Sounds to me like its just rusty in the water jackets. That is to be expected and every engine, including the one in my car is very rusty in the water jackets. The main thing is there is very little or none in the cylinders. If the engine turned over it will run without question. @Hitchhiker is 100% right, it doesn't matter what it looks like as long as it turns. If you end up buying it you can always stop at a car wash and stick the power wash nozzle into the upper water outlet to flush out and crud. Post up a pic if you have one!
I have been following a cool build called '' THE REPLAY ROADSTER,40sT ON A RAILS''. Sure its a glass T but the rest fits here. Check it out Nelsoncoupe, you may get some ideas. JW
Hey guys, So far this morning has been productive! I ignored some "no trespassing violators will be prosecuted" signs and met a pretty cool dude with a lot of old cars! We are gonna try and find a way to work payment out on some of his stuff. He collects flatheads and model A stuff. I'm heading to the Danville car show today so if anyone is going message me! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
my suggestion nelson is to look past the flathead for now since this will be a daily driver go for practical something that can be had for cheap and can be heard running. your frame and rear end should be ok just needs to be cleaned up(wire wheel on a angle grinder works well I would wear a good face shield as I have has some bad experiences with them) get someone who knows how to weld to teach you. im not older then you and starting my own project with nothing more then a engine and a rear end you learn to scrounge up parts quick
Doodlebugs are often dollar for dollar one of the best ways to get working Model A parts. Even the sheetmetal is usually good because they were maintained and run for a long time and elevated high above the dirt when they were parked.
Don't want to rain on the parade, but the first thing to do before you spend any money on parts, if you don't have a valid title for the car, find out what you must do get it titled and registered the car in your state. Nothing worse than getting it all together and not be able to get it on the road.
Sweet. Keep it up. I stop by places all the time with old cars. I built a car at your age and it's for sure doable. I was building long travel sand cars and playing with pre runner trucks at the time and leaned a lot. I started sweeping floors and plasma cutting tabs in high school. When I left I was a " manager" and had keys to the place. Find a place and work after School and weekends if your schedule allows it. "Insert Epic Quote Here"
And if you can work out some labor for trade with that guy, that's a great way to build character and various skills that will come in handy as you get older. Knowing how to maintain a piece of land is never a bad thing. And if you can get him to have you help him with working on his cars, engines, &/or tractors as part of the deal, that's an obvious benefit. As for @charlieb66 's concerns about getting titled, registered, & on the road, they are very valid concerns. I happen to have the link to SEMA's answers on the subject for all 50 states right here though: http://www.bipac.net/page.asp?content=tag_title_toolbox&g=SEMAGA California HERE (PDF)
For sure. Best way to learn what you want and how to do things without making mistakes and wasting your cash. "Insert Epic Quote Here"
Hey Nelson Coupe. I would maybe edit the first post and keep a running list of all the parts you have already received/ bought so people know which direction you are headed and what you will need. This way people have a quick reference right up front and don't have to search? Someone might have a better idea though. "Insert Epic Quote Here"
Here`s another piece of advice that comes from my Grandfather and Father. They used to tell me"Boy,slow and sure beats the hell out of quick and dead". Good ;luck.Have fun.Be safe. Leo
For titling it, there are no numbers on the frame. I'll have to register it as a kit car through SB100. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Get the chassis built FIRST, then after you've slept on it and read and listened to some graybeards who have been there; choose the drivetrain that best suits your purpose. You may stick a flathead in it and NOT like it. Same with the SBC/SBF/whatever. But above all be SAFE. And its just steel; can always change it later. Still don't have anything in my roadster after 10 years, been everything from a twin turbo 496 BBC to a 4.6 Ford on the floor in front of it though. Take your time, enjoy the build. And networking is a great way to make friends and learn some skills. You may be better at welding than your bud who's a great painter but cant wire like the guy that needs some mounts made. Trading and helping others makes for a bunch of rodders goin down the road in a pack.
Look on the TOP of the left frame rail under the cowl area. The body has to be lifted. Wire brush it real good, even use rust removing products. The number is there. It will be easier to use that number then trying to title it as a kit car.
Finding a Model-A chassis with Title isn't hard. You want to drive this soon then build it stock early ford with juice brakes. Skip the daily driver idea and get a small modern car for the daily chores. Back when I was young cheap 15 year old cars were rusted out junk. Now 15 year old give away cars look like new. That way you'll enjoy the hot rod more and not be stuck when something breaks on it. Ed
there is numbers there you just got to find them under the rust wire brush the frame till you can see the numbers and if they are still hard to see rub some chalk on it. and the big thing is don't pay much attention to the people who say buy something else for a daily driver id love to be driving a hot rod or something made before then 90's(80's cars are getting rare up here) everyday but sadly the winter is not too kind in many ways big one being salt and other chemicals to melt ice these will rot out a car like no tomorrow
I was 23 years old, married, and a new born daughter when I began my Model A coupe project. With only one income to support our family, I also had a VERY tight budget. My coupe was in worse condition than your roadster. My advice to you is to stay focused on the task at hand. It will way too easy to spend available money on pretty items that you are years away from using - this is a mistake that I made from time to time. This mistake will delay driving the car rather than helping. On a tight budget, be prepared for this project to take years. If things fall your way and you're able to make great strides, that will be a blessing. Just be mentally prepared for the project to take a long time. I used an original frame for my car. I saved up and bought aftermarket suspension pieces, which delayed seeing the car on wheels. In the mean time I worked on getting the body repaired. Here's a photo of the car, following a few years of work
My first car was a '29 A coupe. It ran, but had no glass, no top, no wiring other than what it took to keep the engine going, and by the time I drove it home after purchase, had only one brake rod connected and operational. It took me a few months to solve those issues and rebuild the engine, and I was doing it while going to college and working a minimum-wage job, but it can be done. Also, it was my daily driver for two years, highway speeds and all, with mechanical brakes and everything else stock. Ideal? maybe not, but I learned to drive defensively and cautiously, and never had a wreck. You can do it, too, and have a great time doing it.
Hey guys sorry I havnt been posting for awhile. I had surgery and hot rods were not on the mind, but I'm back, and I have an inspiration for my build! It's a 29 ford built in 1962 by Irv Ross from B.C. All the specs of his frame, engine, and interior are in my possession. It's a miracle I even found it. It's a sweet little car and I cannot wait to start building mine like it!
If you choose to run the cycle fenders, I'd recommend using 3/4" dia. DOM steel tubing w/a .125 thick wall for mounting them. It won't crack and you can weld mount tabs to the tubing where it meets the spindles at the front-end, and make similar bracket-plates to attach to the rear end. ~ 6'-6" of length bent into an L and then 90* across the tire, use a shim to bend for clearance over the tread.
I have been given a 1928 ford roadster body! All it is is a shell with no doors or windsheild frame or trunk or floor, but it's a start! I am looking for a frame right now, either stock or already dropped. This is going to be a badass traditional hot rod with a flathead V8! If anybody has any parts, tires, wheels, doors, steering wheel, axles, seats, tranny, driveline, springs, guages... Everything that goes with a roadster, I will gladly take them. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Here's a suggestion: Find a few photos of cars like the one you'd like to build. Post them here on this thread. That way those who might be able to help you will see what you need to compete your build instead of just guessing about the style and the appropriateness of the parts they may have. PS: This will also get your juices flowing and help pull you along during the long period between now and when the car is finished. Good luck!
Its always fun to know if there is any back ground to the body? Looking at the photos ,It looks like it was a dragrace car body,with the "X" an how rear wheel wells are cut away. Thats a really great start,I have a 28A roadster hotrod my self ,I built mine in 1959 at age 17 it was running after hunting parts in 1957 though 58 ,and just did a full refresh again over the last few years,I'm 72 young now. Built a lot of rods and racecars over the years and had great fun with them,the guys an gals ya meet along the way are priceless. As old guy now,it always feels good to see youth start on a rod. I could if ya wished send to your in box some info I found over the year can save ya some misstakes,but they are from right coast point of view. I have some drawings somewere of making your own roadster doors too,if your into sheetmetal working? My rebuild is on HAMB also,incase there is a tip or two you could use off that; http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/working-on-my-hotrod-28a-from-1959-rebuild.793393/
Lovely Pleasanton california, where the kids are mean and the cops don't care. I want my roadster to be clean and simple like this, but much lower. I want my car to be channeled 7 inches. I'm going to have to Z the frame. For the interior I want my elbow to be able to rest comfortably on the door. I don't want to be sitting super low in my car. I'd want larger tires in the back... Firestone bias ply blackwall. Hold my beer and watch this!
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