Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical Can't stick it

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by dtwbcs, Mar 21, 2014.

  1. dtwbcs
    Joined: Nov 15, 2011
    Posts: 867

    dtwbcs
    Member
    from Brenham,TX

    I am trying to attach the rubber seal to stainless steel fender skirts. Tried 3M weather stripping and also contact cement. Both failed after a short time. No damage to either pieces though.
    What do U think?
     
  2. Wipe it down with acetone and use urethane.
     
  3. dtwbcs
    Joined: Nov 15, 2011
    Posts: 867

    dtwbcs
    Member
    from Brenham,TX

    didn't think to wipe down.didnt think it mattered
     
  4. my47buicksuper
    Joined: May 23, 2013
    Posts: 296

    my47buicksuper
    Member
    from sunny fl.

    You got to think how many times its been polished up cleaned up you got all sorts of residue left on it , good luck
     

  5. Kensey
    Joined: Sep 25, 2006
    Posts: 737

    Kensey
    Member
    from Pittsburgh

    That's why they used to heavy duty staple them. Just clean and try again. Store bought 3M is no where near as good as it used to be! Fuken safety laws, someone probably complained because it stuck to something too firmly.
     
  6. 63 Avanti 3137
    Joined: Dec 23, 2010
    Posts: 160

    63 Avanti 3137
    Member

    I recently had to rejoin metal to rubber on a pressure washer mounting buffer.
    I tried 3M black trim adhesive but it didn't really set up so after cleaning everything back up inc' W&G remover, I tried some Weaver Adhesive I had stored in the fridge.
    It's a 2K glue used for Zodiac's and the like and I was quite happy with the results. Not safe around paint is my guess but it would be a good option for OP's use.
     
  7. dtwbcs
    Joined: Nov 15, 2011
    Posts: 867

    dtwbcs
    Member
    from Brenham,TX

    47
    good point
     
  8. Firecat7
    Joined: Dec 11, 2011
    Posts: 269

    Firecat7
    Member

    get all the old glue off......use window urethane ,used to glue in windshields. :D
     
  9. Try super glue.
     
  10. jkeesey
    Joined: Oct 12, 2011
    Posts: 652

    jkeesey
    Member

    I have had good luck with GE silicone II available a home depot and places like that. Ive used it to hold on emblems and actually had it rip the paint right off the car rather than let go.
     
  11. I used black silicon to do the same thing, except on painted skirts. I put silicon on the edge of the skirt, put the strip in place, and taped it down overnight while it dried. This is after cleaning the surfaces with wax & grease remover.
     
  12. dtwbcs
    Joined: Nov 15, 2011
    Posts: 867

    dtwbcs
    Member
    from Brenham,TX

    ok will go and clean the edges and start over

    thanks
     
  13. Barsteel
    Joined: Oct 15, 2008
    Posts: 732

    Barsteel
    Member
    from Monroe, CT

    I've used DAP contact adhesive from Home Depot. You can find it in the paint/glue aisle. The same kind used to adhere laminate to countertops. It glued fabric to metal with no problems at all.

    Chris
     
  14. dtwbcs
    Joined: Nov 15, 2011
    Posts: 867

    dtwbcs
    Member
    from Brenham,TX

    tried the contact cement where u let the pieces get tacky;without any luck
     
  15. Maybe drill holes & pop rivet with small washers and glue to stop any sagging.
     
  16. safari-wagon
    Joined: Jan 12, 2008
    Posts: 1,457

    safari-wagon
    Member

    That wont work. Cynoacrylate glues break down in water.
    SG was orig designed for quick battlefield suchers, then the body's fluids break it down.



    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  17. Ulu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 1,775

    Ulu
    Member
    from CenCal

    It's the same issue as all good paint and primer work: The main key is perfectly clean metal.

    If you want glue to really stick, then after de-greasing you sand or etch the metal. Otherwise you're just gluing rubber to the film of "whatever" that is on the metal.
     
  18. Ulu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 1,775

    Ulu
    Member
    from CenCal

    What's funny is that hot gasoline won't dissolve it. I re-used unavailable antique carb gaskets by swelling them with Krazy Glue and letting them cure before installing. They never leaked or broke down.

    The fumes of uncured cyanoacrylates are deadly though. Don't ever put your face above uncured Krazy glue. Burns the eyes like a sumbitch. :eek:
     
  19. dtwbcs
    Joined: Nov 15, 2011
    Posts: 867

    dtwbcs
    Member
    from Brenham,TX

    wiped down with acetone and attached using liquid nails. Told that silicone was more of a caulk verses an adhesive. shoulda went to auto parts house instead of Lowes . Oh well, as long as it works...
     
  20. unkledaddy
    Joined: Jul 21, 2006
    Posts: 2,865

    unkledaddy
    Member

    I can't believe that when cleaned properly the two pieces can't be stuck together with two coats of contact cement, allowing them to dry to the touch between coats and before final placement.
     
  21. Ulu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 1,775

    Ulu
    Member
    from CenCal

    My God I hope it works as an adhesive! :eek:

    I've got 250 lb sheets of glass glued to aluminum with GE silicone on the sides of 35 story buildings. (No I don't own 'em. I just designed the windows.)
     
  22. chopolds
    Joined: Oct 22, 2001
    Posts: 6,214

    chopolds
    Member
    from howell, nj
    1. Kustom Painters

    It couldn't hurt to scuff up the part where the rubber goes on. Scratches will help the glue hold, just like it helps paint hold. And ALWAYS clean surfaces before gluing, painting, or whatever.
     
  23. dtwbcs
    Joined: Nov 15, 2011
    Posts: 867

    dtwbcs
    Member
    from Brenham,TX

    yeah I wiped both pieces down very well this time...
     
  24. Ulu
    Joined: Feb 26, 2014
    Posts: 1,775

    Ulu
    Member
    from CenCal

    Go on the GE silicone web site & read the cleaning procedures for 4-sided "silicone glazing".

    When it really must stick, life-or-death you know, follow that procedure for cleaning and priming. (Be careful to observe where the procedures are slightly different for the different types of silicone.)

    In the 80's I did proposals for the engineering of the original "Biosphere" project, where they wanted a 100 year guarantee on the silicone glazing. :rolleyes: but silicone glue wasn't even developed until the space program of the 60's as I recall. A twenty-something year history IMHO just isn't enough to be that confident (but GE evidently was confident enough based on "accelerated aging" tests.)

    When they actually built the sealed glass dome, it was 100% airtight and it nearly killed the people living in it from hypoxia! They made way more co2 than the oxygen coming from their farming could offset, proving that it's pretty damn hard to grow food under a dome and still breathe. :D

    That sucker was air tight then, but who knows if it'll last 100 years.
     
  25. dtwbcs
    Joined: Nov 15, 2011
    Posts: 867

    dtwbcs
    Member
    from Brenham,TX

    I forgot about that "biosphere" project. Bet it would now make a neat green house.

    Looks like the rubber stuck this time.Will read about silicone

    Thanks everybody:)
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.