THE oldsmobile rocket 303 324 371 394 post to end all other posts, (lasalle related )

Could somebody educate me on the difference on the 57-58 oil pans. I have a gasket set that has 2 different main rubber gaskets in it. One has a notch at the top where the main is on the front and back. I have an extra pan to replace the one on my motor which is leaking around the drain plug. be for I try changing the pan I want to make sure it will fit. Is there a difference in oil pans. thanks

 

The factory parts manual shows a different pan when going from 57 to 58. I just looked that up last week, but it will never say what any of the differences were, so I don't know.

I have seen 2 styles of those rubber seals. One has a rectangular shaped end, and one is sort of tapered. if you use the tapered-end seal with the pan that uses the rectangle, then it will have a big gap there and leak.

 

They changed the location of the dipstick, but not sure if that was 57-58.

 

Hey Martin, that is a really clean looking intake............!!

 

Haha, I've posted that one a while back.
But you're right, now I could just post a pic of "my" clean 4x2 intake

 

324" with rare Horne [ 1of 100 ] manifold

 

How did the Horne fit the Olds 324. Do you have the #10 heads or the smaller ports. My understanding is the Horne will not cover the ports on the 324, #10 heads. I've been looking to buy from another HAMBer a Horne for my Olds but I've been told the ports won't cover.

 

There were no #10 heads when Horne supposedly made this intake in 1955.
Judging by this picture, it looks like there could be enough meat around the intake ports to make it work.
Even though the ports look to be 303 size.

Only a picture with a 324 gasket on this intake will tell for sure.

There were a lot of aftermarket companies that made intakes with the 303 ports, but enough meat around them to be able to open them up for the 324.

Like right here:

Left has been ported to match 324, right is still 303.
Photo credit goes to Speedy Canuck

 

cool, is that your motor?
I don't see any number on the head there,
are they 303 heads on an 1/8th over 303 or 324 block?

I don't have a picture of the underside of my Horne here at work
but it didn't fully cover the ports on my 324
and I didn't want to modify it by welding extra material on,
the Cragar has a lot more meat to work with
so I opened the ports to match the #10 heads and will use it on this project

 

Paul, did you re-chrome your dimpled valve covers, or are they original?
They look great!

 

I bought them from a friend who had just had them chromed

 

I didn't get it to fit, the car was built in Ca. in '55, and that's the way it remains today. Do a search on 'Ca. 5W from 1955', and it tells the whole story.

 

This thread has been very useful; but I'm in need of a few more specs. I've had an adjustment screw screw shear off; and will need to do a bit of work.



I believe the rockers are a J2 version, are the screws are specific to that rocker? or where I may find a source for the screw?

Also, as a rookie Olds man; I believe that I'll be removing the rocker shaft to make this change. What are the torque values for the "shaft caps"?

 

I just got through rebuilding a 62 394 and will post a video and specs soon. Tony, At Ross helped me get the project off the ground. I currently have it running on an engine test stand. It's been a fun and expensive project.

 

Jeremy,
I suggest you buy yourself a 1950 Oldsmobile shop manual,
for all the stock spec information.

those jamb nuts are grade 5, 5/16 nf half nuts, should be easy to find
and should have been replaced when the previous owner had it open

the screws on the other hand are hens teeth.
but that same previous owner will have a replacement.

not sure about that particular set but
with the valve closed
I have been able to run the screw all the way up
and slide the rocker to the side
pull the push rod out
cover the guide hole so you don't drop the screw down it
and back the screw out.

assembly is in reverse order
adjust valves cold .018 intake, .020 exhaust
I use a go no-go method
.018 feeler will fit, .019 won't

 

Thanks for the help thus far.

I ordered a manual on CD out of Riverside last night; and am hoping it will be here before the weekend.

I tried the 'sliding method' yesterday, and though it may work... but I'm going to need to compress the valve spring just a bit to get it to work.

As luck would have it, I got all the way through the passenger bank; and found the culprit intake valve that started my investigation... and in my glee to 'fix what aint broke' I end up scratching my head.

I'll get in touch with the previous owner. I think I may have a 59' Car Craft on roadster styling he might enjoy.

 

Paul. Could you elaborate a bit on this for me please? Are you just rolling the engine over until the valve closes, and then adjusting with the feeler gauge? Then continuing on to the next one? Would the same gaps be used for different manufacturers of adjustable rockers?

I just picked up a 53 Olds with 56 heads and adjustable rockers. Trying to glean some info and knowledge on adjustable rockers where I can.

 

thank you, I should be a bit more specific here,
there are a few ways to change up the process to speed it up a bit,
using firing order and quarter rotations jumping from valve to valve on multiple cylinders

but

the safest way is to work each cylinder individually
roll the engine over until the exhaust valve just starts to open
adjust the intake
continue to roll the engine over until the intake opens and go until it is just about closed
adjust exhaust.

 

Thanks Paul! I appreciate the additional information.

 

6FTUnder & Speedy Canuck what you both have are McGurk 1.5:1 adjustable rockers I've had them on both my Olds engines. My 324 with #10 heads & Herbert cam I set valves at .014" in., .016" ex. hot.

 

sounds about right for gaps hot,
6ftunder's came off a J2 engine
I have a couple sets just like them,
one set I bought without an engine
and the other came attached to another 371 with J2 carbs
I assumed they were the no-name Isky's
but they do not look exactly like my Isky labled sets.

 

Isky bought out McGurk. Maybe that's why the similarity.

 

Makes sense

 

McGurk adjustables eh? Thanks!

Were McGurk rockers stamped with the M in a circle? Or were McGurk's not stamped at all? I've read things that say both?

 

The ones I have have no markings but since the first set I got were new in the box I know what they are.

 

Thanks 550. Good to know.

 

It seems there are several different sizes that were produced. Here's two examples:

The first, an outside diameter of 3/8" x 1 1/8"


And the second... closer to 5/16" x 1 1/16"

 

hmm, I pulled the screw from a spare McGurk 394 rocker assuming it was the same..
I see now of course it is not.

here is a 371 set (crusty) next to a 394 set (clean)
these also show the 371 set with 3/8 thread and 394 with 5/16

also for comparison an Isky set, 3/8 thread but with allen adjuster and no through hole

 

while we are at it, if one were to opt for a hydraulic cam and lifters
these are the off the shelf replacement lifters and push rods
typical sbc stuff

 

Hey Fellow Rocketeers, Love ALL this info. Great resource and have subscribed for quite awhile.

I am currently restoring a '64 Olds 98. Had enough of the old Slim Jims, so got together with Tony and modified a TH400 to install, behind the 394. Decided that removing the whole pkg, would not only make the job easier, but allow me to do any upgrades and detail work. Have already established another thread on the whole project, but thought I would post a few pics tonight.

Despite greasy slimy externals and heavy rust in water jackets, internals of this engine, are very clean and show minimal wear. As stated in the other thread, plans call for valve grind, timing chain/gears and all new gaskets. She ran pretty darn good, before pulling it out of the car and no smoke!

Can't wait to have it up and running again, with the new Th400 installed.

JT
zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz