I have a small block Chevy with a TH350 tranny. Ordered a higher stall converter and after paying a tranny shop $220 to install it (R&R) it was not a higher stall converter. Being on a fixed income I am going to remove the converter myself to return it for a refund. It'll cost more to have it removed than the damn thing is worth. I have the room, am on jack stands, and am wondering if anyone has simply pulled the tranny back 3-4 inches and then swapped the converter out? I figure a floor jack to hold the tranny while I do the swap - what do you think? Done it? Thanks Steve
What kind of car? Most don't have enough room to move the trans back the 8-10 inches required to pull a converter. You're already disconnecting everything to move it back, why not just drop it and do it right? You'll also have a tough time installing a new converter and lining up the pump drive with the trans up in whatever car you are working on. One last thing, if you don't have horsepower, you won't notice, or take advantage of a higher stall converter.
I have to state i hate automatics and will never own one but in the case of higher stall speeds it depends a lot on application. The same convertor can be a bunch different in a 283 TBucket as it is in a 572 Caprice wagon.
I've got the horsepower. Lots of that - and I'm tired of flipping it into neutral to keep from chirping the tires through the red lights. It's a 31 Chevy Sedan, 350 motor with Gen II Bowtie heads, a pretty healthy cam, and probably a bit much for the street. But I love this little chop top and it's quick. Makes the little Jap drivers sit up - much as I love their cars I love whipping them even more. The floor of the car is all flat iron. I have a lot of room to slide it back as the tranny tunnel is plenty roomy. But looking at the converter it seems to be only about 4 inches of distance from one end to the other of the tube. And why don't I remove it? I am afraid I'll never get it back in again. At 50 I could have done it but at 70 I'm not as strong as I was. I figured if I just rolled the tranny back a bit and lowered it a bit I could man handle the converter around. Remember I am on jack stands - not a lift - - I don't want to lose the $175 on the converter and to pay someone to change it is going to cost another $225. I was hoping someone on here would have tried it or done it and might have some hints on how they did.
You need at least 8 inches. the converter has a neck on it that runs the pump. It will be a bitch to get the converter properly set on the pump with the tranny in the car. If you have never done it you are in for some head aches. You need to hold the converter by the bump on the front. Spin the converter with the other hand while pushing it in with the hand holding the bump. It should go in 2 or 3 clunks and if it is seated properly it will be about 1/2 inch back from the edge of the bell housing. Don't forget to put grease on the neck so it does not take out the seal when you first fire it up. PS Buy a B&M street fighter 2500 stall and be done with it!!!
That's what I needed to know Fuzzy - Thanks - Reckon I'll just pay to have it done. It was a good idea at the time though. I should know that being a cheap charlie always costs me more in the long run. Will do on the torque converter.
make a pair of LONG studs out of all-thread , I mean a foot long! Screw them in in the second bolt holes down on each side of the bellhusing. now you can slide the tranny back and pull the converter. My Dad worked on Farmall tractors(M) until he was 98 years old, I did some of the heavy work for him the last 2 or 3 years. You CAN do it, and don't let anyone say you can't!
Converters are the most misunderstood performance part on the planet. Even a lot of the hot rod rags in fact haven't got a clue. Too little is the number one thing I see. I run 3800 on the street behind the max wedge. Big cam rough powerful rambungious motor. Converter allows me to drive it like a normal car, never worry about it stalling or bucking around at stop lights and YET should you be so bold as to try me at the lights I can leave at 3800 and will. meanwhile once car starts rolling this converter is as tight as a stocker not slipping or heating etc. I get my convertor all of them from one place. Frank Lupos Dynamic. And I don't second guess him. After over 20 years of dealing with him I have learned to trust what he recommends no matter what I or the "local experts" may think. I always hope at the drags no one else will have one. There is little you can buy in performance parts that will give you more advantage then a good converter. Return per dollar is huge. And BTW I do not have to rev the motor to 3800 to get the car to move as I hear from a lot of folks. I simply lift my foot and the motor climbs from about 950 to 1100 and I can roll along at 30 MPH nicely. In other words it works perfect. In the six rail which is race only Frank made me a 8 inch 4700 stall, good for about 4 length over those who wont buy one which is just fine with me:>) don
To have a converter built , the shop will ask you a B U N C H of questions. Weight of car Gear ratio Engine torque and curve Cam Intended use. They ask because it makes a difference If you know the answers and how they apply you can pick an OTS converter and maybe get lucky, maybe.
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