The Jalopy Journal
Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by rdomeck, Sep 26, 2013.
A little test fit..... Good for the next couple of years at least!
This is such a nice build!
Like the boattail, and the belly pan.
The rumble seat is such a great ideer, I'm surprised it's not something we see more oftend!!
I Think about doing the same thing with my 28/29 Chevy build.
Just because I like it so much.
There is another speedster build on here with a 28 Chevy too. And he left his more open at the bottom.
But that might be because of the two eliptic rear spring set up.
But non the less two damn good ideer.
Are you happy with your wheels? I'm thinking about converting them with a Ferguson 19"x4 inch rim and using the Chevy center.
Because I'm a little scared about have a 3-piece rim held together by bolts.
But it might just be me being Chicken.
My guess is you will eventually end up in the back and they will be in the front. Great progress and I really enjoy watching the build go forward. Thanks!
Pumpman, I believe you are correct.... But it will be about 10 years.
Volvo, I am very happy with the wheels. These cars just don't take nearly the stress that modern cars do at the wheels. Unless I were to put some super grippy tires on these wheels I have no problems with them!
Thanks for the comment guys. Another weekend past and no work on it. This weekend was filling in the hole to cover my plumbing, using the loader to push a bunch of brush and overgrowth out of the way. Replacing a toilet and a kitchen sink and.... Going to a good friends house and doing a tile job for him.
Needless to say I will not be making it Newport or the ROG. My new goal is to be able to drive it around for a few miles before it gets to cold and then spend the winter fixing all the little things with it and getting it into paint.
Haven't made any progress in the last couple of months. I have been working way to much. The time to turn down work is never.... Hope to spend a day or two during the Christmas break to something on it...
Glad to hear I'm not the only one in that situation. Hopefully this winter will allow more work on the car than in the office. Look forward to see more progress on the speedster.
It doesn't seem like much but I did get the doors opening and closing correctly today as well as the latches taken apart, sandblasted, modified, mounted and working as they should. Trying to get all this stuff complete before the skin goes on..... I will be working on the windshield frame tomorrow to make sure I have enough mounts for it before I put metal on. Hope to post some pics of it in metal by the end of the week.
Well... No real progress. I did manage to get my 46 2-ton cab restored and back in usable condition. With the help of my awesome employee's that is. Hoping to work on it some in April...
My truck picture below. Came out pretty awesome
Made some very good progress today. Hope to get in 8-10 hours tomorrow. I have most of the sheet metal on and it is about 50% welded. I still need to skin the doors.
Will post up some photo's tomorrow!
Where's the pics?! The structure looks good!
If you are still in the fabric mode we have been building a Bearhawk that is all aluminum wings with steel tube & fabric fuselage. We used the Stewart System with heavy Superflite fabric. The products are waterborne and easier to use than the traditional dope system like Polyfiber. Our flying clubs Supercub was redone a couple years ago with Polyfiber dope that has fisheyes & is cracking already. They had to do a patch beside the door on its annual inspection as the paint had broke down. Disappointed with the last fabric work. The plane also had a fabric job about 10 years ago so we steered clear of dope. Urethane is expected to have a much better life.
The Stewarts fabric glue works amazing & is easy than traditional fabric glues. Stewarts have their manuals on line & a lot on Youtube. We used the entire system including their urethanes with a light metallic. The finish is smooth & car like. The fabric still needs to be filled with coats of UV inhibitor, once it is filled a very light wipe with fine sand paper & then a couple coats of Stewart primer. We made sure that it had a good primer coat so it can be sanded smooth without getting through to the fabric. Resist any urge to sand when applying the UV filler coats until they are all on as it creates a velvet surface that will stand up with subsequent coats making a sandpaper like surface. Oversanding would be an issue with any product line.
The Stewart System DVD's are excellent for the whole process. Fabric is easy to learn & work with. The biggest concern is the reinforcing tapes and should air get under the fabric then it may need to be rib stitched to the stringers. Some show planes will use two layers with one with all the reinforcing & stitching & then a second fabric applied to give a smoother appearance. My partner was telling me that he watched a fellow recovering a Russian trainer with fabric and it used an invisible stitching method. More to fill your head with. With Stewarts, they are always at the other end of the phone if you need them. Stewarts can be purchased directly or through a distributor like Aircraft Spruce.
One cautionary note is that Stewarts and other waterborne urethanes are sold as eco friendly which can give a sense that they are harmless. Waterborne urethanes are as dangerous to humans as regular urethanes and need to be used with the same safety practices for paint. Spraying waterborne product is different but if you follow their instructions and do a little practice it is easy to master. The spray method is different than reducer based product. It actually is easier once you get comfortable with it. The paint is applied in a continuous series of cross coats to color saturation is reached then it is allowed to dry to a slight tack then one wet top coat applied. It glosses out nice.
The military apparently developed the fog coat/gloss coat process for Stewarts type products to simplify & speed up the painting process.
One partner puts two wetcoats on but we believe he gets carried away and over saturates to develop some texture so he has to use more paint to gloss it out. We take it just past saturation and one wet coat like they recommend & get excellent results. Our partner is using 2x the paint which is counter productive to making a light airplane.
Something else to maybe look at is Bear Mountain or Laughing Loon canoes that are wood stripped canoes with an epoxy fiberglass covering. I have the wood & router bits to make a canoe but that will have to wait a winter or two before that might start. Another method is cold molded boat construction that would be more like how a boat tail car may have been built. Cold mold construction is similar to some woodie roof construction so it would look period correct. Could even use copper canoe nails like some cars had. Either method would work. The wood can be sanded out nicely, would be light & strong. The epoxy glass could be painted or sprayed with a marine spar varnish to protect the epoxy from UV if you want to show the wood.
A little different direction for car building but an interesting one. All the best with your build.
So not only do you have a cool speedster, you also have one of the nicest Chevy truck models a around. So a speedster and a Art Deco, in one thread, that's plain Epic!
Where is the build thread for the Art Deco truck?
I was wondering when you would get back on the speedster. Looking good and nice work. Keep going!
I will put a few more coats of paint on the wood before the body goes back on. Metal is in sealer inside and out. Ready for a little body work and hopefully some paint
The build thread on my 46 2-ton Chevy. http://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=698085#Post698085
Some more progress. Wood painted body color. Body glued to wood using body panel adhesive and screwed and clamped in place. Will let that set up and hopeful to start bodywork tomorrow or Monday.
Small progress again. I just wasn't happy with my door hinges. Took me a little while to come up with an idea that I was happy with. May get the doors fitted up to the body today with sheet metal... May be the key word!
And a good day making. Got the other hinges fitted up. Made the metal door frame for the door skin and managed to get the door skins made.
I think the hardest thing was not installing the metal parts on the wood frame. But I want this thing to last longer than it has taken to build it, so I put all the parts into epoxy primer first.
Ken here from BuildThreads, Inc.
Congrats and nice work rdomeck - this build thread was chosen as a Best Build Thread pick for this week.
What this means is that a bunch of guys who like to build stuff (cars, trucks, 4x4s, bikes, cabins, boats, planes, and garages) and have read a ton of build threads, thought that this build thread makes a valuable contribution to online DIY culture.
So, without further ado:
Congrats again and cheers!
Wow. Thank you. I am embarrassed to admit that I haven't worked on this much since my last post. It has been moved around a few times, but no actual work. Once I get my new daily driver ( an 82 Jeep Wagoneer ) back on the road I will continue on this build....
Well. A lot of things have happened since my last post. Don't know how long I can stay on it this time, but I'd now have the doors hung were I am happy with them. Latches are mounted. Very little work left before body work can start.
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