The Jalopy Journal
Nice work right there
I'd seen Fort Wayne's prices, they ship UPS..and like you say, it wouldn't get here to save any $$.
It should be fine, it's what Henry did in '42;)
have the ends off... Kinda what I was thinking as well. Built several in the past, but was when I had a large lathe, I'd chuck the shaft in...
Most long bed...shoot, even vans, have two piece drive shafts...I found a driveline shop who will sell me a piece...95 bucks for 5 feet..I'll get...
It's either 083 or .095, haven't located my calipers yet. Good suggestion on the driveline shops, I have one somewhat near to me...hadn't thought...
The closest place I can find it doesn't have 3.5inch steel, just ChroMoly..they can order it, but I have to go in, pay up front...wait...then go...
Just asking...
Just curious...how many passes you figure were on that motor the past few years?
You should be able to find the compressed thickness of the gasket...don't just Mic the gasket as-is.
Only info I can provide is 55-9 gears won't swap into 60-on up rears...different animals. You might check with Patricks in Az..they sell a lower...
Someone didn't read the info posted...
Got a promo code for that;) Edit: Sorry, must be for a pair
Might start here: http://www.aaca.org/
Thanks, seems to be the acid of choice. Now I gotta get all rubbered up!
Funny you mention that, after trying for 30 minutes, I thought the search function was broke...even a search of "Ford" came up with nothing, hence...
What kinda of acid did you use? Would acid used for soldering work? Thanks
I'm sure some of you talented folks here have been able to bring up unreadable numbers off surface rusted frames. An internet search revealed...
Chevy didn't hang pedals until 1960, so I'd venture to say using "early Chevy truck" stuff, wouldn't be correct for what you're after anyways.
I think some are over policing the forums...seems like the OP asked a question that could affect anyone here...and obviously has by the number of...
Seems you don't have a return spring on your pedal...once you get a return spring on, you can remove the shims. Do a search on Google (maybe here...
38556 :) Edit: Should have known I'd been beat by one of the "500" ;)
I've seen that truck before...I bought a heater from him several years ago. He also extended the cab on a '56 pickup...very nice job
Fine looking truck there!
Take an ohm meter across the two terminals, have someone push down the pedal, see if continuity goes to zero. Another thought, is the brake arm...
The wording used my be incorrect, but I can assure you my '57 (dad bought new) is a Big window, no exterior trim nor one chromed dash knob...rules...
The Wrap around window didn't designate a Custom cab, as 01 points out, the outer trim was a give-away at distance...FWIW every Custom Cab I'd...
This, and heat the heck out of the "red" area in his pic...make sure plenty of tension on the puller...wait for the "pop":)
A great resource is "The Standard catalouge of Trucks"...should be at your library.
Measure the width (drum to drum) and the threaded size of the tapered axle...I think it may be the same as what I pulled from my '31/32 Dodge...
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The Jalopy Journal
