Just another Model A Roadster-Drop Axle Mechanical brakes

You can fabricate up extensions for stock model A spring perches, however they look kinda hokey and don't look like Henry made them like the '32 perches.

In my opinion the '32 perches are the most important part to make the dropped axle look right and '32 spindles are cheap/ require no mods to clear the axle and the steering arm so why not?

Most People swap over the the '39-'48 spindles to add juice brakes so '32 spindles are cast offs right now and priced pretty cheap.

 

Im looking at doing this with my A but wanting to use just the model A parts.
Is the reason to go with the 32 perches so that the "extension" doesnt have to be so tall?
I assume that that is why using all A stuff would require a taller extension and thus look hokey right?

 

You got it Joe.
If you're asking perhaps others are wondering too. This picture might add to the visualization...

 

Perfect Bob,

I have read where the axles and wishbones vary in thickness from year to year.

IF the ONLY thing is changed is the Perch, is there any other modifications other than the "extension" necessary to use that perch?


And also, does anyone have any pics of doing the drop with all A parts to see how the A perch would look?

 

Keeping the mech. brakes with a dropped axle is no problem with a bit of fab. It does depend on what the owner wants it to look like, remain stock appearing or look fabbed. Here is the top part of I think a 35-36 perch bolt, the arm is a close match for the 32-34 perch bolts brake support arm. This piece could be used to repair one of the early bolts or to add to the model A bolts to give them a more stock appearance.

If one wanted to go custom some fabbed plate extentions out of 3/8" plate with some cool lightening holes is also an option. The perch bolts are made of good steel and can be welded.

 

I am back on this I think.

Okay, to clarify. Couple of questions:

1) If the 32 spindles are say, 1.5" taller than stock A perches, than you can only stretch drop the A axle 1.5" without the risor, or add the riser plate like Tex did and drop the axle even more right?

2) IF you were going to do the above and have a 32-36 axle available, is there any reason to even drop the A axle? Or just use this axle and perches without the riser for the 1.5 drop?


2) Or, would it be best to use the 32-36 axle and 32 perches, drop that axle 1.5" from stock and add a risor plate and effectively lower the car 3" that way.


I guess, how much exactly does the later axle ONLY lower the car?
I tend to get confused when guys say their axle is dropped 4" when they usually are only "dropped 2-2.5 inches FROM STOCK.

 

Swapping to a 33-36 axle over the model A will lower the front 1 1/2".

 

How much can you "stretch drop" an A axle as well as a 33-36 axle

As in difference from stock to post drop?

And are able to do this Harv, Mitch said you canned the jig you were working on.

 

When an axle is dropped the king pin bores come in and you end up with a narrower axle. A stretch drop keeps the stock axle width and the ends are stretched thinner to get the same ammount of drop as one that lets the ends come together. However, I have seen dropped axles that are narrower and stretched, so it can have different meanings, I guess. I did drill an axle for a HAMBer that was stretch dropped 5" total, it was very narrow on the ends.

I droped 3 axles with it, didn't like the way it worked, a new one is in the works.

 

Will you be doing it the "stretched " way as to keep the distance from the brake hole on the perch to backing plate stays the same, or can I just offset the new hole on the riser inwards ?

I assume if that's not taken into consideration, the brake piece won't fit properly.

While discussing, is there an advantage one way over the other to using A spindles vs 32 spindles.

 

The steering arms don't hit the bend in the dropped axle as bad with a stretch drop.

Model a spindles have the steering balls on the steering arms forged to the arm. For your tie rod to clear the wishbones, you would have to heat the ends of the model a spindle arms with a torch and twist them 180 degrees like taffy.

32 spindles have holes you insert a tapered ball into. You just redrill the taper from the bottom and insert ball and tighten nut. No torch needed.

 

^^^ Model A tie rod is above the wishbone stock, dropping the axle will raise it even higher, why do you need to bend/twist them?

 

Yeah, you're right. It was a clearance issue for me, so I guess it was too close to the oil pan not wishbone.

This car now has a mcculloch supercharged flathead in it so I can't go look anymore.

 

Basically the '32-'34 spindles are a bolt in for this application and make it super simple. Like Mel said the '32 spindles can accpet the tapered ball insert sold at any Model A store and you can retain the all the stock steering arm geometry with no modifications at all.

As far as the stock using the model A stock spindles you can make them work by heating them but '32-'34 spindles are pretty cheap on the ford barn , I think I paid like $80 including postage.

 

Great info and the A is looking good! Thanks for sharing the pics.

 

I just took it for a nice drive on sunday and it is one of the nicest riding Hot Rods I own.

I need to post some updated pictures.

 

Hell ya nice ride.......

 

I took it one step further and used the 32 brake actuators along with the 32 perches, axle and kingpins. Anyone have any comments or pics how they altered the 32 lever angles to face the 31 brake cross shaft? It also seems like the 31 brake rods will be about an inch short? Is that right?

Sent from my SCH-I535 using H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Just add a 1 inch flat stock spacer on top of the perch pin to get the proper angle for the brake actuator. The Brake rods should be the same lenght, I did not modify them at all.

 

Do you have any close-up pics of the brake actuators and the levers? My email is [email protected]

Thanks So-cal Tex

 

Stan,

It appears you and SoCalTex are talking about two separate issues; he is referencing an extension to be used with stock A perches to line up the actuators (vertically) with a dropped (or 32-36) axle. You don't need an extension tab, as you are using 32-34 perches.

Your issue is the fact that the 32-34 actuators point the brake rods toward the center of the car...to use your 32-34 actuators, you're going to need to do a little work. IIRC, a guy on the Ford Barn swapped kingpins & actuators (passenger on driver's side & vice-versa) to get everything to line up, but shock arm clearance was an issue. You might have to heat & bend the actuator lever to get things lined up.

It would be way easier IMO to use A actuators (you'll have to use A kingpins with those)...if you go that route, nothing will need to be modified.

 

Here's the post on FordBarn; http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showpost.php?p=639097&postcount=13

And a pic; notice his actuators bolt onto the perches from the rear - you have yours bolted on from the front...

 

thanks G. I already sold the complete '31 front end and invested quite a bit into the '32 parts I already have installed. It looks like a little heating and twisting will be in order.

 

I did the same thing Went crazy & bought all 32-34 front end components...luckily, I found a NOS set of A actuators just in case. Keep me posted; I'd really like to try to use all 32-34 parts.

 

I am using '32-'34 perches which still require the 1 inch extension to align the model A cross shaft with the perch.

Works like Henry intended it to.

 

Thank you SoCal, I am using the 32 perches with '32 cross shaft. All lines up except the brake rods.

I was looking for someone who has made this retrofit successfully.

 

Gotcha...forgot you're running a dropped axle, was looking at Stan's pictures (undropped 32 axle).

 

Well, I promised to post some more erecent pictures of the roadster so here is it on the salt in 2011 when we used it to push start Fred Modello lakester, I was there with my buddy Justin B. and Ben D. wrenching on the "Mind blower" C/GR roadster, one of the best hot rod trips to date.

 

cool Salt Flats photos, Doug, I usually go in September to the USFRA meet, have a guy here in town that runs a A/Fuel Streamliner, and kinda help him out as much as my limited knowledge can...

 

Dave, Bonneville is heaven for us Hotrodders and I can't wait to get back there.