Technical '29 model A pickup project questions.

Hi guys, I just brought home a very nice stock model A pickup and have been researching my planned build and learning a ton here on the H.A.M.B. I do have a couple of questions that I cannot seem to find any information on yet.




Although this is my first traditional Ford hot rod project, I was a master auto technician for 20 years and have been restoring, racing and hot rodding cars for over 30 years now. I consider myself a decent fabricator and have a pretty well equipped shop to work out of so I am doing everythin except the engine machine work myself.

This truck has absolutely perfect patina and is in amazingly good original condition. All of the wood, including the bed is in good shape and has a beautiful grey aged look. My goal is to build it not only like it would have been in the early '50s, but to make it actually look like it was built in the early '50s. Basically all go, no show. I plan to retain as many stock parts and use as many home-built and "junkyard" parts as possible. I also plan to preserve the original paint as much as possible.

So here is the plan for the truck. Please feel free to add your 2 cents.

Swap in an 8BA with a merc crank. (just bought a runner, I haven't torn it down yet to check it out ) and the only compromise to my theme, a T-5 trans out of an S10 for drivability's sake.
I am thinking the engine mods will be shaved stock heads, SBC valves, a good port job, Isky Max-1 cam, and and and Offy 2 pot intake.

For the suspension and driveline, I am thinking a 4" dropped front axle with the stock front spring. I may swap in a reverse eye main leaf or remove leaves as needed. (advise would be appreciated here) From what I have read, I will need to split the bones, but I want to keep them as triangulated as I can to keep the axle located, maybe fab a crossmember for them. I have no problem with cutting them at the axle mount to get the correct caster. I have not found a rear axle yet, but it will be a banjo stye of some sort, and am not sure how I am going to mount it yet. I want to use some sort of stock or modified stock Ford parts. I am also unsure about lowering he rear. This truck is is going to be a driver, and be used as a pickup, so I want to maintain some load carrying ability. I only plan on driving on warm, sunny days (about 350 days a year here in Phoenix!) I don't want to move the spring behind the axle or move the spring crossmember because the original wood bed has perfect patina and I don't want to have to cut it.
I have read that the F-1 steering gear is the way to go, but I absolutely love the stock a steering wheel with the light switch built in, so I want to find way to retain it. How bad is the stock A steering? Can I upgrade it later, or is this a "must do right now" thing?
Upgrading to juice brakes is a no brainer, it will barely stop now with the 4 banger.



I really, really want to chop the top. I am 5'6" so room is not a problem. I have found zero info on chopping early A pickups. I need to take a tape measure to it yet, but I would like to remove the "forehead" above the windshield, and chop the rest accordingly. The body lines on the back of the cab present a problem, and I am thinking that I may need to remove sections both above and below it. Also, since I would be cutting the A pillar above the windshield and the window frames on the door, the upper hinges may need to be relocated. I have no idea how will do all of this and blend the paint back to the original patina. Any advice on doing a chop on these trucks or preserving the paint would be greatly appreciated.
I had not planned on making this a novel!
Thanks in advance for your comments. I hope I can can contribute to the board in some way in repayment for everything I have learned so far!
zags

 

DON'T...............The tall top is what sets them apart from all the rest and defines the truck.........28/29..no way...30/31 looks good chopped

 

I'm in the process of collecting part for a similar project, I already have a '5oMerc bored .080" over, dual 94's etc. Had to use the 8CM heads because the machine shop decked the block and aftermarket and EAB heads didn't have enough clearance. I have a 35 trans and a T-5 B&G 5 speed/OD . All sheet metal acquired and all rust repaired except bed which will probably be one from Brookville.
If you look, I have a post requesting info on a recommended rear axle setup. Looking at a '40 rear - and may convert to open drive/ rear spring setup. Frame not acquired at present - maybe aftermarket since I can't find one set up for an AV8 on Hamb. Iwas hopping someone on the East coast may be moving to a new project and have one for sale. I'll watch posts and keep in touch. Oh yes, I like the tall top unless non-fendered rat-rod.

Jack 34pu

 

Thanks for the replies guys, I am really torn on the chop. I am sure that I will change my mind several times before I finally decide. It is easier to do than undo, so it is something I can always go back and do later if the mood strikes me. I did to a quick photoshop 4" chop on a picture I found on the internet, and it looks pretty sweet to me. I think it keeps the character of 28-29

 

^^^^what he said ^^^^

 

I recommend that you do not chop the top. I have a 29 pickup with a stock height top and it really looks good that way. Always attracts a lot of attention wherever I take the little pickup.

 

No chop. Especially if you want to preserve the paint. Henry got the proportions right from the get go. Post some pix of your truck!

 

Don't chop it. I wish I had one. I used a tired sedan for my project. I am 5,9 and could use more room.

 

I also agree, don't chop it.

 

What they said ^^^^^^^ DON'T CHOP IT!

 

There is a gentleman in California, Mel Gross and his son Randy Gross that modify F100 boxes to bolt into the A and use the stock wheel and light switch.

I am running a reverse eye rear main in my pickup with 7 leaves. Gets it pretty low,but can still haul.

 

Also...mine is not chopped and I have to stop 2-3 car lengths from traffic lights or bent over to see ....everyone forgets about the windshield being about 5-6" shorter than the side view makes it look like...plus the visor sticking out and down hinders view.......

 

how would one get in contact with this guy and do the boxes fit and work well?

 

They look good tall

 

I really like the look of these trucks with the height of the windshield header taken out of the roof. I personally have never chopped one of those cabs but I think you have the right idea as you described it. You take some material out from the top and bottom of the window panel to keep it looking equal, and you could hack the corners anywhere. I would cut the doors below the top hinge and relocate it lower on the windshield post then just cut the chunk out of the windshield header.

I saw a truck at a local show that looked like it was running a car windshield header and visor, boy did that look sharp! I say chop it because they look goofy with the door window being bigger than the windshield

 

I found his contact info.

You can email him at: [email protected]
Or call: 714-292-8660.

From the searches I've done, I have read nothing but rave reviews about the steering boxes. I will be contacting him about that f-100 steering gear for sure.

 

That is great info. It got me to thinking that I could disassemble the rear spring, de-arch it some, then flip the main leaf and re-arch it. That way I could build a lowered, reverse eye spring with all of the leaves still in it to keep it's load carrying capacity.

 

That will be a kidney pounder for sure. I really didn't like driving mine on a stock rear spring last year. I couldn't even bounce it with a stock pack. Now it has some spring, but plenty of weight capacity still too. Also loosing some of the pack is part of the drop around 3/4 to 1 inch. a fairly significant amount of the total.

 

Do not chop it I know of a local ccpu that has been chopped it is always for sale soon after someone buys it
It looks to be a nice well built pick up but not to drive long term