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Projects The Hardscrabble Hop-Up; A 1940's Style 'T' RPU build

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by gwhite, Jul 21, 2013.

  1. jw johnston
    Joined: Oct 16, 2011
    Posts: 106

    jw johnston
    Member

    This truck just keeps getting better! I really dig the commercial grill, just seems to fit the era you are shooting for better. Don't get me wrong i love the t grill on a gow job but those commercial grills just scream war time/ early post war hot rod to me. I was back and forth as well on my rpu on positioning the body and just went with where the wheel well bulges centered with the rear wheels. Felt the best sitting in it as well with where the stock model a pedals, shifter and steering column line up. If I had more time I was thinking about moving the wheel well bulge back a bit in order to be able to move the body forward a bit. Here is how mine sits at the moment. I may do these modifications at a later date and either chop the grill shell and radiator down or possibly run a chopped commercial grill. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1394777918.160539.jpg


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  2. Sweet little RPU! You got a build thread going?
     
  3. brokenspoke
    Joined: Jul 26, 2005
    Posts: 2,968

    brokenspoke
    Member

    Ditto
     
  4. MrModelT
    Joined: Nov 11, 2008
    Posts: 2,745

    MrModelT
    Member

    Ya know......I am think I'm startin' to feel the '32 shell...

    Especially with the tall windshield and the 18" wires. If you are going for the 1938 - 1945 era look....I think this works.

    A nice Nickle T shell shouldn't be that hard to find...

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  5. olskool34
    Joined: Jun 28, 2006
    Posts: 2,599

    olskool34
    Member

    What are you going to do about the height? Cut the sides down or chop the shell?
     
  6. Not sure yet. Probably cut the sides and drop it down over the cross member...not sure I'm talented enough with a welder to section it & get all the grille bars welded up right.
     
  7. olskool34
    Joined: Jun 28, 2006
    Posts: 2,599

    olskool34
    Member

    Send it to me, I can chop it if you want to go that route.


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  8. Yeah, windshield will be cut down about 4", but still fairly high compared to most. For tires, I'm going to put those knobbies on the back for running around town, fronts will be Denman 5.25-5.50x17, rears will be Firestone 7.00x17's shown here;

    [​IMG]

    Sweet! I'll keep that in mind. You did a fantastic job on your T shell!
     
  9. RainierHooker
    Joined: Dec 20, 2011
    Posts: 2,031

    RainierHooker
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    You'll like those rear tires. I do. They look awesome, and you get a bonus poor-man's-overdrive.


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  10. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 30,787

    The37Kid
    Member

    If you do chop that '32 shell, cut the sides, but cut the bars at the bottom, fit the chin part, mark the bar cuts, and reweld. That way when you reweld them the bars will be straight, make a spacer to keep things straight. Bob
     
  11. olskool34
    Joined: Jun 28, 2006
    Posts: 2,599

    olskool34
    Member

    Good advice.
     
  12. anything going on down there?
     
  13. olskool34
    Joined: Jun 28, 2006
    Posts: 2,599

    olskool34
    Member

    seems like the majority of T builds have gone silent for a moment, not including Anderson.
     
  14. Still working at it here & there; work & family commitments have killed my spare time lately...should be back on it in more significant ways soon!
     
  15. Yeah mine too. Gonna repost a new build thread on mine when I get a lil more done.

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  16. olskool34
    Joined: Jun 28, 2006
    Posts: 2,599

    olskool34
    Member

    Me too, life gets in the way some times.
     
  17. Small update:
    Finally found a good flywheel housing @ Chickasha back in March. Looked at 9 or 10 before I found one that wasn't cracked. Dropped off the remainder of my motor parts with Ross; should have a completed motor soon...will upload a vid when the time comes!
     
  18. mike erb
    Joined: Aug 2, 2006
    Posts: 17

    mike erb
    Member

    Looks real good Gary. You can drive it to Chickasha next year!
     
  19. RussTee
    Joined: Mar 25, 2008
    Posts: 1,241

    RussTee
    Member

    looking good from another Tee RP owner
     
  20. Thanks fellas!

    Testing Instagram feature...
    [​IMG]
     
  21. steel rebel
    Joined: Jun 14, 2006
    Posts: 3,604

    steel rebel
    Member Emeritus

     
  22. steel rebel
    Joined: Jun 14, 2006
    Posts: 3,604

    steel rebel
    Member Emeritus

    Sorry I'm still trying to get used to the new format.
    What I wanted to say is that I have to be real careful about adding to much stuff to my '50s style T but I think you have more latitude. In a build like yours I would be looking for more period pieces and I love the WWII pin and I think you should fit it into your build.

    Gary
     
  23. fur biscuit
    Joined: Jul 22, 2005
    Posts: 7,831

    fur biscuit
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    wonderful build, keep up the good work.
     
  24. Sorry for the stupid long delay in getting updates posted up...still waiting to get the motor buttoned up, hope to have a vid of it running soon. Next big step is getting body mounts fabbed, everything mocked up, then chassis will go out for blasting & paint.

    In the meantime, the wife & kiddos surprised me with a NOS D.S.M. coil for Father's Day. I've got some choices to make on the dash now ...not sure what I'll end up doing.

    [​IMG]
     
  25. RainierHooker
    Joined: Dec 20, 2011
    Posts: 2,031

    RainierHooker
    Member
    from Tacoma, WA

    Don't do the '34 Chevy cluster, I've got one that I am saving for the next build. Whenever that is...


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  26. woodbutcher
    Joined: Apr 25, 2012
    Posts: 3,310

    woodbutcher
    Member

    :D Hi Gary.Loving your build with all the really swell period parts.On the commercial grill.Instead of chrome,personally,I would go with nickle.To me nickle just has a more solid look and feel.Sounds funny,but do the touch test with your fingers or hands.You will see what I mean.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
     
  27. Thanks Leo! I agree on the Nickel vs. Chrome, although at this point it'll probably end up getting painted. I don't think I could afford a nice plating job :)
     
  28. Wow not sure how I missed this thread great build! Very cool to see the attention to detail on period parts.
     
  29. Thanks man!

    Small update; got my steering & seating position mocked up...who says a tall guy (6'3") can't fit into a T? Basically, I removed the seat riser and built a new one approx 2 1/2" shorter. Cushion will be a flat one, about 3" shorter than stock for a total seat 'drop' of about 5 1/2".
    Seat position.jpg

    With the seat lowered, I found myself looking under the steering wheel rather than over it...the wheel most definitely needed to drop a few inches. To solve the problem, I slotted the holes in the frame to allow the column to drop 3-4". Unfortunately, this put the steering wheel at odds with my legs...just not quite enough room to operate the pedals without my legs hitting the wheel. Solution: longer steering shaft.

    I could have very easily cut the A shaft and spliced a longer section in, but I'm not wild about welding steering components. Taking a cue from my pal @Carter, I sourced a '34 (15:1) steering box and '35 shaft. The 35-40(ish) steering shafts are 46.50" long (almost 2" longer than the A) and have splines on the worm-end that are dimensionally the same as the 33-4. In other words, the 33-4 worm can be pressed onto the longer '35 shaft. This 'package' is easily bolted to the A frame by using the A sector housing. The result; better steering via the 34 box and a longer shaft that provides needed clearance with the lower seat & column position - all using genuine Henry components. And the best news; a stock '35-39 horn/light rod fits without modification.

    [​IMG]

    More pics to come soon!
     
  30. Jungle Jalopy
    Joined: Mar 31, 2010
    Posts: 322

    Jungle Jalopy
    Member

    image.jpg So many cool details going on here. Your build is inspirational...to the point where I was inspired to drag a T roadster body ( though a '25) from the mainland to the middle of image.jpg the Pacific! T Fever, it's sweepin' the Nation!
     

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