HI, I am planning on putting a 428 in my 56 fairlane. Anyone who has done this before please let me know what to do what not to do. What works what doesnt. Which engine mounts work best. which headers. Whats the best way to avoid steering linkage issues. I also plan to install a toploader 4 speed. Any advice is appreciated. thanks
Click on this and join us:http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/group.php?groupid=332 We have had several guys that have done the swap there to help you.
Can't believe nobody spoke up... It's been a long time and I may be rusty on details, but this swap is as close to a bolt-in as it gets (except for headers...) and was very popular 'back in the day'. Use the original Y-block motor mounts on the FE and drop it in.. Use any toploader except for a early Falcon/Comet (doubt you'll see one, they're rare), again it should land on the stock crossmember. Use a '58-64 FE clutch pivot bracket for the original clutch linkage with some minor linkage mods. You can use a later bracket too, but IIRC that will need minor mods. You'll need a V-8 radiator, make sure it's in good shape, use a 160 thermostat if you want the OEM gauge to read right. Exhaust is a problem... The '58-64 FE 'log' manifolds will fit right in, you'll just need new pipe between them and the mufflers. Headers is another story. Ford Powertrain Applications makes a set of shorty header for this swap, but I've been told these need clutch linkage mods or a hydraulic clutch; call FPA for details. Crites makes a set of multi-piece long tubes, but you need their 'special' mounts and a bunch of other mods as they move the motor quite a bit in the compartment in order to fit the headers. Again, call for details. Back in the day, if you wanted headers you gas-axed the frame and used a straight axle... Upgrade the driveshaft/rear axle. Again, IIRC '57-59 Ford bits will bolt in (I know the axle will). The stock rear u-joint is a particular weak point with big power... A couple of minor details... Install an electric wiper motor if you want wipers that actually work (Newport Engineering has a bolt-in kit). If you want temp control on the OEM heater, transfer the vacuum valve on the Y-block over (if it's still there; doubtful) or use a '68-72 ford truck manual temp valve in the hose and use the truck's longer cable to connect to the OEM dash control. If I remember right, the OEM Y-block molded radiator hoses will fit as-is. If the car has power steering, convert to manual. Not because it's in the way, but because the aftermarket idler arm bushings aren't cheap, won't last, and are a PITA to change.
My 56 with a 352 FE I made my own headers. Crites makes modern looking headers but you must run an auto trans. I'm running an OD stick trans and I like the look of the 60s style headers. Pobably doesn't make the most HP but they will be just fine doing 75 on the interstate. The FE cast iron maniflolds look like bricks to me. I trimmed the edge of the upper control arm mount for some more clearance. I made some 1/4" thick spacers between the motor mounts and the frame pads. The Y block mounts bolted right up to the FE.
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