*#* 1243 is the order for the Dec 2013 Banger Meet*#*

Hey Steve Email or Text me your Address and I will send one your way.


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Thanks for the input guys It looks like I was over thinking again...
Why fix it if isn't not broke...


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Steve,
the caps can be shortened similar to rod caps and then resized. (grind or cut mating surface to close down bore).
This is not easy, nor is trying to resize a linebore that is muffed up.
A solid mandrel alignhone can fix this if it is not too far out of spec.
There are bearings with 2.146 bore in the block and will work nicely if someone tried to use chevy rod bearings.
Assuming this is B block, in A block, it can be challenging but done.

 

I always treat any engine as if the linebore of bearings have been done wrong it is suprising the number of blocks that are slightly out the guys who do my engine work have had great success in curing veteran engines that have given problems for years because of exactly this. Remember the crank has to be in alinement with the camshaft.

 

If this is an A block, then there is another way to fix it. If you don't mind going to insert bearings. Use Corvair rod bearings. They are 1.800" bearing dia. and the block will be bored to a little under 2". This is the largest bearing inserts you can use in an A block with out cutting into the main cap bolts.

To do this you will have to have a B crank ground to the 1.800" bearings and either have the rod journals cut down to A spec or use B rods.

The advantage here is a stronger bottom end for the A engine.

Remember, you don't need to go to full pressure with insert bearings.

.

 

Just to bring my question up to speed and simplify issues (I hope)....

During the production of model A' & B' blocks, the blocks & caps were only rough machined because they were going to have babbit poured and then be align bored for the crank. I currently have 2 cracked B' blocks w/o babbit; the main journal sizes range from 2.060 to 2.069, with the fronts centers & rears varying as much as .002 on each I.D.

This block is bored to 2.142 +/- (as accurately as I can measure it) and the new inserts available from Rich @ AER, are 2.138 O.D. His suggestion was to lay in a backing of shim stock behind the shells and try that - it all sounds good, but I wonder about the "crush", or lack there of, if there is a shim behind the shell? There are NO MARKINGS on the inserts that came out of this block.... I am looking for an insert by its I.D. / O.D. and not by an application . I have 2 B' and 1 C' crank shafts that can be ground to fit an inserts I.D. - I feel my situation is a learning experience for all of us!

Sooooo... Do you think I should continue to look for an insert to fit this block, or hone it and find an insert to fit the hole... (once it is align honed & probably have an even larger I.D.) OR, should I find someone qualified with experience & knowledge to babbit this and bring it back to life? Is there anyone that you might recommend, based upon the above measurements, that could rescue this engine with either inserts or babbit.?

I am not being stubborn - any block I build will need babbit or inserts, any block I build will need pistons - rods - cam etc; this one is already sleeved, new pistons & rods, and either inserts located or a babbit job. I just did not want to scrap this thing and then start over. Your questions & or comments are always welcomed. Thanks, Steve

 

Steve,

If this is a "B" block and the bores are 2.342Ø then have the bolts been moved over?
The std cl for bolts is 2.750 if you take .500 (nom bolt OD) you would be at 2.25 between the bolts.

I have had no problems with boring blocks to 2.146Ø for inserts, it usually cleans about 2.130

Dan,

there is a Saturn bearing that requires a 1.850Ø crank journal and fits between the "A" block bolts. (it leaves .007 from bore to side of bolt)

John

 

I had a brain fart and read my handwriting wrong.............
Stock B' block w/o babbit = 2.060 I.D.
My B' block is bored to 2.142 + (one end of the rear cap is @ 2.145)
Inserts from Rich @ AER = 2.138 O.D.

The inserts that were in the block appear to be from a connecting rod because of the size / width, and the rear main has 2 of them side by side.

With the above information corrected, anyone have an idea on how to save this thing? I put my bifocals on and re checked the caliper .

 

Here is a partial list, better get your magnifying glass I have an insert, ACL # 3m2204, from an Austin and probably other engines in this group that requires, according to ACL, a bore of 2 .146

 

Loving this thread so much very important information keep it going guys let us know what you have tried also what your failures were thanks.

 

Nice list Bill Thanks for posting


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Any one got the arp part # for flywheel bolts handy ?

 

I noticed Flathead Jack has a set with a new heavier retaining ring in his online catalog. My latest attempt found ARP no longer lists the early V8 bolts which are/were essentially the same. In some cases you have to purchase 6 bolts in a set from ARP or vendors when searching by size.

 

I got a set for the flathead v8 that was my understanding as well that they were the same but there about 3/16 or so to long might cut them if nothing else

 

You can use ARP #330-2801 set.
From what I understand, they are about 1/32" too long.

J

 

John,
Are these drilled for safety wire?


.

 

I don't think so, the application is a chev motor and tilton flywheel.

Jim B gave me this data some time ago after shaking a flywheel loose.

J

 

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No they aren't drilled, they have larger heads, need a 3/4 12 point. I learned about them from Mike Hart. I use loctite. Had a REM AL flywheel installed with a shim and it came loose when shim moved but the ARP bolts were still tight. Now I'm installing another 11.5 lb. AL forged flywheel and replacing dowels with 1/2 20 bolts made out of 3/4 " hex 41L40 bar ends that I'm heat treating and will draw back to about 40 45 Rc. Also switching to a 10" diaphragm clutch.

 

ALL I WANT FOR CHRISTMAS !!

 

Forget the part number but I ordered arp bolts there for a sbc to flex plate right length see if they have the right shoulder and head


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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oSbnSLh4bRE
Here's a Cool video, nice Banger Hot Rod.

 

Xmass comes early here off to the beach in our summer sun Best wishes to you all.
Rusty the South Seas

 

Merry Christmas from a new Banger.

 

You all might to look this Banger Model T project engine, pretty killer!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281231162580?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649athi

 

years ago 1970's ford built a 2.3 out of plastic until the beginning of the month my broth-in-law sold plastic. it can be hard or soft with different wear factors depending on what is used in the resin, he sold plastics to make hub caps to rear main seals to plastic motors.

 

and so it starts.............

 

Will this head be two piece?


.

 

Only if it puts up some decent numbers on the lakes.
It looks pretty good on the flow test, now to test with fuel.

J