I need to replace the mechanical fuel pump on a 1958 Ford F100 with an electric fuel pump (Airtex E8016S). I do not know how to wire it correctly. Can anyone tell me where to connect wiring to make this work correctly? JGM
They are pretty easy to wire, but you should be aware of some potential issues that could arise. 1st, install the pump as close to the tank as you can. It is easier for the pump to push the fuel over pulling it. It grounds itself via the mounting, so be sure to mount it to the frame, or grounded structure. If it has a ground wire, just attach that ground wire to the base where it's mounted with a proper sized terminal lug. The hot wire should be a 12vdc source that is only hot when the ign. is on (car running), simply because you don't want to be pumping fuel with it in "ACcESSORY". of course, you want it to shut off when the key is off, so don't connect it to a 12+ hot lead. That said, in case of God forbid, an accident, you want to not have it pumping fuel if a fuel line was ruptured during a collision. I am not sure what the best way to be sure of that myself. I use an El fuel pump in one of my cars, but have no safegaurd for that or haven't figured out a way to safegaurd for that currently. But it is something to think about. Don't install the pump near exhaust or other heat areas because it will vapor lock on ya.
Oh yeah, if the pump you are using isn't adjustible, be sure to add a fuel pressure regulator (adjustible). The one I am using, I installed with with an adjustible regulator so I can adjust the fuel pressure. To much is bad, and of course too little is bad, so you can tweek it.
Post number two raises a great question. What happens in a wreck? Some race santioning bodies tell you to head off to the junk yard, reach in the truck of a Taurus and grab the factory "roll over" switch. They are cheap, they work great for the intended purpose, and they do stop the fuel pump when wired inline with the hot wire. Big bump, no more hot to the fuel pump. Unintended bump? Reach in the trunk, push the button and go.
you can use a inertia switch that will open and shut off the power to the pump in case of an accident. They have been used in vehicles for some time. Check with the wiring manufacturers or perhaps a good NAPA store.
The above advise posted is good BUT be sure to plumb a fuel filter between the fuel tank and the pump AND to use the correct gauge wire when wiring the pump. If in doubt about the wiring contact Ron Frances Wiring and they will help you. Good luck and go for it..........................
Wire it through an engine oil pressure switch so if there is no oil pressure, the fuel pump doesn't pump. That shuts the pump off in case the fuel line breaks.
I generally use a relay that is wired through an oil pressure switch, that way when the engine is not running the fuel pump is off, the inertia switch is a very good idea too.
Safety factor is well intended here, but I like the fuel pump when cold starting after sitting for a few days. (just for positive 'prime') My F100 starts within 1/4 turn of the crank. It would annoy me to crank that dude and wait for oil pressure...then (finally!) fuel pump. All good suggestions, Just imagine a crash...dazed...then the whole thing goes up in flames. Fed by the fuel pump.
For cold starts it is common to grab 12v off the starter solenoid. you can use the 4 post Ford style solenoid or just tie to the starter side of the solenoid
Ford Ranger pickup has a cheap, simple, easy to wire safety shutoff under the dash on the passenger side. It may be the same one used on Taurus /Sable, I don't know.
Along with all the other good/bad/dangerous advice posted above, you may want to consider this switch, a Carter oil pressure safety switch, no. A68301, available from Summit. The switch provides the safety if the engine stalls. Also may want to consider a Carter or Holley low pressure pump, if you have a carb, to eliminate the pressure regulator.
Actually, those inertia switches is exactly what I need. I am going to pick one of those Ford switches up and put in my daughter's 69 (the one we put the EL pump in).
Another good source for inertia switches are the Crown Vic/Grand Marquis/Town Car, located on the drivers side trunk area.
On these inertia switches, are they placed in every vunerable area? Or does one switch cover most impacts? (i.e.) located up under the dash, will trip in rear, frontal or side impact? Obviously they would have to be bolted secure on a main hard bolted structure to transfer any inertia throughout the car? BTW: to the OP, sorry the safety switches sort of highjacked your thread, but it is a legitimate concern when upgrading to El fuel pump, and one I don't think many think about when doing it.
We use those same switches at Bonneville. SCTA requires one. As said, Ford has a good one, grab a couple at the pick n pull. And yes, they will handle most impacts. All of the rough use in my Ranger over 250K miles I have never accidentally had it go off.
I don,t know if propane fuel is popular in the U.S., but we have to fit an "ignition sense relay" to propane conversions here. These are basically a relay which has +12volts in, +12volts out, ground and ignition pulse input. These will give an output of +12volts only when an ignition pulse is sensed. I have wired these up to control electric fuel pumps on many cars, (instead of the output feeding a propane solenoid as they were designed to), and they have worked well (and are cheap , too) They are sold as "Carmtrol" over here.
Some good info here! Thanks everyone I just wired up my first el f/p and a couple things I didn't think about
Another option is this, http://www.classicindustries.com/truck/parts/re12003.html <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td colspan="3" class="prod_image_table" valign="middle"> </td></tr></tbody></table> <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" border="0"><tbody><tr><td class="productdetailtitle" colspan="2"> RE12003 - ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP SAFETY SWITCH </td></tr><tr><td class="productdetaildescription" colspan="2"> This safety feature is a must have for any electric fuel-pump fed Muscle Car. If your motor stalls and your float is sticking, or worse, if you're in an accident severe enough to stop the motor, your electric fuel pump will still be running, pumping fuel onto a possible fire. Make your muscle car safer with this Fuel Pump Safety Switch. Wired in-line with your fuel pump, the switch monitors the tachometer signal and shuts off the fuel pump when the engine stops running. When the key is first turned on, the fuel pump is allowed to </td></tr></tbody></table> basically a safety switch wired to the tach i like how it comes on for about three seconds when you turn the ignition switch. i will let it prime and then wait till it goes off before i crank I have it in both cars now and have had no issues- good luck
you can run the inertia switch in series with the oil switch for double protection , but one thing to remember always run the pump on a 40 amp relay with the controls thru the oil and inertia switches and a hot from the battery to run the pump , not thru the switches or ignition switch directly it will draw alot of amps and can weld the contacts or make a hot switch ( which is very uncomfortable ) and if you want with the relay you can make a priming bypass switch so you do not have to crank a long time to build up oil pressure if the car has been sitting a while ( but I rather crank as if the fuel lines are dry so are the oil gallerys ) as for the ford inertia switches it was one of the best safety features ever devised . and probably the only part I would put on a GM car from them .
I have a separate pump toggle switch that I can turn off when setting the timing, setting valves or checking the electrical connections, etc.
The Jalopy Journal
