Ok so I'm starting my first Ford project it's a 57 ford fairlane 4 door. Spent most of my money on the car as of now so I decided to lower it the old school way untill I got the money to do otherwise. So I dropped the rear with 3in lowering blocks and wanted to cut the springs to lower the front. The blocks went in as easy as they should have but when it came to the front I removed the shock drum and unbolted the spindle from the upper a arm but could not get the coil to come loose I am very unfamiliar with fords. Does any one have any advice that might help. Here are some photos of when I got it to the rear end being lowered Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Safety first- are you using a decent spring compressor? Many auto part stores will loan or rent one to you cheap.
Based on your limited information about your approach to the front end disassembly, I would suggest that you stop working on it and get some help from a person that really knows what he is doing. You should also get a spring compressor as was suggested by Jetnow1. Taking one of those front springs out without knowing what you are doing can be very very dangerous.
That spring can take your head off. Go to the Library (remember them?) and see if they still have an old Motor manual, or pick one up from a swap meet or used bookstore. There will be general procedures and safety alerts for most of these "repairs".
Nice advice. Guy is having issues with getting a spring out and you want him to screw up his brakes. Back when the 57's were new we didn't remove the springs to drop them. Remove the shock with the front wheel off the ground. Cut the bottom coil into 4 equal pieces and pop them out through the shock hole. The other way is to just heat the spring in the second coil and let it drop down on top of the bottom coil. The Wizzard
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Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App! Sorry I did not give you enough info I was trying to get to the point. I first jacked the car up on stands removed the shock. Then I removed the drum from the spindle. Next I put the jack under the lower arm and raised it up so if I got it loose it would take off. I then removed the bolt on the bottom of the spindle I then slowly lowered the jack while using a spring compressor tool I rented. It did not come loose. So I bolted the bottom of the spindle back together and tried unbolting the upper side and still nothing. So I was obviously missing something so I stopped put everything back together before I screwed something up and now I'm here asking for help. All of my zurk fitting are all shot so my plan was to replace all those and ball joints if necessary while I was in there. No I won't heat the springs and like I said I don't have the extra money to buy springs or convert to disk brakes all the money I have is going to registration insurance minor tune up and replacing all the zurks to make it a more solid daily driver I just figured since I had the lowering blocks already then I could possibly lower the car and make it look cool without spending a dime then why not. Thank you to those who were able to give me advice as soon as I can get a day off I'll be right back at it with more pics
When I do this job, I generally put a jack under the lower control arm shaft and unbolt the 4 bolts attaching it to the crossmember. Stay out by the wheel and slowly let it down, facing the side of the car. If the spring should leap out, it will go away from you but I've never had one jump out. If the spring stays in, Carefully take the jack out and push down on the control arm shaft with a long tool like a 5 foot 2X4. There should be very little tension on it by this time and usually the spring falls out on the shop floor. This has worked for me on countless GM kingpin-style front ends and one 55 ford sedan..a lot safer than loosening the ball joint IMHO.
What you have is the tapper of the Ball Joint stud very well seated in the spindle. That's the way it should be. There is a Tool called a Pickle Fork that is used to brake the lock. You can also do it with a short handle Mall (very large hammer) and no tool. You want to leave the nut on the Ball Joint but loose about 4 turns. With stands under the frame and A frame hanging you drive the Pickle Fork between bottom of spindle and Ball Joint. That generally splits the rubber boot. Without the fork and using a Mall turn the spindle to full lock and very Squarely smack the spindle right on the Ball Joint boss. You may need to do this 2 or 3 times. DO NOT JUST HAMMER THE HELL OUT OF IT. This is a machined tapper lock you just want to jar and brake loose. With the nut still on the ball joint nothing will fly out. Once the lock is broken the spring pushes the 2 pieces apart. Now put your jack under the ball joint and lift just enough to get the nut the rest of the way off and let the jack down and the spring will drop out. Do yourself a favor and don't cut 2 full coils. 1 is plenty and 1-1/2 will mean removing the bump stop and a really bad ride. Best of luck,, The Wizzard
Here are 2 more small tips. Make sure your car is high enough to drop the lower A-Frame to vertical, hanging down. Loosen the 2, 9/16 head bolts at the inner A-Frame bushings so they will rotate on there shafts. Take total A-Frame length plus the height of your floor jack completly compressed. You need to be at least that high off the ground to start with. Put your jack under from the side not the front so it can roll inboard as the A-Frame comes down. Hmmm, I guess that's 3 tips. The Wizzard
Thanks guys I really appreciate the help like I said if I can get a day off I will hit you guys with some pics of the process and results Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Update Installed new coil water pump and remanufactured carburetor she is now running so good I've been driving her more than my "reliable daily driver" says my wife Next is minor tuning and then wheels and tires
Awesome. They do drive nice when running well. My 57 was my only car for a year or so and it didnt bother me one bit. Good luck with everything Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
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