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Projects Oh no not another Willys Gasser build, this time a Willys shop truck

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by langy, Dec 8, 2013.

  1. Are you going to take a mould off this when it's done?
     
  2. hasty
    Joined: Jul 5, 2009
    Posts: 1,411

    hasty
    Member

    Inspiring work as ever
     
  3. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus


    Yes absolutely Geoff, that's why I'm making an effort to get it right.
     
  4. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Could anyone tell if Willys pickup doors had garnish mouldings ???
     
  5. 41 Dave
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 2,594

    41 Dave
    Member

    Langy, That body is sure coming along real nice. Will the bed be aluminum ? Be a sharp way to advertise your business . . . . .

    Dave
     
  6. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus


    Funny you should mention it Dave as I was thinking about making a aluminium bed but it was just so more expensive and I thought the Steel would be better for a driver, I made the bed a few weeks ago.


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  7. found this thread too late, red for the last two hours, ... not much stainless, he said .... just a driver, he said.... man Steve, :) what's goin' on here?

    a good read again, and amazing craftmanship again.. fun to watch your work!

    Cheers, Carsten
     
  8. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Just because its a driver don't mean it has to be lacking in detail mate, If you look at it again it has minimal stainless, just a few highlights to stop it looking bland.
     
  9. I like the way you think Steve!!

    Can't wait to see more!!

    Bill
     
  10. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Thanks Bill.
     
  11. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Well a little bit of progress, started glassing the various pieces together, most of the glasswork is underneath but I had to get it stuck together solidly to turn the shell over.

    First the sills were attached to the rear of the body



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    Then in between the bits of aluminium sheet was glassed to hold it together while the aluminium was removed. Then it was glassed up fully.



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    The lower cab rear corners had been hacked about quite badly so these had to be repaired before the flloor went in.



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    The floor was then bolted back in and glassed at the rear & front, next job is to glass the flloor to the sills and then turn the body over for the underneath to be done.



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  12. Gojeep
    Joined: Jun 1, 2008
    Posts: 124

    Gojeep
    Member
    from Australia

    Great watching it come together.
     
  13. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,758

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    Nice glass work Steve! It's itchy, but I enjoy working fiberglass.
     
  14. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Yup it's getting there now, thanks
     
  15. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Yes Vall it's a very adaptable medium, I don't mind it at all, cheers
     
  16. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Well got to a point where I needed an extra pair of hands so Allan (53pop) popped over to lend a hand, I needed the body upside down to glass in the floor and its getting heavier and awkward to move around.
    First job was to glass in the rear of the floor, I had had to cut the floor into 2 halves to get it in so the joint had to be fixed, while there we bonded in 2 short pieces of 1/2" square tube as strengtheners.



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    Next up was the front section of the floor & the sides



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    Next up was the cowl joint which came out real nice.



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    Had to alter part of the rear lower panel, I had the measurements from a stock pickup and I checked the rear panel and found out the lower cut out that fits over the frame was 1.25" to high in the panel, so I cut it out and moved it down to the correct place, the rear panel needed repairing anyway so no big deal, the pics tell the story.



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    This meant the last 4" of the floor needed to be angled very slightly so some more cutting was needed.



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    Dropped the body back on the frame for a looksee and it now fits much better so can glass up to finish it.



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    While the body was back on we loosely held the frontend in place for a looksee, the front is slightly high at the front by about 2 or 3" but you get the idea



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  17. PKap
    Joined: Jan 5, 2011
    Posts: 593

    PKap
    Member
    from Alberta

    Looks really nice. Were you able to sneak some extra length into the cab? Are you needing to build doors as well, or are they the same as the coupe?


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  18. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    I didn't bother stretching it in the end as I have kept most of the stock firewall so it seems to be about right for me (I'm 6ft), as far as I can see you need to keep as much foot room as possible in a truck for it to be comfortable.
    The doors need work but have them, they can be seen a few posts back in post 300
    The truck doors are completely different to coupe doors in many ways mostly on the inside though, the obvious differences on the outside is the length and the rear upper radius.
     
  19. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 8,758

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    Looks plenty roomy to me Steve! I also like that you kept it the stock size cab.
     
  20. Yaknow....When I saw the header "shop truck" and Langy together, I kinda knew it wasn't going to be just another "shop truck"......
     
  21. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Had a good day today and got a fair bit more done, the rear that I had started was finished off & the topside of the fllor that meets the rockers finished up.



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    Next up was the rear panel joint to sort, a piece of flat wood was screwed to cover the joint and pull every thing flush and glassed in.



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    Next I turned my attention to the firewall, I found that the centre was bulging out slightly so this needed to be pulled back slightly, this had the added bonus of giving sufficient clearance for the dizzy to come out which saved me some work. A suitable prop was made in some scrap timberand screwed in place.



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    I glassed up 3 layers of matt on a piece of Melamine (this is great as it don't stick to it) as panels to cut to size.



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    The panels were cut to size and held in place with tape so the could be temporarily fixed in place with some bridging paste, then 3 more layers of matt will be applied to the inside to fully glass them in.



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    That's as far as I got.
     
  22. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Yes Vall, my motor is fairly well forward so managed to keep most of the cab front.
     
  23. UK Slingshot
    Joined: Feb 6, 2014
    Posts: 164

    UK Slingshot
    Member

    Good tip Steve. Will have to try and remember it.



    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  24. ROCKIT
    Joined: Sep 1, 2006
    Posts: 80

    ROCKIT
    Member

    Formica is often used to face moulds and if you want some really flat panels, a sheet of glass is great!
     
  25. 41 Dave
    Joined: May 23, 2005
    Posts: 2,594

    41 Dave
    Member

    langy, Looking forward to further build details on your Willys Pick Up. Looking real cool so far. Keep the updates a comin' !

    Dave
     
  26. Gojeep
    Joined: Jun 1, 2008
    Posts: 124

    Gojeep
    Member
    from Australia

    What were all the holes needed for in the floor along side the door opening?
     
  27. SimonSez
    Joined: Jul 1, 2001
    Posts: 1,637

    SimonSez
    Member

    I'm assuming it is to give the glass more 'bite' than there would be glassing onto a smooth surface.
     
  28. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    Correct, lots of laminators often use pegboard for the same reason.
     
  29. Gojeep
    Joined: Jun 1, 2008
    Posts: 124

    Gojeep
    Member
    from Australia

    Thanks for the explanation.
     
  30. langy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2006
    Posts: 5,730

    langy
    Member Emeritus

    A bit of progress made, its surprising but it took most of saturday to get the firewall filled in, its about 3/8" thick all over but the engine side still needs a few more layers yet, its certainly stiff & strong as I intend to hang a vintage heater from it.
    The engine side still needs tidying up and smoothing out and looks like a patchwork quilt but its all looking pretty good. Just got to sort out a slight recess for the dizzy and it will be done, then i can start putting in some steelwork and hanging doors.



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