You're right. They do tend to lean toward mostly stock vehicles. But there is a Model T modified class though I'm not sure how well your car would fit in. In their FAQ section looks like there are certain modifications they'll allow if you're willing to accept a time penalty. F-1M Ford Model T Modified 1909 through 1927 • stock-block - required • non-pressurized fuel induction system - required • stock frame - length may be modified a maximum of 4± inches. • model T front axle - required • stock wheel diameters - required • stock differential - required • stock planetary 2-speed transmission with reverse - required • exact period auxiliary transmission - acceptable • Ruckstell rear axles - acceptable • Rocky Mountain Brakes - acceptable • electric fuel pump - acceptable
You can run about anything in the speedster class at NewPort In. The other classes are for "stock " cars.
Thanks. I didn't use the entire Pontiac oil pump, just the gears (ebay, $8). I believe they are 40 or 41. But actually any gear set would work. These were just convenient and cheap. I machined the oil pump (the aluminum cylinder at the lower right front of the engine) from billet and then lapped the gears in on the lathe. The thing will shoot a stream of oil 40'. Neil Jern has done some great work. His adapter plate includes a rather complex hemispherical geometry that I am convinced enhances performance. With regard to the stock T (I have two) there is no fair way to compare. The racer just leaves them at whatever speed. I ain't you're daddy's T anymore.
That looks like it would be more fun than a barrel of flying monkeys to drive! Nice job- she's a beauty.
It's a stock '23 T frame. Not pinched at the rear mounts. Might have that appearance because the engine is at a 3 degree angle to mate with the Model A drive train. The only real mod to the frame are the Z's at the rear cross member. They drop the rear by 5". With the combination of the dropped front end (drop axle 4" and perch mounts -1", and the 5" drop in the rear the drain plug will just clear an American 4"X4" post. Low is good, it definitely makes for some fun cornering.
Thanks. Frame rail covers were an afterthought. Just didn't like the bare-assed frame hanging out there. The steeringi is not stock. Tried the T box and scared the crap out of myself. Got a Vega box on Craig's List for 30 bucks and used it. Some day I may find a suitable period box but for now it's cheap and safe for daily driving.
Really cool T speedster!!! One question though, do you only run one intake port? I only see one carb and it appears that the other is blocked off? How does that work or am I missing something?
You are not missing anything. I wanted to her fired up and only had one carb (NH) ready to go. I will put the second one on in the next few days. She runs OK but I thing the front cylinders might be starved a little. Will report on how much difference the second carb makes.
Got the headlights installed. Had to think about how to do it. They are aerodynamic and rock solid. Also got the numbers on (I was born in 1945) and I am sure they add about 10 MPH! Fun as hell to drive...
That is a nice looking lowering bracket on the front axle - is it something you have made up or a period piece?
I think all the superlatives have already been bestowed upon your speedster. Really nice work! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I had a set of the Laurel type lowing blocks for the front end but didn't like them, couldn't get the spring to sit right. The brackets I used are from a local (Florida) guy who does water jet work and makes bucket T and other Rod parts. He modified a set of his brackets for me so they fit like the Laurel or other period types (using the perch bolt holes) but make it easier to get angles right. When I researched this aspect I found that in the day, lots of guys didn't have a spare $10 for such accessories and made their own from what was on hand. For me it's also a safety issue. I am most comfortable when the front end stays attached...
Forgot to mention too, if you notice, the radius rods are original Model T, not after market. The lowering bracket also made it easier to adapt these. Found two wishbones and two beat up 3 dips at a swap meet, all for $50. Rebuilt the balls on the bones and took the socket and caps from the pans. One alternative to Heim joints.
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