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“What joy have I in June's return?" The June 2012 Banger Meet

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Crazydaddyo, Jun 2, 2012.

  1. Will Kimble
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 400

    Will Kimble
    Member

    Oh yeah, you want to try to push the synchro sleeve forward (toward the front of car) before you do anything else. If the balls and springs pop loose, you can go ahead and unhook the battery, drain the radiator, you know the drill... :)

    In fact, it is very possible you have lost balls and springs down into the tranny already - make sure you rotate and verify that all three balls, springs and blockers are still in place. You might have to press on the ball with a screwdriver as you slide the sleeve forward. Maybe some gentle taps with a brass drift on the sleeve while somebody holds the blockers in place?

    I would go to the passenger side, use my right hand to wrap around, hold and press down on all three blockers at once, and push the sleeve forward with my left hand.

    These are tricky to assemble on a bench and you might not be able to pull it off in the car. You are in a sticky situation at the moment. Let us know how it goes.

    Will Kimble
     
  2. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,205

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    Picked this up on craigslist yesterday:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  3. ebtm3
    Joined: May 23, 2007
    Posts: 837

    ebtm3
    Member

    Try putting a large hose clamp around the springs and blockers (like a ring compressor) before moving the sleeve. If the hose clamp wont slide off the end when the sleeve is in the proper position, it can be removed once the sleeve is far enough to keep all the pieces from flying.

    I have used hose clamps for ring compressors on pistons too large or small for the 4 or 5 "real" compressors that I have also.

    Have even used them on hoses-------


    Herb
     

  4. DUDE, you're turning into a head-hog :D
     
  5. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,205

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

  6. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    "Hey, thats my pie". I cant see the picture here at work (blocked???) but I just called my bro in Tustin to see if he picked it up from Allen in Laguna Beach & . . . . . . . .
     
  7. MATACONCEPTS
    Joined: Aug 7, 2009
    Posts: 2,069

    MATACONCEPTS
    BANNED

    dam it!!!!
     
  8. Crazydaddyo
    Joined: Apr 6, 2008
    Posts: 3,205

    Crazydaddyo
    Member

    Sorry, didn't make the connection. I saw the add on Craigslist Monday night and picked it up yesterday.

    .
     
  9. -Brent-
    Joined: Nov 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,441

    -Brent-
    Member

    That's a steal.

    It's sucks when we're all after the same parts... but at least with banger stuff, there's less of us. With that said, don't you guys encroach onto my Utah turf! :D
     
  10. Gaters
    Joined: Dec 29, 2007
    Posts: 565

    Gaters
    Member

    Hey Will - Thanks so much. I have some work do to tomorrow checking on the information you've provided. And since LARS is this weekend, it'll do me good to possibly find the parts you have so kindly recommended.

    I'll have to double check but I do seem to recall that all three balls are still in place. Just a thought, do you think I might be able to use an oversized hose clamp to squeeze em all at the same time and then tap it back in place?

    I'll let you know what I find. Thanks a bunch!
     
  11. Will Kimble
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 400

    Will Kimble
    Member

    Yes, the hose clamp idea that Herb recommended is a good one. Tighten it enough to hold the balls and blockers in place, but not gorilla tight. Tap the sleeve with a brass drift and it (and the hose clamp) will come forward a little bit and pop back into the correct second gear location. At that point, the balls will be secure in the sleeve and you can remove the hose clamp. Once it is correctly in second gear, you should be able to pop the synchronizer back into neutral with your hands.

    Will
     
  12. Gaters
    Joined: Dec 29, 2007
    Posts: 565

    Gaters
    Member

    Duh! Sorry Herb. Somehow I missed your suggestion. I do have both hose clamps and a ring compressor to try on this situation. Thanks! I'll give it a go!
     
  13. roll was compromised, but still fun:

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Gaters
    Joined: Dec 29, 2007
    Posts: 565

    Gaters
    Member

    You guys did it again!!!! I used Herb's large hose clamp idea around all three blocks and it squeezed enough to tap it back into place with a brass drift and a mallet. Once it moved over the block and balls enough I loosened the clamp and tapped it all the back into place.

    Now, It does not have a 91A big fork.I couldn't read the whole number but it was multiple numbers cast into the big fork. What years topper should I look for at the swap meet 39' did you say?

    What is the likelihood that this will happen again? Would it be wise to take it to the LA Roadster Show knowing this is a problem? I'd tow it there most the way and drive it in the rest just to show the car and history. Anything I can do to prevent it from happening as I shift (like not push to far up into 2nd gear)?

    I DO NOT want to ruin the tranny at all. So if it's better I fix it first, then I'll let 'er sit til I can do it right.

    I anxiously wait to hear from you guys on any suggestions and I want to thank you a bunch for helping me out.

    Chris
     
  15. Will Kimble
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 400

    Will Kimble
    Member

    Good job!

    Here is some info about the towers, you either need an 81A (double detent) tower or a 91A 3" fork to put in your '36-38 tower:

    http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_transID_3speed-shifter.htm

    Beware - some 81A towers did not come with 91A 3" forks.

    If you don't find what you need at the LARS I am sure you can get those parts from Mac VanPelt, just click around the website and you will find his contact info.

    I hesitate to guess at the likelihood of it happening again. How much did you drive it before this happened?

    If the synchro comes apart, you will probably have to remove the tranny and take it apart to fix it. Might be able to fudge it, I don't know. It can be tricky to disassemble an early case with late gears. If you find a double detent tower with a 3" fork, it will bolt right on and solve your problem - no tranny removal. If you find a 3" fork and put it in your single detent tower that will also solve your problem, you will have to disassemble your tower but you will not have to remove the tranny. Just trying to lay some groundwork. :)

    Will
     
  16. Gaters
    Joined: Dec 29, 2007
    Posts: 565

    Gaters
    Member

    I drove it quite a bit although not 1000's of mile but at least a few hundred.

    Where is the 3" measured from? Is that the length of the fork or the width of the span?

    I am taking note with me tomorrow so I can ask questions and understand the differences if I see any. A good friend is selling at the swap meet. He might know just what I need and or have one I can purchase.

    Thanks a ton Will. Because of this fix, I am going to take my roadster tot he LA Roadster Show. I already rented a UHaul trailer.

    Chris
     
  17. Will Kimble
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 400

    Will Kimble
    Member

    3" is the width of the span, there is a good picture at the link I gave you. Take a tape measure - the smaller fork is only 1/8" or so narrower, hard to tell by eye. And look for the "91A" on the fork.

    Will
     
  18. Gaters
    Joined: Dec 29, 2007
    Posts: 565

    Gaters
    Member

    Will- I should read before I asked. I did read through the link you provided after I posted my querstion. A lot of good stuff and I am going to order the book too.

    Chris
     
  19. NORSON
    Joined: Jan 19, 2009
    Posts: 468

    NORSON
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Found a crank at my favorite scrap yard. Knew it was old so I dragged it home. Checked the mains (2.222) and rods (2.000) with a caliper. Took these pictures with it sitting in a ford block. Anyone have any idea what it is? Oh, its cross drilled. Norm
     

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  20. BCCHOPIT
    Joined: Aug 10, 2008
    Posts: 2,597

    BCCHOPIT
    Member

    Put it in water it might grow :)
     
  21. Bluto
    Joined: Feb 15, 2005
    Posts: 5,113

    Bluto
    Member Emeritus

    Carry it in both arms till you get it magnifluxed:D
     
  22. BHT8BALL
    Joined: Aug 22, 2010
    Posts: 262

    BHT8BALL
    Member

    The Fedral Mogul bearing book suggest a 120" 4cyl. rod 2.093 x main 2.248, no other comes close. years are 1946-1953. So could be a tractor crank like an 8N. Pat
     
  23. Brendan1959
    Joined: Jun 26, 2008
    Posts: 288

    Brendan1959
    Member

    I was watching that on Ebay but it was to far from melbourne to bid and I was in the simpson desert when it finished.
    Post some pics when you get it home.
    Brendan
     
  24. Here is a transmission photograph for for those that wonder just what a Lincoln side shift transmission looks like. These transmissions were used in the 38 39 Lincoln Zyphers, not sure about 37's The gear shift comes out close to maybe 15 degrees off plumb and they used a shift lever with several bends in it so it could come out of a sorta console under the dash. If you look at it you can get an idea of how much more room there is for your throttle/brake foot. Especially true in a 29. They came with the same gear sets and bearings as the Ford units. The "long Lincoln's" didn't come into use until 40 and was a column shift. The column shift is now referred to as a side shift as it operates levers on the side of the case. On the Lincoln side shift that I'm currently running I bent the shifter lever that operates the forks to the right so that the gear shift looks normal, closer to plumb. Well, it looks normal to me! It has a rectangular end 2.5' or 3" Long. and I had a cuttoff "socket" from a stock shifter that had a short straight shifter on it

    The photo is deceptive but both transmission are the same length

    The 37-39? box has a Ford pickup open drive line conversion.

    Take a look!
     

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    Last edited: Jun 21, 2012
  25. Stole the diamond B four banger from my Fordor to help get my latest contraption to the Le Mans Classic in a couple of weeks. Thought I'd better but a few miles under her skirts before we set off four-up on Wednesday week. So braved the rain storms this morning...

    [​IMG]

    I've replaced the stock exhaust manifold and downdraft 1-1/4" SU with one of the cast iron headers and a Burns manifold and single 94. Running a bit rich at the moment so I have some jetting to play about with before we set off. Also took the opportunity to pop in a set of close ratio gears. Useful turn of speed in second gear now! Hoping to numb the acceleration and wheelspin (!) this weekend by swapping in a 3.27 rear end.
     

  26. Norm,

    Just for giggles, can you lay that crank in a Chevy block?
     
  27. fordsteel
    Joined: Jun 27, 2006
    Posts: 490

    fordsteel
    Member
    from Elkland PA

    I am looking to tap into some knowledge. i have dug through all of my SOSS mags and have not found it yet. I an looking to make a cam driven oil pump for my B block banger. i am able to machine my own front cover but am wondering what oil pumps anyone has had luck with or seen modified for this application. so far a 31 Plymouth oil pump looks like my best option, but i am open to any ideas. thank you for your help.


    picture of a 31 plymouth pump attached
    http://forums.aaca.org/attachments/...oil-pump-assembly-oil-pump-gears-pic_0021.jpg
     
  28. Question for you who know...
    In my 29A, banger motor with mods, I've had a bit of clutch chatter lately. At the same time, I've had increased oil dripping from the clutch housing (about 1/8 of a cup overnight if put away after driving and just a few drops when cold).
    Assuming from the rear main seal.;)
    So, I plan to install a V8 clutch and lightened flywheel soon but realize that the source of oil needs to be stopped before installation.

    When I divorce the clutch housing from the engine, will I be able to repair the leak at that time or am I skrewed?:(

    Thanks guys.
     
  29. CA 31 Victoria
    Joined: May 2, 2011
    Posts: 57

    CA 31 Victoria
    Member
    from California

    I know this may be an open ended question, but what is an original cast iron Crager head worth in running condition?
    I've heard the sleve for the distributor may be a weak spot? ,any other areas of potential concern to look for?
     
  30. NORSON
    Joined: Jan 19, 2009
    Posts: 468

    NORSON
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    "mac"
    Your wish is my command. Doesn't work much better in the Chev. I think the guess of a tractor crank is correct. there was no block there, but there was a cast oil pan of some sort. looks like I'm out $20. Norm
     

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