Tonight, I scored a used Fuji stage 3 turbine unit for $99. Now, I will research earlier posts in this thread to get the garden hose specs and also start shopping for a gun. Sounds just like a newbie like me would say it! "look how easy it's gonna be to paint!" Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I just ordered a new Sprayfine turbine - compatible HVLP gun for $139 and 2 of the garden hose adapters for $6.99 ea. I will have to get another 1.00mm setup for the gun. It comes with 1.3. So far I am happy with these prices. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Would be interested in building my own as long as there is a complete part list available. Does anyone know if the fine woodworking article is complete? Sometimes these things are 80%..... Don't want to end up with $400 worth of parts that don't quite actually make something useful when the whole thing is available for under $600. Sounds like some of the hose connections (from motor to garden hose) aren't exactly straightforward? I couldn't find anything else online regarding a build-it-yourself guide.
Hey, Has anyone used the late model Titan/Capspray unit? Given what a stage 4 or 5 turbine pump puts out, I can't figger what a guy painting automobiles would want with all that c.f.m.? And..............overreduction of paint material to allow for better flow out ain't a great idea for colour holdout!
There really is no need for over-reduction. Most of that comes from the early days of the turbines when a 2 stage was considered the hot ticket, and even then the 2 stages weren't very good. I have shot quite a bit of SS urethane with a current 2 stage, without extra reduction, and a Sicmo gun. Gary, I like it! I would only add one 2 things though, and that would be a duct from the inlet of the motor cooling fan (black end cap) to the outside for cooler air. I fear what you have now will lead to shortened motor life due to over heating. Also if you do not have it already, you will need to drill a 3/16" bleed hole in your PVC adapter so that the turbine can bypass some air when the trigger is not pulled on a non-bleeder gun. If you don't do this, the turbine life will be short.
I figured that the muffin fan would bring in enough outside air to keep the inside box temperature ok. do you think that isn't so? It's rated at 106cfm
Thanks Gary! That looks awesome. Can you give some details about how you transitioned from the motor outlet to the garden hose fitting? And if you don't mind telling, what's your total investment? Great job! I'm inspired...... Joe
Gary, What I see is the motor possibly re-circulating the air. You could try it if you have a way to monitor the motor temperature. All commercial made units have a totally separate (and filtered) sealed air path from the outside of the box, through the motor and back out (through louvers etc). Is this overkill? Not sure as I have not ventured away from that design. Now if you had the muffin fan directed at the inlet of the motor fan.....
The transition piece is a 1 1/2' PVC cap with a 3/4 hose to 3/4"npt epoxied into the end of it.I didn't have a 3/4 pipe tap. With the new turbine, fan, remote switch, I've got right at $100. in it
The inside dimensions are 11 1/4" long, 10 1/2" wide, and 9 1/2" deep. Its just made out of 3/4" MDF. I'll probably add a 3" duct from the outside to the fan on the end of the motor to ensure adequate cooling. The end size was determined by the filters I used.
Appreciate all the info Gary. I'm gonna start gathering stuff. Thought I'd search for an off-the-shelf metal enclosure that I can modify as wood and I don't get along very well. I'll post my results as well. I'm a few months from needing to use it, so not in a hurry but like Blue One, I seem to never have enough projects to work on at the same time..... I'm probably going to use it mostly for primer, and chassis painting, but who knows, maybe doing this will embolden me to squirt color on something.
Sicmos (inc American Turbine and Lex-aire) are all bleeders, as are TP's, Sprayfines, Lemmers, Early Apollo and Fuji Models, Earlex, older Wagner, Croix and older Graco. Current Apollo, Fuji, Graco Edge, Turbinaire, Accuspray (3M), Capspray, and similair are all non-bleeders. If you get into the design of enclosures, you will find designs like the one you did are the simplest, but loudest. The ideal box will make the air make a couple turns but not have a clear path to reflect sound energy. Hope this picture helps, the air comes in through the holes on the right side of the box, through a foam filter, into a cavity, then through the yellow tube into another cavity, then into the turbine inlet. This is the fuji Q series turbine which is much quieter than the others. Of course if noise doesnt matter, keep it simple.
I have an older Simco gun that I bought back in the 80's. It was setup to run from a compressor and was a non bleeder. I converted it for a turbine, but couldn't see any way to incorporate an air valve in it.
I just shot some 2k urethane primer with the tp turbine and it would hardly come out of the gun. Mixed 4 to 1.,with a 1.8 rod and cap. About 70 degrees outside. It was spitting and gumming up at the tip. The primer and hardner were about a year and a half old since last time I used them (worked great then). Was the stuff to old to use or some other problem. Would to wide a fan setting cause this problem ? Thanks.
My guess is either that the material is shot, or your cup is not getting pressurized. Check for cup sealing, a check valve thats installed the correct way and open, etc. A 1.8 is pretty high output, but should do fine, I usually use a 1.5 for primer. 32v, I think you are thinking of a compressor powered "conversion" hvlp gun, turbine hvlps use pressure assist fluid flow, so the tip sizes are smaller than the conversion guns. Most colors and clears are shot in the 1.0 to 1.2 range.
Yes they are.....with the exception of the 10G with the metal cup. The Gravity PPS version of the 10G uses pressure. Everyone else uses pressure on their gravity feeds, and it makes good sense. For your 10g, you can just add a hose connection where the vent is on the cups cap. Look at the Apollo, Fuji, American Turbine etc gravity cups (they are all the same as the 10g) for how to do it. I really dont know why accuspray did not run cup pressure on the metal gravity cups, it took a great gun and make it a good one.
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