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Hot Rods # 10 Track Roadster Build- Marty Strode

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Marty Strode, Jan 24, 2020.

  1. CTaulbert
    Joined: Apr 8, 2007
    Posts: 1,120

    CTaulbert
    Member
    from Detroit

    I'm actually a bit north of Detroit by about 45 miles - Frank was another 30 miles or so north of me! While I'm a transplant to Michigan, I did get to see him and his cars around before he passed.
     
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  2. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,834

    Marty Strode
    Member

  3. hotrod1948
    Joined: Jan 17, 2011
    Posts: 455

    hotrod1948
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Milton, WI

    Frank was from Bay City but spent a lot of time in the Detroit area “fooling around on the street”
     
    loudbang likes this.
  4. DDDenny
    Joined: Feb 6, 2015
    Posts: 13,433

    DDDenny
    Member
    from oregon

    Oh how handy those little drill press vises are for welding setups!
    I can't count how many times I struggled before I looked over at my drill press and had the biggest light bulb moment.
     
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  5. GearheadsQCE
    Joined: Mar 23, 2011
    Posts: 2,473

    GearheadsQCE
    Member

    Marty,
    Looking at your hose clamp, wondered if you drill the hole or ? I am trying to figure out how you hold it while drilling. Will a drill press vise hold it? Seems a bit scary to me:eek:
     
    loudbang likes this.
  6. lake_harley
    Joined: Jun 4, 2017
    Posts: 942

    lake_harley
    Member

    I won't try to answer for Marty, and I really can't remember how I got holes in the SS hose clamps I used to tack tubes, but one idea would be to tighten the clamp on a length of tubing and then clamp the tube secure to hold it while drilling the hole through the clamp strap using the tube as a "base". That would minimize the clamp from getting snagged by the drill bit and getting twisted or slung around. Since it's SS, a good, really sharp drill bit is required.

    I'll butt out now.

    Lynn
     
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  7. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,834

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Bruce, I showed this on the RPU Thread, and I don't usually use current buzz phrases, but here goes, a Harbor Freight step drill, makes it "Easy Peasy". IMG_4765.JPG IMG_4766.JPG
     
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  8. GearheadsQCE
    Joined: Mar 23, 2011
    Posts: 2,473

    GearheadsQCE
    Member

    I don't know how I missed that. I usually study all your pics pretty thoroughly. That is a very slick way to do it. I could imagine twisting it all up trying to hold it in a drill press vise.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  9. J. A. Miller
    Joined: Dec 30, 2010
    Posts: 1,320

    J. A. Miller
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Central NY

    Yes, us old timers use "piece of cake".
    Marty, the headers look great. While you're on a roll are you going to make the "race" headers for the RPU?
     
    loudbang likes this.
  10. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,834

    Marty Strode
    Member

    20 years ago, when I first used this process, I used a plasma cutter, but this is much better.
     
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  11. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,834

    Marty Strode
    Member

    J.A. , I think I will move on to getting the rest of the fabrication done, and get it on the strip. When building the competition set, I am going to build a fixture off these, to build them on the table. That will make it "A Piece Of Cake", how's that for a little retro jargon !
     
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  12. Thank god for step drills!!
     
    Stogy, 1940Willys, Jet96 and 3 others like this.
  13. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,834

    Marty Strode
    Member

    I worked on the front shock towers today, that also serve as bumper and headlight mounts. This process is a derivative of the the ones that I built for Dwarf Cars, numbering in the hundreds. Having some of the laser cut plates, along with CNC bumper bungs in stock, certainly saves time. A u-shaped bracket, welded to the wishbone will be the lower shock mount. IMG_4865.JPG IMG_4866.JPG IMG_4868.JPG IMG_4869.JPG IMG_4870.JPG IMG_4872.JPG IMG_4873.JPG IMG_4875.JPG IMG_4880.JPG IMG_4882.JPG
     
  14. Graham08
    Joined: Oct 2, 2007
    Posts: 123

    Graham08
    Member

    Those are some classy looking shock mounts! I like the use of a socket to pull the outer skin into the inside radius for welding.
     
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  15. THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Joined: Jun 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,038

    THE FRENCHTOWN FLYER
    Member
    from FRENCHTOWN

    Your sharing has helped and inspired me. Thank you from another Detroiter.
     
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  16. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,834

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Graham, the tough part is keeping the boxing strip centered during all of those inside, and outside curves, in the 21" of length. A bit of a challenge, always makes it fun !
     
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  17. Weedburner 40
    Joined: Jan 26, 2006
    Posts: 698

    Weedburner 40
    Member

    Aww, don't be so humble Marty. You're good, just admit it.
     
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  18. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,834

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Now for the front bumper/nerf bar. I have a tube roller, but the "feed along"die in the bender has served me well, and I had the layout and fixture for the fabrication. Lots of steps, but the coping of the curved upper bar, takes the longest. IMG_4891.JPG IMG_4892.JPG IMG_4893.JPG IMG_4895.JPG IMG_4896.JPG IMG_4900.JPG IMG_4903.JPG IMG_4904.JPG
     
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  19. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,834

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Some shots of the rear fit, and mounted on the car. Once we decide on what design will be in the center, post, letter, or other, I will re-install it in the fixture and complete the welding. IMG_4906.JPG IMG_4910.JPG IMG_4912.JPG IMG_4914.JPG
     
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  20. That's magic!
     
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  21. Jiminy
    Joined: Oct 25, 2012
    Posts: 349

    Jiminy
    Member

    Put an "M" in the middle of the nerf bar - when people asks if it stands for "Marty" or "Magic" just smile and walk away.
     
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  22. GearheadsQCE
    Joined: Mar 23, 2011
    Posts: 2,473

    GearheadsQCE
    Member

    Marty,
    I really like the shock brackets. Did you consider putting the shock in between the plates in double shear, or is that too street roddy?
     
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  23. Graham08
    Joined: Oct 2, 2007
    Posts: 123

    Graham08
    Member

    Very cool! I'm also a fan of the feed-along tooling. I have a few different dies for my Hossfeld. I haven't used a roller much, but these make more sense to me, much easier to put bends where you want them in a length of tube. The bad part is needing different dies to make big changes in the radius...though after I talked about how to use them with Rollie at Hossfeld, each die does a pretty big range of radii.
     
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  24. 1940Willys
    Joined: Feb 3, 2011
    Posts: 461

    1940Willys
    Member

    Always fascinated by your Build threads Marty! Thank you for your helpful picture posts. I try and store what I see in this feeble brain of mine. Be careful, stay safe!
     
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  25. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,834

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Bruce, when I used a similar tower on the Dwarf Car front suspensions, the coil-over shock was nestled between the plates, but that was carrying the weight of the car. In this case, I moved the the shock to the front side, to be closer to the axle, for more control. Another reason is, with the angle of the radius rods, moving it back, stands the shock up straighter, and is more crowded in that area. Also, there would be more of a conflict between the shock and the slingshot, bolt-on headlight mount. Plus, I like the shock more exposed, from a visual standpoint. If you look close, you can see the headlight bracket in this photo, with the three AMBR winners. This shot is # 7's first outing at the '98 Portland Roadster Show. I always enjoy your questions Bruce, keep them coming. img20200604_0006.jpg
     
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  26. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,834

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Graham, those feed-along dies make an amazingly smooth bend, considering those hoops have 17 bends in each one. I have a HF roller, with Swag dies, and used it when I did the bumper for my '40 pu, mainly because it needed to be 1-1/4" for proper proportions. IMG_1206.JPG IMG_1207.JPG
     
    dwollam, Stogy, Runnin shine and 4 others like this.
  27. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,834

    Marty Strode
    Member

    Did I meet you at the CHRR in 2016 ?
     
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  28. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,834

    Marty Strode
    Member

    The lower shock brackets are tacked in place. Using 10 ga with a 7/16 plain finish cut washer added to double the thickness, around the lower bolt. Rather than cut and weld flat plate brackets, I like bending, and trimming most of the foot off, to add a slight curl the joint, for looks I guess. Also, during setup I always use thin spacers between the brackets and what is bolted, to make clearance for paint and ease of assembly. IMG_4962.JPG IMG_4964.JPG IMG_4966.JPG IMG_4969.JPG IMG_4970.JPG IMG_4973.JPG IMG_4974.JPG IMG_4976.JPG IMG_4977.JPG
     
    Stogy, Shadow Creek, Graham08 and 7 others like this.
  29. SilverJimmy
    Joined: Dec 2, 2008
    Posts: 39

    SilverJimmy
    Member

    Once again when I’m looking at your build I learn a trick, I would have never thought of using my fab magnets to keep my soft parts out of the spinning wheel of death!
     
    Stogy, Jiminy, Blues4U and 1 other person like this.
  30. Marty Strode
    Joined: Apr 28, 2011
    Posts: 4,834

    Marty Strode
    Member

    I added that photo for just that reason, the magnet comes in handy using the belt sander as well, I like my fingernails right where they are !
     
    dwollam, Stogy, RidgeRunner and 4 others like this.

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