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1930 Roadster Build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by ml_engr, Jan 27, 2013.

  1. 510madmav
    Joined: Dec 29, 2009
    Posts: 814

    510madmav

    Its looking really good. Awesome job.
     
  2. 67cst
    Joined: Oct 7, 2005
    Posts: 114

    67cst
    Member

    Good looking dolly for the project. My neighbors a framer he built mine. Looks like you guys think alike.
     

    Attached Files:

  3. ml_engr
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 121

    ml_engr
    Member

    So everyone who as said these are a PITA...is correct.
    I happy to have them in, I will beat them into shape later.
    I also cut out the wheel wells to gain access. There were muliple layers of patches in there. Its going to take some work to get these right but, I am not going to worry about that until the 32 frame I am ordering is ready.

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    I also made a dot3 soup for some pontiac taillights I got of that auction site...nothing original here.

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    Last edited: Apr 8, 2013
    Stogy likes this.
  4. ml_engr
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 121

    ml_engr
    Member

    Alright havent posted in a while...nothing too exciting going on. Been cleaning up some parts I picked up in the last few months. Managed to get a 1940 banjo, brakes, 4 and 4.5 x 16 wheels. Working to get them ready for a 32 frame I ordered.

    My electrolysis science experiment has been working over time. I wish I had space for a blast cabinet...but this works quite well.

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    Cleaned up the brakes using this method and then hit them with some paint.

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    flipped the car around so I can get started on the other side. Lots more to do. I am looking forward to the 2 layers of steel in the wheel wells.

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  5. ml_engr
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 121

    ml_engr
    Member

    So got some more work done. I have been looking forward to cuting this out for a while. Its going to take a bit to clean up this mess.

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    Replaced the corner after I cut the crap out

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    Then finished up the inner door and got the new skin on. Nice to have 2 doors again

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    Hope to find some time to work on the quarter patch, then when my frame arrives I can start lining it all up.
     
    Stogy likes this.
  6. Shaun1162
    Joined: Feb 22, 2010
    Posts: 955

    Shaun1162
    Member

    Excellent work on the roadster so far... Body is going to look spotless when you're done with it!
     
  7. all4sho
    Joined: Jul 20, 2013
    Posts: 26

    all4sho
    Member
    from Byron,GA

    that looks awesome, nice project
     
  8. toreadorxlt
    Joined: Feb 27, 2008
    Posts: 733

    toreadorxlt
    Member
    from Nashua, NH

  9. ml_engr
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 121

    ml_engr
    Member

    So I havent completely been ignoring the project. An update with pics is coming.
    Not too much progress to report just been collecting parts. Picked up a complete 40 truck steering column, 40 rear spring, posies model a front spring. Found the missing bits for my juice brakes. Set of clear 1931 license plates, 1920 model t gas tank, Headlight buckets 682J, 1957 power pack heads, and other 50's sbc parts (including a trashed 1956 265), got a 40 front wishbone from Vern Tardel ....and drumroll...

    Picked up my 32 frame from Gary Maxwell...and holy shit is it badass
     
  10. Cool project! Looks to have the "A" typical rust!
    Great idea using threaded rod to hold the door opening!
    Subscribed for sure!
     
  11. ml_engr
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 121

    ml_engr
    Member

    Well after a little BS I now have a roller to work on. Excited to see it starting to look like more than parts scattered around the garage. So now to give it a mini channel and build some rear sub-rails, mount it on the frame and then do everthing else...

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    Stogy likes this.
  12. ESGEE
    Joined: Feb 25, 2013
    Posts: 615

    ESGEE
    Member
    from Sweden

    Looking real good
     
  13. FYI
    One of the weakest points on a Model A roadster body is the area behind the door where it bends around to the back. After years of slamming the doors and pulling them open this area becomes work hardened and starts to crack. I took 1 1/2 angle iron and pie cut it, about 100 small slits, and formed it to the body under the lip that goes from the door to the rear deck. Once this was all shaped correctly I welded it all up and bolted it to the lip. You can't move the panel for love nor money now
     
    Stogy likes this.
  14. ml_engr
    Joined: Apr 15, 2012
    Posts: 121

    ml_engr
    Member

    Thanks Fuzzy. That is a great tip...and also explains the repair work in that area.
     
  15. Hurley50
    Joined: Feb 3, 2012
    Posts: 596

    Hurley50
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from NC

    Mine is cracked on both sides after welding up the old cracks. I like this idea with the angle iron.
     

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