Precise Alignment with a Digital Level

I want to Thank Scotty for reposting the photos on this thread when they disappeared. This is one of the most helpful threads I have seen on the HAMB and we can all probably use the info here sooner or later.

 

Wish I would have seen this post 2weeks ago.......

I would have bought some new tools

 

Just another success story using this method

I helped my neighbor rebuild the front end of his 2005 suburban.

He came back from the alignment shop with the report, and here is how far we were "out" using string

Caster right on, they added a bit more on the pass side
Camber +1/2 deg to much on the pass side
Total toe 0.6 deg to much toe, the specs are almost dead straight on this one.

 

thanks for the time and sharing a line

 

I just finished rebuilding the front end on my 50
Its a mid 70s f body subframe

+0.5 deg camber
+3.75 deg caster both sides
1/8" total toe

Its got a bit of a pull to the right.
So more caster on the right helps drive it to the left?

Thanks

Edit
Found what I was looking for, sounds good to me I'll try it out

"
STEADY PULL

This is a condition where the vehicle continually pulls or drifts to one side while traveling straight. The driver typically has to maintain steady pressure on the steering wheel to keep the vehicle on the road. Possible causes include:
• Uneven camber side-to-side. Too much cross-camber can make a vehicle pull or lead towards the side that has the most (positive) camber or away from the side that has the least (negative) camber. "

http://www.aa1car.com/library/steerpul.htm
Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Wow! Kick ass that y'all still use this thread!

 

got my O/t exploder to the alignment shop 20 miles away , and was barely off the tech said . and I used a old style inclinometer with a magnetic base to set it up . the old eyes trying to read the dial were the problem .

wish I had this info years ago instead of spending the dough .

 

Great thread. On the circle track cars we find the C/L of the chassis, square the rear. String the car off the rear end and then set the front. Order I've used is toe, caster, camber, repeat.

The circle track supply houses all carry a caster/camber gauge that has a magnetic base to fit the wheel hub. It makes this a lot easier.

Didn't see bump steer mentioned. A lot of times a bad alignment is actually bump steer. Adjusting that is a complete thread on its own.

 

This thread is a classic example of true hod rodding and can't be replaced. Thanks Scotty

 

This thread looks like an 'oldie but goodie' too bad the pictures disappeared; or is it just my computer...?

 

They are gone, darn it all to hell.

 

Pics are back up!

 

This article is from 2009.

 

and still one of the best tech articles on here.

 

X 2 ^^^^^^

 

Thanks Scotty!
This one is my go to when I do front end work. I've stopped going to the alignment shop now

 

Great tech.
I have a buggy sprung, solid axle rod.
Is there a consensus on alignment specs?
Thanks.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

I should note that I do LOT of freeway driving.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

thanks Scotty for showing how this "magic" is done. I've saved this to a file.

Years ago, when working for an independent shop, we used somewhat the same procedure with a car raised up on stands and some funky-looking (commercial) swivel pads under each tire that allowed the angular movements.

The camber was checked/adjusted with a 90deg gadget that magnetically attached to the hub face.
IIRC, it was something like this....



(This req'd removing the dust cap, but no big deal)
We got good results and satisfied customers.
Never understood exactly what was going on, but this article shed light on it.
Thanks again,
gatz

 

Yes it is. That's why I said it was from 2009. I like good posts that hang around.