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Technical De-rusting on Mixed Metals

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Ulu, Apr 21, 2014.

  1. Ulu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 1,775

    Ulu
    Member
    from CenCal

    I've read lots of good advice here about dealing with rust, but I haven't seen this question yet.

    The grille bars on my Plymouth are stamped stainless steel, but they have trim clips with studs spot welded all over them, and those clips & studs are plain steel and most are rather rusty.

    What's the best way to approach this problem? Can I use electrolysis to remove the rust without etching the stainless?

    I'm also afraid the spot welds might give out with the etching that happens.

    What to do? :(
     
  2. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

    hey,

    Are the trim clips still intact, i.e. do they still hold the moulding in tension, and can the nuts that hold them in place still be fastened and unfastened? Is your main area of concern the visable rust from the carbon steel where its' blead into visable areas?

    The rust ''stains'' that have run onto the stainless can removed with sanding & polishing.

    If the trim clips themselves are toast, you may have to source new ones from a Mopar parts source or fab your own.
     
  3. Definitely DO NOT use stainless in the electrolytic rust removal process. I have heard that this will produce Hexavalent Chromium (think Erin Brockovich).
     
  4. Ulu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 1,775

    Ulu
    Member
    from CenCal

    Those "clips" are not removable. They're welded to the trim.

    They're all OK except for the rust, but that rust is gonna sit right on the new paint.

    I'm probably just gonna scrub it off with the die grinder & wire wheel & a Dremmel with a tiny wire wheel. Otherwise I don't know how to get the "inside" face.
     

  5. Have you thought about Oxylic Acid? Read up on that a little. Don't believe it'll bother the stainless, but check that out first. There are plenty of articles about it on the interweb. I've used it for some rust removal and it worked great.
     
  6. I would take the surgical type and localized mechanical approach on this one.
    Get off what you can and artist brush on some por 15 type paint, then over coat the clips with silver enamel.

    Reason being is submerging the grill is bound to cause you more work to get it back.
    But if I were to try something it would be the wood bleach or oxalic acid.
     
  7. 24 Dodge
    Joined: May 2, 2010
    Posts: 757

    24 Dodge
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Try soaking the grill in vinegar for a week, vinegar is good at removing rust. I don't think it will hurt the stainless.
     
  8. seb fontana
    Joined: Sep 1, 2005
    Posts: 8,492

    seb fontana
    Member
    from ct

    ^^x2^^ or the por15
     
  9. Ulu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 1,775

    Ulu
    Member
    from CenCal

    I have a spare bent grille bar. I can afford to experiment with that a bit.
     
  10. Ulu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 1,775

    Ulu
    Member
    from CenCal

    Any other suggestions?
     
  11. pdq67
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 787

    pdq67
    Member

    Try water and molasses.

    pdq67
     
  12. plym49
    Joined: Aug 9, 2008
    Posts: 2,802

    plym49
    Member
    from Earth

    Yes. But IMHO the surgical/artistic approach is least likely to cause some unintended consequence.
     
  13. Drive Em
    Joined: Aug 25, 2006
    Posts: 1,748

    Drive Em
    Member


    I use Oxalic acid to restore old school BMX bikes all the time. 4 tea spoons to 5 gallons of water, and submerge your parts. It will remove rust easily. Check on it every 4-6 hours, and wash off with soap and water.
     
  14. caitlinnue
    Joined: Apr 25, 2014
    Posts: 3

    caitlinnue
    Member
    from new york

    There are plenty of articles about it on the interweb.[​IMG]
     
  15. Crystal Blue
    Joined: Nov 18, 2008
    Posts: 609

    Crystal Blue
    Member

  16. Ulu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 1,775

    Ulu
    Member
    from CenCal

    NAPA sells a similar product & I've used it before. I don't think it's for this, as the parts are all loose and accessible.

    There's just this seam between the stainless & the carbon steel, that I know has rust inside it, so I'll want something thin that will suck up in there by capillary action.

    I was just gonna use Jasco Metal Prep, and dip the rusty spots, then soak them in a water bath to neutralize the phosphoric acid.

    I just didn't know what'll happen to stainless when you dip it in phosphoric acid. I guess I'll find out when I dip the test piece.
     
  17. damagedduck
    Joined: Jun 16, 2011
    Posts: 2,341

    damagedduck
    Member
    from Greeley Co

  18. Ulu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 1,775

    Ulu
    Member
    from CenCal

    Thanks Duck.
     

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