I cut out the center section of the original Dodge rear axle, cut it in half and then fitted over the Ford axle. This added about 20lbs to my axle, but I could carry around the 8" axle with no problem before, so I don't think this extra weight will have any ill effects on unsprung weight later on. I hope to weld the original Dodge brake backing plates behind the Ford plates. I should be able to do so without causing any problems getting to the wheels cylinders later on. i want this axle to appear period correct for a 1910's racer.
I got the 8" Ford axle under the chassis today. I'm stunned the axle tubes were exactly the same size as the original Dodge axle tubes. The axle bolted right in with the original U-bolts. I might flip the mounts and put the axle on top of the springs to lower the rear of the frame. I also mounted the tires and wheels. I was able to roll the chassis into my driveway for the first time.
looks great , thanks for sharing your build photos , i like speedsters , very cool cars
neat idea. i'll be watching!
Great job disguising the modern rearend. When I read you were using an 8" Ford, I thought "oh no", but you made it right. Well done.
WOW! Details like this rear axle upgrade are what will make this speedster really stand out in a crowd. Well done! Bob
The 1911/12 National racer has an axle with a very similar appearance to mine. I want to make the extra support bar under mine like the National axle.
With the five spring rear suspension, that will definitely look vintage.
Nice start.I like what you did with the rear end.
Wow, that is cool. I can hardly wait to see what you're doing with the backing plates. Ought to be inspiring as well. Subscribed.
theres the engine I'd use
the mack museum has a list of parts vendors, and you'd be surprised as to how many parts are still available
that big 6 with a slew of carbs in a row sticking out of the hood would look real cool
And you could name the car "Big Mack"!
very cool build! but the way i see it, you have five rear springs - you need five headlights on that rig. use all that you showed us, plus one more!
I've been down sick for most of the year, so no neat updates. The only real update, is I bought a rebuilt 1954 Chevy 235 and a 1954 Chevy cab over engine updraft intake manifold. I think this is what I'll use for the engine in the car. It isn't a very exciting engine, but it will be reliable.
I didn't read this whole thread. have you searched Morton and Brett? They built and sold speedsters built on the Dodge and Ford chassis when they were hot stuff. Made Indy cars out of them also. And a cool OHV conversion had for the Dodge.
I've never heard of them before. I'll research it.
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