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Projects 1915 Ford street rod

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Retired, Jun 20, 2020.

  1. I like it.........especially with the T fenders and tall roof, even has the correct engine.........will be a great hot rod........andyd
     
    Thor1 and Retired like this.
  2. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 2,257

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    First I like the car....

    Jnaki,
    I believe what’s bugging you, that you quite can’t put your finger on is the same thing that’s bugging me.
    It’s the quarter window.

    We are used to seeing Tall Ts with stock bodies. That body is not stock it’s been made up probably from a Tudor or a combination of Tudor, maybe Fordor and Coupe parts. It looks to me to be....1920-25.
    Again it’s a neat car.
     
    Thor1, Retired, jnaki and 3 others like this.
  3. Closest I can find to 1915 are these 1919 models. I'd say the fenders on the car in question are 1915 and possibly the original frame?
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2020
  4. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 2,257

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    From 1909 to 1927 there’s 3 main groups of Ts. Early Ts (brass era 1909-1915) Mid Ts ( black radiator 1916-1925) Late T’s ( 1926-1927)
    The OP’s car is a Mid T body. I don’t think Ford made that style Coupe in 1915. There was a 1915 Couplet with similar lines but it had a fabric roof like the later Model A Sports Coupe.

    Good catch on the fenders as they do look like early T fenders.

    Many T’s are tagged or registered by the engine. There were many running changes to the bodies through those years but the engines remained basically the same from 1909 to 1927. The only big change was electric start about 1917.

    The engine was the only numbered part on most Ts. A later car could have been “tagged” by the earlier engine which was quite common.
     
  5. belair
    Joined: Jul 10, 2006
    Posts: 8,465

    belair
    Member

    Keep the fenders, and that's a hot rod, not a street rod. Great car.
     
  6. Retired
    Joined: Jan 4, 2009
    Posts: 154

    Retired
    Member

    Unfortunately I didn't take many photos when I first started building this car and I've had to do some digging to find the ones that I did take.

    Here are some of the body under construction and as you can see it was made up of pieces and parts.
    Starting with a cowl and doors, then putting on a rear window panel and making up the narrow quarter windows from pieces.
    The metal panel under the rear window is the front section of a roof from a 48 Plymouth car.

    f 001.jpg


    I first built the body with a wood framework with the metal panels nailed to the wood like Ford originally built them.
    Later I decided that I wanted a stronger framework so I took it all apart and started over using 1 inch square steel tubing for the frame work with the body panels welded to it.

    g 001.jpg

    The body is sitting upside down so I can weld the bottom of the panels to the framework.

    h 001.jpg


    I just took this photo of the inside this morning so you can get a better look at the square steel framework with the wood being added just as a filler.
    The top of the body has a flat sheet steel roof welded onto it with 1/2 inch plywood on the inside to support the roof metal and keep it from oil-canning.

    i 001.JPG


    Here are some photos of the frame being built and the engine being set in place.

    j 001.jpg

    A couple of photos of the finished frame.

    e 001.jpg
     
  7. loudbang
    Joined: Jul 23, 2013
    Posts: 29,900

    loudbang
    Member

    1.jpg

    What is the silver ribbed tank on the right rear for?
     
    Thor1, Stogy and F-ONE like this.
  8. Retired
    Joined: Jan 4, 2009
    Posts: 154

    Retired
    Member

    I've always classified a " hot rod " as being fender less and a " street rod as having fenders ".
     
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  9. F-ONE
    Joined: Mar 27, 2008
    Posts: 2,257

    F-ONE
    Member
    from Alabama

    I disagree.
    This is my opinion. There’s plenty of As-Ts-V8s and other makes and models with full fenders and running boards. They look good.

    A bone stock banger A that has ‘35 wires or ‘40 solids with a rubber rake is hard to beat in looks. It’s a basic hot rod.
    To me a Model A Hot Rod Tudor Sedan High Boy is missing something.......The Fenders!

    Tall Ts need fenders. They look too tall and incomplete without them.
    Think about it....they have it up high, they need something down low to fill them out. To me they look fuller, more substantial with full fenders. They’re more proportioned with fenders.

    With the possible exception of ‘26-‘27 roadsters just about all the T cars look much much better full fendered.

    ‘23 buckets are kind of they’re own thing going back to the Kookie Car and before that Isky’s roadster.

    I think we tend to remember the ‘70s resto-rod Street Rod Movement and tend to forget the earlier full fenders cars.
     
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  10. Retired
    Joined: Jan 4, 2009
    Posts: 154

    Retired
    Member

    That is a fuel divider.
    There is a fuel fill door on the left side of the turtle deck.

    DSC02281.JPG DSC02282.JPG

    From there the fuel flows into the top of that ribbed tank and then it is evenly dispersed to the two saddle tanks.
    There is an aluminum saddle tank inside the running board on each side.
    Here is one being built that shows the baffles in it.

    tank-1.jpg

    This is a view of the underside of one of the tanks showing the attached aluminum heat shield with the air space between it and the tank.

    tank-2.jpg


    One of the tanks shown mounted on the chassis.
    There is about 4 or 5 inch clearance between the top of the exhaust and the underside of the heat shield on the tanks.
    You can also see part of the ribbed tank with the inlet tube coming into the top and the outlet tube going out the bottom to the two tanks.
    Each tank has a tube at the top for the air to escape out of.
    The ribbed tank is the lowest point in the system and the electric fuel pump draws off the bottom of it.

    I figure this will give me about 25 gallons which is a lot more then most of " T " street rods / hot rods.

    tank-3.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2020
  11. Retired...... whether its a hotrod, streetrod or whatever it looks like its going to be a very nice ROD and I for one am enjoying all the details you have shown........I have always liked full fendered T's especially coupes and yours hits the mark.............great work and thanks for the updates & pics..........andyd.
     
  12. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 27,173

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Cool, that one has a lot of potential. The only thing I can see that I would change/undo is those holes for what ever tail lights were the plan in a time when too many guys stuck late model tail lights on early cars that now look out of place on those cars. The good thing is that it looks like most of the real hard work has already been done and most of what is needed is a spiff up, and get ready for paint.
     
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  13. Retired
    Joined: Jan 4, 2009
    Posts: 154

    Retired
    Member

    The open corners on the turtle deck are not for tail lights.
    I just hadn't had time to finish closing the corners in with metal before I put the car in storage.

    I will be using the model-T cowl lights like this for tail lights.

    shopping.png
     
  14. goldmountain
    Joined: Jun 12, 2016
    Posts: 1,945

    goldmountain

    I think that the corner holes would look great for taillights like the Gene Chann car from back in the sixties.

    Sent from my SM-T350 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
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  15. Mike Colemire
    Joined: May 18, 2013
    Posts: 1,219

    Mike Colemire
    Member

    I like fenderless hot rods but I do think yours looks better with fenders. The fuel tanks are a great idea, the whole car is pretty cool, glad you got to get it back out and finish it.
     
    Thor1 and Retired like this.
  16. @Retired -

    Your 1915 Ford Street Rod reminds me of the Coupe "version" of a car from my youth.

    In the early '70s, Sonny Hallsworth was a member of our Street Rod Club (Nor-Cal Early Iron) with his owner-built, blown 392 HEMI powered, Model T C-Cab:

    Ektachrome JUL 73 P6 (1).jpg
    Sonny with his C-Cab at the 1973 West Coast Mini-Nats in Lodi, CA​

    Sonny was a finish carpenter by trade, and hand-built the fiberglass body laid over an inner-structure of a (mortise & tenon joined) solid mahogany frame & gorgeous mahogany veneer panels.

    Sonny drove it everywhere!

    In 1973, he even towed his "ski boat" with his C-Cab to a rod run held at a Northern California lake:

    Sonny Hallsworth's C-Cab & Boat @ Lake Camanche - 1973.jpg
    Sonny's C-Cab & Boat @ Lake Camanche - 1973.jpg
    Sonny Hallsworth's Boat @ Lake Camanche - 1973.jpg
    Sonny's C-Cab & boat at Lake Camanche​

    It's because of Sonny's C-Cab, that I vote for FENDERS on your Model T Coupe!
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2020
  17. blowby
    Joined: Dec 27, 2012
    Posts: 6,728

    blowby
    Member
    from Nicasio Ca

    Well since everyone is offering their take on what to do:

    Finish the body as is, with fenders, it's perfect. Paint it black.
    Button tufted interior, burgundy or chestnut.
    Polish up the Hemi.
    Give it to me.
     
  18. Country Joe
    Joined: Jan 16, 2018
    Posts: 218

    Country Joe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Like a roadster.
     
  19. Retired
    Joined: Jan 4, 2009
    Posts: 154

    Retired
    Member

    Going off the main subject here but still related to it. ......

    This is the original frame and engine from the Model-T.
    It had been in an accident and you can see that the frame is bent and the engine is leaning to the passengers side.

    T 001.jpg

    My son has always liked to help me with my projects and he is working on cleaning up the frame after I had gotten it straightened out.
    He did a good job and we got it all painted up.
    I don't remember just when these photos were taken but that little boy in them is 48 years old now and stands 7 inches taller then me .... so it has been awhile.

    T 002.jpg

    Somewhere along the line, I had picked up fenders, running boards, pickup box and windshield from a 1917 model-T roadster pickup.
    The guy was building a period correct circle track race car and kept the the frame, engine, body, hood and radiator for it.
    For a little extra money, he let me have the clear 1917 title to go with the discarded body parts.

    Taking into consideration what restored model-T's are selling for now, it is sometimes hard to believe that they weren't worth very much back in the 60's and 70's.

    I got a radiator and hood at a swapmeet so ... with my frame and engine and the other T sheet metal, I had a good start to build an original T.

    2a.JPG

    This bunch of T parts also sat in storage until about 11 years ago when I got it out and started working on it.
    With a cowl and a dashboard that I got off ebay, I started building an open truck body for the T

    21-1.JPG


    I used 1 inch square steel tubing to form the main framework for the cab and I formed the panels out of sheet metal.
    Here the lower back panel is ready to be welded to the framework.

    30.JPG


    The frame is made up for the roof and the metal is welded to the sides.

    34.JPG


    Then the top panel is fastened onto it.

    35.JPG


    And it is test fitted to the cab framework.

    36.JPG


    Here I'm forming the upper panel for the back of the cab.

    38.JPG


    And it is welded in place.

    39.JPG


    The side panels are made up and welded onto the cab frame.

    49.JPG


    The quarter windows and top section are fastened in place.

    51.JPG


    The engine was completely rebuilt and hopped up a little with an aluminum high compression head, 2-barrel carburetor.
    It had a distributor with a single coil and a timing tab mounted over the crankshaft pulley with a top dead center mark on the pulley.

    133.JPG
    134.JPG


    It also had a water pump added and a larger outside oil line to feed oil to the front of the engine.
    It has an aluminum oil pan to hold more oil and a dipstick added for more accurately checking the oil level.
    ...... The original model-T had two small brass spigots on the bell housing for checking the oil level.
    You had to get under the car to check them.
    If oil flowed out of the top one, it was too full ... if no oil flowed out of the bottom one, it was too low. .......

    101.JPG


    This is what the T looked like when I sold it.

    126.JPG
    127.JPG

    129.JPG


    The new owner sent me these photos after he had finished it.

    pics from camera 1-29-10 212.jpg
    pics from camera 1-29-10 214.jpg

    pics from camera 1-29-10 218.jpg

    pics from camera 1-29-10 215.jpg

    pics from camera 1-29-10 217.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2020
  20. Corn Fed
    Joined: May 16, 2002
    Posts: 2,753

    Corn Fed
    Member

    Your T coupe is going to need a wild paint job and lots of chrome/brass to give it a 60's show car feel.
     
    -Brent- and Retired like this.
  21. jnaki
    Joined: Jan 1, 2015
    Posts: 4,658

    jnaki

    https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...-earn-their-keep.1193423/page-3#post-13628603


    upload_2020-6-23_4-42-23.png upload_2020-6-23_4-42-55.png

    Hello,

    When I added a short story to the flatbed truck thread, it was Norman “Rabbit” Samuels’ Hot rod flatbed truck. As much as I tried, I just could not get the Model T fenders to look correct. I have always thought those early fenders did little to none in the way of mud slinging and tire coverage. Those skinny fender shapes did not do the Model T justice. But, who is to argue with Henry Ford?
    upload_2020-6-23_4-44-7.png

    The stock tall “T” flatbed truck had the standard look from this era and not much could be done to make it better. That is where hot rod people do their things to make a design fit their needs and wants. So, if you think your tall, custom cab, T and fenders is the correct look, then more power to you. We on the sidelines have some inkling of what we used to see and create from memories, a long time ago.

    This flatbed truck was a reminder of your set up with the supercharged motor sticking up in front. Rabbit Samuels had a history in drag racing in So Cal, as well as being associated with the classic hot rod used car lot in La Habra. So, he knows what a fast hot rod looks like and how it should perform.

    Good luck in your build, what ever way you decide to travel. We are all waiting to see the progress. With the locked in place time period about to start for everyone again, then you might have more time to spend on your build.

    Jnaki

    Yes, the photos and the alterations did make a dent in the overall look, but it is how you see your Model T as a complete build. We just offer our different looks and ideas for you to ponder.
     
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  22. flatheadpete
    Joined: Oct 29, 2003
    Posts: 9,755

    flatheadpete
    Member
    from Burton, MI

  23. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,528

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    WAYYYY COOOL!!!!

    The proportions of the shortened cab and that butt nasty blown hemi make it perfect. I hope youre not a tall guy, looks like tight quarters. I can see it chromed out and a major flash and trash 60s show car paintjob on it. Heres to awaking it from its long slumber and getting it on the road!
     
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  24. Retired
    Joined: Jan 4, 2009
    Posts: 154

    Retired
    Member

    [QUOTE="jnaki, post: 13638317, member:
    When I added a short story to the flatbed truck thread, it was Norman “Rabbit” Samuels’ Hot rod flatbed truck. As much as I tried, I just could not get the Model T fenders to look correct. I have always thought those early fenders did little to none in the way of mud slinging and tire coverage. Those skinny fender shapes did not do the Model T justice. But, who is to argue with Henry Ford?

    Jnaki
    [/QUOTE]

    I agree with you on the narrow fenders.
    They seam to work alright on the original T's with the narrow wheels but they sure don't cover today's wider tires and wheels.

    Rootlieb makes new T fenders and sells them thru the old car restoration catalogs.
    I called them and they made up a new set of fenders for me that are 3 inches wider then the stock T fenders so they cover the tires on my car.

    DSC02285.JPG DSC02284.JPG
     
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  25. Retired
    Joined: Jan 4, 2009
    Posts: 154

    Retired
    Member

    I have finished the project that I was working on and I'm ready to start on the T.
    First thing was to empty it out.

    DSC02301.JPG


    This is all the stuff that was stored inside the car.

    DSC02299.JPG


    The silver parts are the special exhaust system that I made up for it.
    These parts have a silver coating on them and I was told that the coating would be scratch, heat and rust resistant.
    Well .... I hope it is at least heat resistant because it certainly isn't rust resistant.

    DSC02300.JPG DSC02303.JPG


    The exhaust manifolds are built in two pieces for each side so I can get them on and off without having to lift the engine up.

    DSC02317.JPG


    Once they are mounted on the engine, then the lower pipe bolts onto them.

    DSC02305.JPG

    This is how the exhaust pipes fit together.
    The four outlet pipes at the back come out from under the running board just in front of the rear fenders and they will have chrome turned down tips on them.

    DSC02304.JPG


    I copied an idea for the steering that was used on the Ford T-Birds in the early 60's
    The upper part of the steering column is mounted with ball bearings to a curved piece of solid square steel.
    Behind the dash, there is an electric powered Acme screw rod that is attached to the steering column.

    DSC02309.JPG


    When you flip a switch to the right, the electric motor turns the threaded rod and the steering column slides over toward the center of the car to allow more room for getting in and out.

    DSC02308.JPG

    DSC02311.JPG


    When you flip the switch to the left, it brings the steering column back to the driving position.

    DSC02302.JPG


    The steering shaft is connected to the steering box with a universal joint so the column can move over no matter where the tires are positioned.

    DSC02306.JPG


    I also have one of these screw motors in the back for a power trunk lid.

    DSC02318.JPG

    There are two windshield wiper post up under the visor.

    DSC02312.JPG


    They are connected together on the inside and have a cable attached to them.

    DSC02313.JPG


    The other end of this cable runs back over the passenger door and connects to an operating bracket under the seat.

    DSC02316.JPG


    This bracket is operated by a 2-speed electric wiper motor with intermittent pulse settings.

    DSC02314.JPG
     
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2020
  26. Gearhead Graphics
    Joined: Oct 4, 2008
    Posts: 3,528

    Gearhead Graphics
    Member
    from Denver Co

    i just love this project
     
  27. Retired
    Joined: Jan 4, 2009
    Posts: 154

    Retired
    Member

    I took it down to the carwash and it cleaned up a lot better then I had thought it would.

    This has rack&pinion power steering and power brakes.
    The 57 Hemi engine has a Chevy water pump, starter and 700R-4 automatic transmission adapted to it.

    DSC02319.JPG
    DSC02320.JPG
    DSC02321.JPG
    DSC02322.JPG
     
  28. Mike Colemire
    Joined: May 18, 2013
    Posts: 1,219

    Mike Colemire
    Member

    Pretty cool stuff right there!
     
    Retired, loudbang and Thor1 like this.

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