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Projects 1928 rpu

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by Tedders, Feb 28, 2014.

  1. OFT
    Joined: Jun 1, 2005
    Posts: 574

    OFT
    Member

    I'm "made" for model T's and A's (I have a '29AA dually) as I'm 5'5" around 140 lbs.

    Earl
     
  2. Tedders
    Joined: Oct 18, 2012
    Posts: 419

    Tedders
    Member

    i think I'm going to pull the roof, its secured with the two main blots that slide when open and the it looks like its stapled? to the wood piece around the back of the seat..truthfully i don't know why I'm worrying about this still need to get the running boards off and find the cab bolts so i can lift it high enough to get the splash aprons off..
     
  3. Tedders
    Joined: Oct 18, 2012
    Posts: 419

    Tedders
    Member

    Sending in membership fee this week
     
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2014
  4. Tedders
    Joined: Oct 18, 2012
    Posts: 419

    Tedders
    Member

    Looking for pro tip on removing these nuts with a pin through

    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1396184068.658951.jpg
     
  5. Tedders
    Joined: Oct 18, 2012
    Posts: 419

    Tedders
    Member

  6. firetique57
    Joined: Nov 27, 2010
    Posts: 33

    firetique57
    Member

    The picture is fuzzy but it looks like a castle nut with a cotter key. The key is looped on one side and flat on the other. The flat side is bent over the nut once it is pushed through to keep it from coming out and the key then keeps the nut from coming loose. You can straighten the bent end out then pull on the looped end to remove it. Sometimes I just clip the bent end with a pair of dikes and then grab the loop with them and lever it out.
     
  7. Tedders
    Joined: Oct 18, 2012
    Posts: 419

    Tedders
    Member

    Thanks to firetique the nut is off, but he spare tire holder on the drivers fender will not move an inch..am I missing another fastener?
     
  8. Tedders
    Joined: Oct 18, 2012
    Posts: 419

    Tedders
    Member

    not going to lie…today sucks, everything is slow going. taking the bolts off the cowl/cab in order to pull splash guards..nothing wants to turn, really wish i could get her in the air..would make all the difference
     
  9. Tedders
    Joined: Oct 18, 2012
    Posts: 419

    Tedders
    Member

  10. Tedders
    Joined: Oct 18, 2012
    Posts: 419

    Tedders
    Member

    in order to remove the splash guards i need to take out the body mounts…carriage bolts..all spinning.^&%$^*%*%!!!!!!
     
  11. 3wLarry
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 12,804

    3wLarry
    Member Emeritus
    from Owasso, Ok

    ain't old cars fun?
     
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  12. Tedders
    Joined: Oct 18, 2012
    Posts: 419

    Tedders
    Member

    Just frustrating is all..I condemn the person that invented the carriage bolt. If anyone has some pro tips on dealing with them I am more then all ears.
     
  13. Tedders
    Joined: Oct 18, 2012
    Posts: 419

    Tedders
    Member

    Opened my radiator cap and smell gas?
     
  14. whtbaron
    Joined: Sep 12, 2012
    Posts: 579

    whtbaron
    Member
    from manitoba

    Might take some flack for being destructive with old parts, but I use the 3" hummer discs on my die grinder. When bolts like those carriage bolts get nasty I just cut them off flush with the metal. Unless they are really strange new carriage bolts shouldn't be a big deal. If you don't have air you might get away with chucking the hummer adapter into your drill, but it will be slow.
     
  15. Tedders
    Joined: Oct 18, 2012
    Posts: 419

    Tedders
    Member

    Thanks, going shopping tomorrow for grinder!
     
  16. Tedders
    Joined: Oct 18, 2012
    Posts: 419

    Tedders
    Member

    Massive ice storm hit us the last two days, no power for the last 31 hrs. so...little could be done on the car hoping next weekend I get allot done.
     
  17. This is a great thread. Tedders keep on truckin
     
  18. von Dyck
    Joined: Apr 12, 2007
    Posts: 678

    von Dyck
    Member

    Regarding post #80, I find using 3M rotating pads (double thickness) do a good job of removing rust and old paint as well as leaving enough "tooth" for primer to attach to. Approximately 3" diameter, they are available at CTC, Home Hardware, etc. for $10 to $12. Work good in the electric drill.
     
  19. Pop-Rodder
    Joined: Oct 6, 2011
    Posts: 325

    Pop-Rodder
    Member

    Been following your thread all along. I have a '29 roadster and am going through almost the exact same thing, problems and all, that you are. I bare framed mine and have been cleaning and painting and rebuilding everything, and slowly, ever so slowly, putting it all back together. My back and my budget being the deciding factors. The one thing I strongly recommend is buying the Les Andrews book, Model A Ford Mechanics Handbook Volume 1. It will show you almost every assembly procedure you need for a model a. It has become an invaluable reference tool for me. Now, bear in mind, it won't show hop-up procedures or items only stock. But being that your initial build will be about 90% stock, it is a must for showing where all the things go that you lost or don't remember. And that will happen as any rod builder will attest to.
    Now me personally, all I would do to that car is change the wheels and tires to 16's and run it. When you can afford to buy the things you want to change like the dist, intake and carb, exhaust, head, etc; change those as you get them. But if it runs and drives right now, do it! Once you start tearing it down, the deeper you go, the further you will go. Never fails. Next thing you know, it's a bare frame and it will be next year before it sees the road again.
    I'd keep the fenders, I love the look, but that's just me. Whatever you do, have fun with it man. It's a nice looking truck...lucky dog!
     
  20. Tedders
    Joined: Oct 18, 2012
    Posts: 419

    Tedders
    Member

    I felt like I wrote this lol, misery always loves company. This weekend I'm going after the carriage bolts with my new grinder so I can lift the cab and get the splash guards off. Then taking the truck bed off..power wash the over the top greasing and grime get it as clean as possible then I have a feeling it will be 4 weeks of me and the wire wheel. As for the engine I have someone interested in the wheels who has experience with model A so I think we made trade wheels for services,
     
  21. Tedders
    Joined: Oct 18, 2012
    Posts: 419

    Tedders
    Member

    Thank you sir
     
  22. Tedders
    Joined: Oct 18, 2012
    Posts: 419

    Tedders
    Member

    Thanks I was just doing searches on this, and saying home hardware means your a fellow Canuck which means I can go out and buy this, the cordless drill does not have the rpm needed, or the wire brush was to fine...I will get into this on the weekend fingers crossed.
     
  23. 4 banger 4 life
    Joined: Jan 26, 2014
    Posts: 301

    4 banger 4 life
    Member
    from ohio

    keep up the good work nice rpu...
     
  24. Tedders
    Joined: Oct 18, 2012
    Posts: 419

    Tedders
    Member

    Thank you
     
  25. Tedders... (a tedder is a hay turning machine in this part of the world), the words of Pop-Rodder are words of wisdom indeed, and the path to maximum fun per time/dollar. There is one item you need as much as you need an angle grinder and 3M paint-stripping wheel..... and that is patience. Reading old threads on here and on the FordBarn is the passport to knowledge. In fact the Model A forum over at FordBarn may even net you more knowledge than the Hamb.
     
  26. Pop-Rodder
    Joined: Oct 6, 2011
    Posts: 325

    Pop-Rodder
    Member


    Looks like I was too late with this one, eh? Lol. Now that you're this far, take your time, think things through and hopefully you will only do them once!
    Number one rule to remember, If it aint broke, don't fix it. You want it on the road as soon as possible. You can buy and change things later, as you go along. Cruises and shows are coming up and you wanna be there, running and driving. Unless you have money coming out your...uh..."money hole", put it back together like it came apart, only with new gaskets and paint. There's no shame in driving a hard to start, no horsepower, no top end banger motor. At least you're in the wind...#1 priority!
    Keep us appraised of whats going on and don't forget the pics.
     
  27. Tedders
    Joined: Oct 18, 2012
    Posts: 419

    Tedders
    Member

    I promise I have been diligent in my research, here and ford barn. I'm not completely green just haven't had a project this deep before. Because of my extreme A.D.D it may sound like I am doing many things but I think I am still being realistic for my timeline.

    Remove fenders, running boards,splash guards etc (damn Running boards)
    Remove seats, cleaned out the interior and removed bench seat floor mount, remove the surface rust off and painted floor and seat mount.. woods in amazing condition
    Removed roof
    Drain and remove radiator ( radiator shell in good nick, may re-paint)
    Remove truck bed ( remove paint surface rust)
    Original wheels off replaced with 16 x4.50 front 17 x7.50 back
    Trade wheels for engine being pulled and cleaned/painted ( get new hoses etc, distributor, alternator, new coil etc..hold off on expensive intake and head)
    Power wash off dirt, grease etc from the frame
    Wire brush and 80 grit sanding till hands bleed
    Paint frame rust protector tremclad etc
    Pull front end (axle, spindles, steering arms, perches) send off to Joe in Ok 2 maybe 2 1/2 drop in the front reusing mech brakes. Joe has a kit!
    Pull brakes, clean, paint, install flathead Ted kit
    Continue wire brush, sand, paint protect procedure ..everywhere
    Remove windshield etc, would like to pull tank and replace the lacing in between..but have heard horror stories on fitting the aftermarket webbing.
    Pull doors, cab, wire/sand paint

    Reassemble..drive away

    2 months maybe even three and a half..it's do able no?
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2014
  28. hemi rodder
    Joined: Oct 10, 2011
    Posts: 510

    hemi rodder
    Member
    from NB Canada

    if I was closer I would give you a hand to get it done, will try this spring and take the roadster out to see you for a day
     

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  29. Tedders
    Joined: Oct 18, 2012
    Posts: 419

    Tedders
    Member

    So tomorrow is another day, picked up a new grinder and various wire brush, cup, flapper and cutting discs. Going after the carriage bolts holding the cab in place so I can hopefully get the cab up and remove splash guards then grind down and drill out the rivets on the running boards as the just won't budge. I was going to grind off the top of the carriage bolts that are spinning, but it's so close to the sheet metal of the cowl..worried I will go through it. So think I will punch them and drill through instead. Going to use a few wooden blocks a couple of inches to hold the cab up and get the splash guards out. Then get the truck bed off. Monday will see about when I can get the engine pulled and cleaned/painted. I'm glad it's coming out as it will allow me better access to clean the frame and fire wall up with the wire brush. Will let you know how it goes...
     
  30. Tedders
    Joined: Oct 18, 2012
    Posts: 419

    Tedders
    Member

    Slow going..bolt that is inside cowl by the fire wall, striped can't get grinder in there to cut it off..sigh
     

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