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’28 Tudor update #6; Steel Roof Covered by Stock Vinyl

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Just Gary, Oct 18, 2011.

  1. 1. I made a plywood template; one edge matches the stock roof’s lengthwise crown, the other follows the lateral crown….

    2. …and took it to a local junkyard to shop for a matching donor roof ~74” x 43” with no lengthwise ribs. I was looking for a Volvo station wagon but found an ‘86 Toyota minivan matched perfectly.
    Roof 01.JPG

    3. A battery-powered sawzall got me a new roof and three interior reinforcing crossmembers, one of which contained a dome light and wiring. Thanks to my buddies who loaned me the sawzall and helped with the roof-lobotomy.
    Roof 02.JPG

    4. There are two ways to weld the insert: You can either lap-weld the insert over the stock hole, leaving the stock lip where the wood slats used to rest. Or you can remove the lip and butt-weld the insert.

    Since I was using a MIG welder, I chose the former, because (a) there’s no gap between the patch and roof for the welder to blow through, (b) vinyl will cover the seam anyway, and (c) the lip’s rigidity helps minimize warpage, which was a huge concern.

    5. I applied Dykem, then measured and marked scribe lines and cut it with a jigsaw and new blades. The patch overlaps the stock sheetmetal hole by 0.25” on all sides.
    Roof 03.JPG

    6. Then I sanded both the patch and roof down to bare shiny metal and sprayed the edges with weld-thru primer.
    Roof 04.JPG

    7. Tack, check, pound, grind, repeat… All welding was done with my small but trusty Lincoln 140C with Argon/Co2 mix and ESAB “easy-grind” 0.025” wire.
    Roof 05.JPG

    8. The long weld seams shrank a lot. I minimized it with short tacks and moved around to prevent heat buildup, but the shrinkage around the patch’s perimeter raising a noticeable “bubble” above and between the rear windows.
    Roof 06.JPG

    9. I alternated between ~20 minutes of tack welding, followed by ~three hours of hammering on-dolly around the perimeter to stretch it and drawing down the bubble with a shrinking disc, then checking my progress with the plywood template and repeating the tack weld/hammering/shrinking process.

    Also, the roof’s extremely low crown (it’s almost flat) would cause it to oil-can if not for the shrinking disc and the Toyota minivan crossmembers.
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2017
    D-Russ and gbgh like this.
  2. 10. I rolled the car outside for a better view of its silhouette. Once the bubble was eliminated and the weld seam was complete, I ground it down almost flush and sanded it with a 4.5” sanding disc.
    Roof 07.JPG

    11. I added small patches at the front corners- in the remaining gap between the stock roof’s sides and the header panel.
    Roof 08.JPG

    Roof 09.JPG

    12. I sprayed a light rattlecan primer guide coat and sanded the roof with 80 grit on a longboard. This exposed the remaining highs and lows that my clumsy hands couldn’t detect.
    Roof 10.JPG

    Roof 11.JPG

    13. More hammer & dolly and shrinking disc work, followed by a temporary coat of black rattlecan primer to protect the bare metal from our northern Virginia humidity.

    14. Later (after media blasting the entire body), I’ll weld the inside Toyota van crossmembers to the stock lip (but not the roof skin itself). The vinyl top will be added later, after blasting, epoxy primer and a thin skim coat of bondo over the seam.
    Roof 12.JPG

    Roof 13.JPG
    So there you have it! What do you think?
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2017
  3. green53ford
    Joined: Mar 4, 2009
    Posts: 206

    green53ford
    Member
    from Wisconsin

    Thats the way i did it on my 31 tudor. I used a roof from an early 70s ford wagon. But this was almost 30 years ago. I still have the car today.
     
  4. Boxcar's 1928
    Joined: Aug 30, 2011
    Posts: 396

    Boxcar's 1928
    Member

    I've a 28 Tudor top in my future as well, thanks for sharing. I'm searching for a top with ribs. Fine job.
     

  5. need louvers ?
    Joined: Nov 20, 2008
    Posts: 12,906

    need louvers ?
    Member

    Great way to go with the vinyl top and all! The filled roof section adds sooo much rigidity to the body of Model "A"s it's almost unbelievable. Good work finding the Toyota deal too!
     
  6. djust
    Joined: May 31, 2006
    Posts: 1,230

    djust
    Member
    from Oklahoma

    Looks great.
     
  7. 1959Nomad
    Joined: Jun 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,095

    1959Nomad
    Member

    Nice work, very resourceful!
     
  8. deadbeat
    Joined: May 3, 2006
    Posts: 521

    deadbeat
    Member

    wow, great job.Alot of hard but fun work & the final result is amazing
     
  9. scrap metal 48
    Joined: Sep 6, 2009
    Posts: 6,056

    scrap metal 48
    Member

    Looks good.. Nice job..How much is it chopped???
     
  10. Looks great! Thanks for the tip on the Toyota van!
     
  11. motoandy
    Joined: Sep 19, 2007
    Posts: 3,289

    motoandy
    Member
    from MB, SC

    Great job. I used an 84' Astro Van flipped around backwards. Short tacks and movement from side to side is key. Looks nice
     
  12. I like it keep up the great work
     
  13. 40Standard
    Joined: Jul 30, 2005
    Posts: 5,791

    40Standard
    Member
    from Indy

    nice job, any pics with the vinyl on it?
     
  14. gbgh
    Joined: Sep 22, 2005
    Posts: 167

    gbgh
    Member

    Couldn't ask for a better tutorial ! Thanks!!


    Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    Just Gary likes this.
  15. scott34
    Joined: Oct 8, 2017
    Posts: 15

    scott34

    Thanks for the great detail in the pictures
    It will be helpful with my 34


    Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
     
    Just Gary likes this.
  16. barrnone50
    Joined: Oct 24, 2010
    Posts: 537

    barrnone50
    Member
    from texas

    Great Job!! thanks for sharing your handy work I might try this on my 31 Tudor great tutorial on the roof.
     
    Just Gary likes this.

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