Try this: <table width="100%"><tbody><tr><td width="33.333333%"> FEDERAL HILL TRADING COMPANY </td> <td width="33.333333%">OEM suppliers since 1995 in small bore hydraulic tubing for automotive and light truck brake applications. </td> <td width="33.333333%">OUR PHILOSOPHY "Lasting value is built with quality products and expertise." </td> </tr> </tbody></table> Home Technical Help Testimonials About Us Contact Us <table id="ctl00_columns" class="page-body-columns" style="border-collapse:collapse;" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" border="0"><tbody><tr><td id="ctl00_leftColumn" class="page-column-left"><nav> Products Links below contain tubing and the nuts and fittings for that size tubing British-Girling Fuel/Hydraulic/Brake Line Tubing, Nuts and Fittings 3/16"/4.75mm Brake Line Tubing, Nuts, and Fittings 3/16"/4.75mm Brake Lines American thread Nuts, Fittings, Tee's for 3/16"/4.75mm Brake Lines Metric thread Nuts, Fittings, Tee's for 3/16"/4.75mm Brake Lines AN Nuts and Fittings for 3/16"/4.75mm Brake Lines 1/4" Brake Line Tubing, Nuts and Fittings 1/4" Brake Lines American thread Nuts, Fittings, Tee's for 1/4" Brake Line Tubing Metric thread Nuts, Fittings, Tee's for 1/4" Brake Line Tubing AN Nuts and Fittings for 1/4" Brake Line Tubing 5/16"/8mm Fuel/Hydraulic Line, Nuts and Fittings 5/16"/8mm Fuel/Hydraulic Line American thread Nuts and Fittings for 5/16"/8mm Fuel/Hydraulic Line Metric thread Nuts and Fittings for 5/16"/8mm Fuel/Hydraulic Line AN Nuts and Fittings for 5/16"/8mm Fuel/Hydraulic Line 3/8" Fuel/Hydraulic Line, Nuts and Fittings 3/8" Fuel/Hydraulic Line American thread Nuts and Fittings for 3/8" Fuel/Hydraulic Line Metric thread Nuts and Fittings for 3/8" Fuel/Hydraulic Line AN Nuts and Fittings for 3/8" Fuel/Hydraulic Line 1/2" Fuel/Hydraulic Line 1/2" Fuel/Hydraulic Line 6mm Brake Line Tubing 6mm Brake Lines 10mm Fuel/Hydraulic Line, Nuts and Fittings 10mm Fuel/Hydraulic Line Metric thread Nuts and Fittings for 10mm Fuel/Hydraulic Line 12mm Fuel/Hydraulic Line 12mm Fuel/Hydraulic Line Bleed Screws, Banjo Bolts and Misc. Hardware American Thread Metric Thread British-Girling Flaring Tools Flaring Tool Rental </nav> </td><td id="ctl00_centerColumn" class="page-column-center"> Home > 5168mmdirectory <table class="content " style="width:100%;" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" border="0"><tbody><tr class="content-top-row"><td class="content-tl"> </td><td class="content-tp"> </td><td class="content-tr"> </td></tr><tr class="content-body-row"><td class="content-lt"> </td><td class="content-body"> 5/16"/8mm FUEL/HYDRAULIC LINE, NUTS, FITTINGS AND TEE'S </td></tr></tbody></table></td></tr></tbody></table>
The way they make fuel line nowadays, copper is better even the thin wall stuff. I had "fuel" line start dripping and went o grab it and the outer sheath of the hose came off. I like swagelock stainless tubing. very ridged and clean. fittings come in 1/4" NPT to 1/2" NPT and bigger. Nice tight sealing, stainless, almost like chrome. won't crush. bends fairly easy. Buy a stainless tubing cutter though! Oh and good for 5000 PSI.
CuNiFer is recommended for brake line, so it sure as hell should work for gas line! Copper does look cool, but it does have a risk, why play with fire? (literally)
I'm running the nicopp 3/8 lines along the frame, with connections to airquip teflon s.s. flex lines with -6an fittings at the engine and tank. What is the best type of fitting to use on the nicopp line to attach to the airquip flex hose fittings?
I guess I should have asked if flared fittings are prefered for the nicopp lines or compression fittings. I've found both.
I am a fan of Swageloc fittings and have been using them at work for many years. The fittings come in every imaginable size and type in both stainless and brass. I have been known to polish the stainless ones and they look great. I currently have some polished stainless fittings on a Pontiac tri power set up; I'll have see if I have any pictures of it. The only issue I have with them is the price, they can be pretty spendy. And yes they are good to several thousand PSI. The factory reps used to do a demonstration where they would pressurize a piece of tubing with a Swageloc end on it. The tubing would burst before the fitting leaked, pretty amazing.
I just went to ACE hardware and got 5/16" copper line, no idea what it is, specifically. I coiled it around a mandrel, flared it and connected my 3 deuces to the fuel log. The feed line from the mechanical pump to the fuel log is the same, formed to follow the contours and to look nice coming up from below. It's been on there for years with no problems. And yes, it gets driven. I think the problems arise if you let 'em flop around or try to run them between two points that can move independently in relation to each other such as from the frame to the engine. I always liked the polished copper fuel line look and it's been on all my street cars since high school with no problems. Bitchin' Caddy Dreddybear!!!!
Like 51 Norm, I am a fan of the Swagelok brand of compression fittings too. They are very forgiving and always seal without having to put a lot of arm into them. You can take them apart and put them back together endlessly and they will seal up every time. On fuel lines I like using the 3/8 SS / .035 wall tubing. I also have used these fittings in our work for the last 30ty plus years. Pricey?? You get what you pay for. Fuel leaks can be really costly.
Thanks for the references..I'll look for the swagelok fittings. Halibrandsteve...I'm not sure if you were making that reference to me, or the previous posters who talked about using copper tubing. Nicopp is totally different than copper, one of the reasons I like it so much is the copper tint it has when new totally dissapears when polished...looks more like chrome or polished stainless with very little effort. All of the advantages of stainless tubing without the disadvantages (excepting price). BTW, Summit has, or had last week the 3/8 on sale for 50. ish per 25' coil. Summit has their own brand, not the NiCopp brand, so you'll have to search for nickle-copper tubing . If you search for NiCopp, nothing will come up.
Not a comment to anyone specifically, just curious if the "look" of copper would be better achieved by plating a known, safe material for lines like steel. Steve
check out the indian motorcycle burn to the ground on u-tube. it had copper lines. the key word had. i talked to the rider after it happened. he said the line cracked and fuel ran down on the engine. find another way to make your car look cool. a word to the wise should be sufficient.
So I found the heavy wall 1/4" copper line I was looking for at the local refrigeration repair shop. It was removed from an old refrigeration unit and is 5 times heavier than any of the new stuff I was finding at the hardware stores. The stuff looks great, but after reading a lot of the comments I'm concerned that it isn't the right choice. Can someone please explain why heavy copper isn't safe? I mean if its installed correctly, why isn't it safe. I'm no metallurgist, but in my mind I would think the copper would be able to "flex" rather than break under stress. Yes, vibration would work harden copper but wouldn't that occur with any metal? I'm running the stock model B mechanical fuel pump (which puts out 3 pounds of pressure) so bursting isn't an issue. Obviously I don't want to blow up, but I just want to make sure that I'm not getting rid of copper lines because there's a 1 in a million chance it will fail. I got lots of stuff on my car that are less safe than that.
Because it is a copper, nickle, ferrous alloy. http://www.brakeconnect.com/product/brake-line-cunifer-copper-nickel-multiple-sizes http://www.brakequip.com/products/tube/ezi-bend-tube
That may well be the case, however if I was dead set on the visual appearance of copper I would fab my lines from the safer material like Cunifer and then have them plated with copper.
In the UK we are allowed to use copper tube for brake lines, so pressure is the least of your worries.
Ok, so why is HEAVY WALL copper so dangerous?? If it's mounted correctly and has a coil for vibration why is it not safe? Sent from my SCH-I535 using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Morrisman, Are you sure it isn't a copper alloy? Copper alloy is the cunifer / copernic, etc. discussed above as being superior to straight copper.
Work hardening. Cunifer is a alloy. It is more malleable than straight copper. Meaning it takes longer to work harden. Thus less chance of it developing a crack. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I haven't received mine yet....but it looks like copper in pictures. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Ok, so I can understand that, but is this really a danger? I mean I understand that a crack would be a danger, but realistically how much chance is there that heavy wall copper will crack? I say this assuming that the lines are installed correctly. What I'm getting at is that if Cunifer will last me 150K miles and heavy wall copper lines will last 120K miles I don't think its enough to worry about. After talking to a few refrigeration guys it seems to me like heavy wall copper has been used in refrigeration units for a long time and they are not only subject to continuous vibration but also extreme pressure and don't fail for decades. I'm not trying to purposely be unsafe, I just want to understand why some people are completely against copper. If copper is a ticking time bomb that could break easily I will re-do my lines with Cunifer, but if copper will last 100K miles then I'll risk it. Thanks again for all the input and advice.
I think if you secure your lines well to prevent movement, I don't see why it would be a problem. What about copper lines used on 3x2 setups back in the day? Someone concur?
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