Hey Guys, I need some major help. I can't get my car to start. I thought I had everything done & ready to go, but I guess not. I actually got it to start & run before I took it all apart & now it's back together again & I'm dumbfounded. Here's what I've do e so far. -rebuilt carb & replaced broken heat tube from exhaust manifold to carb. -cleaned cylinder head -took apart & cleaned rocker arm/put back together -removed/cleaned/installed lifters -cleaned/replaced push rods - new 6V battery -new 0 gauge battery cables -rebuilt distributor/cap/points/etc. & aligned rotor with #1 plug. -new plugs -new plug wires -new 6V ignition coil -removed oil pan/cleaned/installed with new seal. -new oil pick up screen -cleaned oil pump & packed with Vaseline - fresh fuel coming from a gas can. Not the tank. Fuel pump is working because carb is getting fuel. -fresh oil I think that's it. The car seems to be turning over really slow. Like it's not getting enough juice to fire the car. #1 plug wire is getting spark. I've tried two different sets of plug wires. 2 different ignition coils. 2 different batteries. I'm really stuck. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks In Need Of: 1950 Buick Front & Rear Bumper Guards. 1955 Buick Headlight Bezels w/out lower marker lights. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Are you correcting me or saying the car won't start because of the gasket. In Need Of: 1950 Buick Front & Rear Bumper Guards. 1955 Buick Headlight Bezels w/out lower marker lights. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
1. Check plug wire order 2. Check voltage for bad battery (probably already did this, but in case) 3. You sure the starter is good? 4. You didn't mess with timing over than the distributor? I'd recheck that, too. I hate working on timing because it's often a culprit... Grrr... 5. Try some starter fluid just to see if the car will fire and is getting adequate spark. Maybe the new coil is weak? Good luck.
Did one & two. Seems like starter is ok, but it hasn't been replaced. I lined up the timing mark with the distributor as stated by the book as well. Tried starter fluid multiple times. Tried 2 different coils.
Yes I did pull the distributor. After assembling I replaced it as described in the book. How can I tell if its 180 degrees out?
Make sure your battery connections are super solid. And that the engine has a great ground. Other than that, ignition timing to far advanced? Throw a timing light on it. Should fire the light.
this could be the long way but locate TDC no 1 , valve cover off, watch as you rotate towards TDC inlet should close then TDC. set dist so rotor is point at no one in the cap. Check all the leads are in correct order, crank whilst moving dist forward and back a bit, should fire....
There's still a LOT that can be wrong! Are you sure you set the plug wires up right? as in, correctly on the cap,. according to the distributor rotation? I had problems with my 55 Olds, cause it rotated the opposite way my Chevy did! Do you have good compression? ALL cylinders? Did you set the "dwell"? Just with a feeler gage, or double check with a meter? How are you checking spark at the plug? screwdriver, or a spark checking device? A spark checker will give the proper "resistance" to the plug and wires, to simulate what the engine needs, just using a screwdriver might show spark, but it might be too weak to fire a cylinder. If it is cranking slow, check the starter circuit first, battery condition, grounds, batt. cables, etc. Watch battery voltage as you crank, see if it is dropping off too much ( under 10.5 v. on a 12 v system is usually not enough to fire the ignition, not sure of 6 v.) I know you said you rpelaced the battery, but if after repeated crankings, it looses voltage, you might need a jump, or charger boost, if you've got a 6 volt battery charger.
Don't give up. Go back to basics, perform a compression check to be sure that the base engine is ok. You did have the valvetrain all apart and if you are not building compression you can throw fuel and spark at it all day long, it won't start. You also state it cranks slow, was it that way before or is this new? Perhaps the battery is not up to snuff. Is it trying to start, what I mean is, is it popping through the intake, or just nothing at all? Good luck.
What the others have said, plus the initial valve adjustment which must be done after reassembly. The procedure is available online. The lifters may need to be filled and "bled" before reinstalling, maybe possibly perhaps. Good luck.
Your battery cabel aren't the right gauge. My car does that to when you've been driving and you pull off to get gas the cabel is to hot I gotta let the car cool off Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I am with flamed 48, 6 volt cables should be double 0 I believe. Also 6 volt cars like solid core wires not the carbon core late model type.
Also I have a 1951 Buick and I cannot remember if it is positive ground like my Packard. Do you have to wire the positive side of the coil different if so?
F A S T Fuel air spark timing in that order but after compression. So run a compression test. Ok you've checked fuel to carb but carb itself is unproven after rebuild. All you can do is set initial mixture and hope its ok. Other than a few checks it will be verified or singled out later. Air, you need free flow thru the carb and intake but no place else aka vacuum leaks Spark, ok you have spark , should be hot and blue with a nice sharp crack like a whip not clapping hands. Timing, if you are having trouble I'd set up a piston stop and verify your TDC marks you'll be glad you did this. Be sure you have the correct cylinder designations, the rotation of the rotor and firing order as published. Don't use that Fucked up MSD chart as there are many mistakes. Understand why # 1 will pass TDC twice in a cycle that's an important concept. Bring #1 up to TDC on compression and see if rotor is where it's supposed to be. Compare cap and see that #1 wire is corresponding with rotor position using the cap locating tabs. Ok, make your last min sweep and turn the key. Fires up or putters you are close and tuning can begin. Pops and backfires your timing is off rotate dizzy Bucks the starter your timing is off rotate dizzy Nothing ? You have trouble. Try starting fluid, if it putters on fluid you have a fuel/ carb problem. Nothing on fluid you have an ignition or compression problem. Since you've done the compression test you know wich it is, and since you did a piston stop and understand why #1 crosses twice you know it's not dizzy placement related you can easily trouble shoot the ignition system. Took me longer to type than just do the stuff
F A S T Fuel air spark timing in that order but after compression. So run a compression test. Ok you've checked fuel to carb but carb itself is unproven after rebuild. All you can do is set initial mixture and hope its ok. Other than a few checks it will be verified or singled out later. Q Air, you need free flow thru the carb and intake but no place else aka vacuum leaks Spark, ok you have spark , should be hot and blue with a nice sharp crack like a whip not clapping hands. Timing, if you are having trouble I'd set up a piston stop and verify your TDC marks you'll be glad you did this. Be sure you have the correct cylinder designations, the rotation of the rotor and firing order as published. Don't use that Fucked up MSD chart as there are many mistakes. Understand why # 1 will pass TDC twice in a cycle that's an important concept. Bring #1 up to TDC on compression and see if rotor is where it's supposed to be. Compare cap and see that #1 wire is corresponding with rotor position using the cap locating tabs. Ok, make your last min sweep and turn the key. Fires up or putters you are close and tuning can begin. Pops and backfires your timing is off rotate dizzy Bucks the starter your timing is off rotate dizzy Nothing ? You have trouble. Try starting fluid, if it putters on fluid you have a fuel/ carb problem. Nothing on fluid you have an ignition or compression problem. Since you've done the compression test you know wich it is, and since you did a piston stop and understand why #1 crosses twice you know it's not dizzy placement related you can easily trouble shoot the ignition system. Took me longer to type than just do the stuff
I like the way Zerk is thinking here. Definitely look into the lifters and valve adjustments. DO A CRANKING VACUUM TEST... Connect vacuum gauge to a source of manifold vacuum. Remove and plug any vacuum hoses and pipes connected to manifold vacuum. Completely close throttle plates, including backing off the idle speed adjustment screw. Make sure battery is fully charged. Disconnect coil lead from distributor cap. Crank engine over and read manifold vacuum while cranking. If it's not pulling 3 to 6 inches it probably won't start.
Just helped a friend with his rebuilt engine, he tightend the rockers too tight and it wasnt starting even with fuel and spark. It sounded close but didnt catch. We loosened them to proper torque and bam! Fired up. And I was gonna say, check if its +ground and check your point gap again. Good luck man!! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Holy Crap. Ok. Looks like I've got a lot of work ahead of me. Thank you all for the great advice. I'm going to give it all a try. Hope I figure it out. I should be able to with all of this information. Once I get it I'll report back. Don't be mad if it's not for a while. Ha ha. Thanks In Need Of: 1950 Buick Front & Rear Bumper Guards. 1955 Buick Headlight Bezels w/out lower marker lights. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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