Technical First time start after engine rebuild?

I have a rebuilt Y block in my 56 victoria build.Its a 292 with the dash not installed .How do i hot wire it to start it? Thanks

 

Is this a trick question????

 

I wave my wand, recite the magical incantation, and the wires hook themselves up...

Are you looking to wire it permanently in the car, or just a a temp solution to get the motor started?

 

To run it needs power to the coil and to spin it needs power to the starter/solonoid.

Now thiMk.

 

But, not 12V to the coil! You can use 12v to start it, but it needs to switch to 6-8v once it is running or you will fry the coil. If you wanted to rig something up to just start it I would get a generic ignition switch, a starter solenoid & and a battery. Heavy wire from + side of battery to starter solenoid (assuming neg ground system) and heavy wire from starter solenoid to starter. Heavy ground wire from (-) side of battery to good ground on the engine. Now run a wire from the + side of the starter solenoid (where the battery connects) to the BAT connection on the Ignition switch. A wire from the start terminal of the starter solenoid to the ST connection on the Ignition switch. There is a second connector on the front of the starter solenoid that wires straight to the coil + side. This is used during cranking only! Connect a wire from the ING connection on the Ignition switch to a coil resistor and then from the coil resistor to the coil + side (this is the power to the coil when the Ignition switch is in the run position). The neg (-) side of the coil connects to the points connection on the distributer. That should do it. When you hold the key to START it applies current to the starter solenoid which connects the battery to the starter and applies 12v to the coil. When you release the key and it returns to the RUN position, current is removed from the starter solenoid and applied to the coil through the resistor (which should be 6-8v at the coil).

 

Traditional 10 year olds know how to hot wire a car.
Traditional 13 year olds can run an engine on the ground.

These guys have you covered

 

Thanks Mr SeerY.Got it!Yes this is temporary till i get my Dash installed.I rewired the dash with a Rebel 9+3 kit .

 

If you are wanting to go even simpler, use jumper wires and connect battery to an engine ground and hold the other end (from battery + side) to the starter to turn the engine over (a lot of sparks and a little welding!!). To power the ignition, connect a wire from the + side of battery through a resistor to the + side of the coil. That's about as simple as it can get!

 

Thanks again MR SEERY Thats what i was looking For!

 

I guess I'm not as brave as you are. I would never fire up a rebuilt motor without some gauges hooked up. A used motor, probably, even on the ground. Never a new or rebuilt. But that's just me.

 

If it was said above then let me repeat myself. Before you fire up the engine, bring the oil pressure up, let it circulate. I did this for a motor that was sitting a long time. I remember spinning a distributor shaft with a drill motor.
Good luck

 

if its a fresh rebuild it needs a cam break in run for 20 minutes the first time its started.

 

Bad info, it fries the points and it takes about 60-100 miles (ask me how I know). The coil could care less. '56 Ford is 6V stock.

It only needs cam break in if it has a new cam or new lifters. Yes it needs oil circulated through the engine before it is lit.

 

It's pretty simple to buy an $8 ballast resistor and wire it to the coil to make it run without frying the coil before the cam break in is done.

 

Have to disagree on the fried coil issue. It may depend on a lot of variables, but back in the 60's in my drag racing days, I fried several coils until I figured out the cause! I can assure you in some cases it will fry the coil in a very short period of time! One of many lessons learned the hard way. I still have a grove in my index finger from hooking up a tail light on that same car and melting a wire into my finger. A dead short on a battery creates a lot of heat fast!

 

I'm an Electrical Engineer and think I am correct on this but may need to do some research to be sure (I have spent too many years working of aircraft wiring and may have forgotten/mixed up some of my automotive knowledge). The points are the items that shouldn't care about the voltage, they are protected by the capacitor, it is the coils that are rated for 6-8 volts. If you burnt up the points I would think that would be because of a bad capacitor. On a lot of cars it is hard to tell what the voltage is going to the coil (without actually measuring it) because most factory wire harnesses incorporate a resistance wire from the ignition switch to the coil and do not need an addition "resister" wired in the circuit. When you rewire an ignition system is when you can run into the issue. But coils will not take a 12v input for very long. In my experience it has been minutes, but there may be cases where you can get by for a hundred miles. Think it would depend on the amount of built in resistance is in the circuit as all systems are not wired the same. Also, on most cars you end up with more like 14.5 volts in the run mode which is really putting a load on an unprotected coil. I can research this further if anyone is really that interested in the details of why the voltage to the coil needs to be in the 6-8 volt range, but ether way it does require the voltage drop.

 

Have a fire extinguisher handy.