I've been looking at that wagon they had on their website! If I was closer, you'd of had competition. Did you spring for the deal on their GT Sport chassis as well or just keeping the original frame? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Glad to see it is going to get built. If memory serves that is a Jon Byers flame job as well. You just need him to do the other side and your set.
HotRod Cowboy, I would like to get a frame also but not in the cards for the wagon right now but it could happen in the future (for my 51 chevy hardtop project) Hi Brock, good to see ya yesterday, ya I heard those are original Byer flames.
First weekend at home and good progress was made after reorganizing the garage to improve flow and room around the lift. pushing this pig around is not easy, but with some help of a friend we got it onto the lift. Day 1, FIrst project was the removal of the front sheetmetal Day 2 started with pulling the motor and trans (both are forsale) that went pretty easy so I decided no time like the present, lets yank the front susp. while I wait for the new Fatman Fab Mustang II front susp, I will start stripping the firewall of parts and the 2 vertical ribs in preparation of new motor mounts and filling holes.
Ken,I would be leery about posting anything about a mustang II front suspension,it seems here lately the mention of them gets threads deleted.HRP
since it's all out and begging for the info. whats the outside to outside framerail measurement? stock track width? those rails like perfect spot for jag setup to rest. i know still a don't talk about it except in the social group subject here on the hamb but i'm curious and like to add in the it's a possible in ______ car/truck list i have.
Lucky, I will take some measurement of the rail width for you. HRP, I would hope just using the word would not get it delete, I am not going to do a How To. just mentioning what I am using under the car, it will still have a traditional look, like my other 49-54 chevys i have built.
Very cool man. What sucks is yours will be up and running and I will still be plugging away on mine. Oh well can't wait to see it around.
Got the firewall stripped then I cut up the firewall and fabricated the smooth panel for the left side. next is to build a template for the other side and cut a panel to fit.
Ken,you are making some quick progress,looking forward to watching the wagon come to life,as others have said you are meant to be a wagon guy! HRP
Looking good! I did both sides of the firewall on my 50 delivery. Sure saved a lot of hole filling. I used 16 gauge.
Rocky, I am also using 16 gage. its thick and a pain to cut thru with cutting wheels. (do not have a sheer and using a sawzall wont work for the detail. (not sure what others use) Other side fab'd but can not install until I get my MC bracket from Walton Fabrication to verify its location. tine to start the nasty work of removing the old MC, and unnecessary brackets from the frame.
quick update, and not much worth taking a picture of. spent my time in the garage today getting the rear end ready for removal, drilling out a a number of spot welds to remove about 8 brackets from the frame rails.
another update. Got a plate welded into the opening to mount the MC brackets and Booster to. Brake pedal assembly is installed also. Then finished installing the right side firewall panel to smooth it out. Spent some time stripping the frame of grim and extra rivets. Now just need the Fatman Mustang II to arrive. Ordered a Gambino 4 link kit for the rear. Now I need to start stripping the 8" (out of a granada) in prep of install.
My Gambino 4 link kit arrived and i finish measuring to emsure all is center and square . Since this is a wagon and not a car, after getting the kit I started to get nervous about interference with the folding rear set. Got lucky it appears the lower seat cushion in a wagon sits higher than a car so no interference with the upper 4 bar forward mount. No time like the present, sawzall in hand I decided to cut a small area to double check the fitment of the notch. I now have to worry the upper section (folding also) rear seat might interfer with the forward edge of the notch. (tomorrow morning I will install the upper seat back and verify (right now I need to move the notch another 1/2" to 1" forward (towards the front) to center the notch over the rear ( it will be very close to the back of the seat but hoping I have the necessary room (if not the upper seat cushion might have to have less lean back than stock. This is how far the notch will sit inside the back. (if I go full notch).
Got some more done this afternoon. The floor is now cut out for the notch and bridge I am now playing around with the location of the notch. I am finding the peak of the frame is not located directly above the rear (it is about 1" forward, which is due forward movement when the susp travels up). I am thinking I am going to center the notch about 3/4" forward of the axle center line so when the susp travels up (from its future new location about 7" higher than stock) when the air is let out of the bags, and the axle pivots, it will be centered when down. (or very close). I did a post of the main board asking if anyone knows how much forward movement you get went lowering it down. (from ride height). as an FYI, the marks on the frame is the peak location (and where the stock susp would touch if allowed to). the line on the noitch is the center of the notch, the string is the axle center line. (this is where I am thinking of locating. (it also aligns with the floor kick up behind the rear seat.)
different application but i moved the very similar welders series notch i used in my unibody forward of the old centerline either an inch if memory serves. i'm not bagged but dropped the rear probably 8+ inches and even with doing that i'm still considering when i redo some stuff moving my hangers a little to move the rear another 1/2" or so forward. i set mine up with the possiblity of it being set up for coilovers or bags at some point down the line....ken....
lucky, thanks for the input. at 3/4" now, I am close to that 1" forward you mentioned.. Do not want to move the rearend forward, I only have a 1.5" gap between the tire and forward edge of the fenderwell. as the car lowers, it will take some of the gap up real quick.
Since the HAMB went down for upgrades I have been making some progress of my own. Got the front susp tacked into place and I have moved back to working on the rear susp. The notch has been fully welded and the frame section cut out Last night I got the rearend positioned and tacked into place so I can start working on the 4 link brackets
not much to show tonight. Had more backward steps than forward. Had to untack the rearend and re-square it then the lower bracket I did last night was not at the right angle I noticed this afternoon. so another redo. I do make some progress with getting both lower brackets installed (tacked) and the forward locations positioned so I can start building my forward mounts.
Love what you're doing with the rear suspension. I would love to put a four link in mine, but I didn't want to lose the flat cargo area with a notch. Plus, I'm a teacher with two small children in daycare so I couldn't afford to anyhow. Did you find a tailgate yet?