Marching to a Banger beat - The March 2014 Banger Meet

It is an adapted RS1600 Kent engine damper I use the competition version which heavier with dampers the heavier the ring the better
simple to adapt bore a little and sleeve to suit seal

Yes a harmonic balancer (damper) makes a huge difference to a T ,A, B, model engine with or without counter weights
I have broken a few cranks back before fitting Harmonic Balancers
Never broken 1 since fitting a H/B

 

Indian if Rudi Eggenberger is near you he should have these balancers

 

Convincing enough for me! Any chance you might have the machining dimensions to hand any time - I feel I might be buying a couple fairly soon...

 

Phil Sorry not really have anything written down when I use an original pulley and take my measurements from it
I use romac balancers very nice billet units
I know you being in the UK will have more choices

 

Damn, I have a lot of reading to do...subscribed.

 

Had a few hours to myself today, got the motor up on my engine stand and removed the sump,
Found,
1/Early diamond/bever tailed crank
2/early timing pointer
3/only 3 cam bearings
4/flywheel has been lightened

I am happy with what I found above but not happy about finding heavy pitting in one cylinder.
One hole is about 2mm deep, don't know if this can be bored out or will require a sleeve?
It's standard bore now.

 

The cylinder in question

 

2mm is 80 thou witch would require a 160 overbore.

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Might try and hunt another block yet then

 

You can get oversize pistons up to 125 thou easy enough so I'd not give up yet…
You could always sleeve the offending pot if it didn't clean out at that.

 

I wish I got to talk to this guy in Detroit this past weekend


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Kevin's car


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There doesn't seem to be much info out there on Ford Prefect distributors used in A's and B's. As I understand, they are a direct drop in. I ended up with one, and wonder if it is worth using on an A engine. My dad is putting together a relatively stock A engine (B cam and lightened flywheel) for his 29 RPU. Would this distributor be worth using? If so, we will need to find a rotor.

Thanks,

Neal

 

I'm planning to use the chevrolet style pinch nuts which a lot of guys prefer on the rods in a model B engine. What type of chevrolet is the type i'm after from and where to i buy it? Preferably online. Any thoughts on the use of these nuts?
Thanks.

 

www.mcmaster.com
If they don't have it you don't need it.



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If that distributor doesn't work, Pertronics makes one that drops right in. I believe it's for a Perkins engine in a Clark lift truck.

I have the part number, if you need it.

JK

 

Check out GMC Bubba on a new single point that he sells...I saw it on the Ford Barn

 

Thanks!
It was kind a hard to find there though. I suppose it is 7/16 UNF that fits on our rods. From memory at least. Is that from Big block Chevrolet?
Anybody?

 

Try these ARP part numbers:
ARP 235-6403
ARP 300-8303
ARP 134-6004

Or GM performance part numbers:
12366568
3942410
340289
12366569
14044866

Here is a link to the GM performance catalog.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Chevy/specs/gm_performance_parts_catalog_2006.pdf

Page 221 has pictures.



.

 

That's been my motto about McMaster for years. Even if it's not in their catalog if you can describe it they will get it. Have done that several times, I love that place.

 

has anyone played with a Buda WTU engine?

I came across one in a scrapies "collection" today. it is set up as an industrial/mine/farm power unit but from what I can see they were also used in some cars (taxi's) and trucks in the 20's.

approx. 3.7L, 22.5hp, 4.0:1cr, pressure oiling and a water pump. 2 intake ports and 4 exhaust ports. 3 main bearings.

see page 9 and 10 for a little more info: http://www.thehistorycenteronline.c...ld_Equipment_Catalog_28_04_Part_Four_1928.pdf

I didn't ask a price as I had never heard of the buda company until I saw the engine and had no idea if it was worth chasing... I still don't. any thoughts?

if anyone is interested i'll try to upload the pics tomorrow.

 

America's version of the Renault FT17 light tank (the M1917 6 Ton) used a Buda HU engine.

Buda was aquired by Allis Chalmers in '53.

Don't know much beyond that...

 

I copied this from a post on "Ford Barn", to help clarify the theory behind the crank shaft flex that was discussed earlier. (Search "Ford Barn, Harmonic Balancer" to find complete post/discussion.

I hope this helps with some background regarding the concern. Granted, the higher the compression and engine RPM will have a greater effect, this is some background for understanding.

QUOTE=MikeK;688709]True dat!


The cause:



Below, graphed, you can see that the severity of rotational deviation
is greater as you move forward from the flywheel mass.
This is why a damper is placed at the FRONT of the crank:

Anyone who claims they can prevent this by adding dampening
at the flywheel end is a good snake-oil salesman.

Anyone who claims they can feel smoother running in the seat of their pants
from addition of any "harmonic" device is simply describing improved
primary balance after rebuild. The harmonic torsional flex of the crank
cannot be felt while driving. It is not an 'out-of-balance' condition.[/QUOTE]


More information is on TCI's Web-Site, www.atiracing.com

Bob

 

Great graphic information... I wish I had such info when I was a dumb kid!

 

What have you invested in your banger motor ? I see on another posting here on the HAMB that someone has invested around 60 thousand in their banger motor I started to total up individual parts like a Scat crank and rods Rutherford head and sump sidepates front plate for angle drive distributor Winfield carbs ect and it soon adds up admittedly I am in another country where parts are scarce and it costs me $25 every time I do a money exchange and all this is before I pay for any machining and assembly think about it and maybe throw in a gearbox rebuild or t5 conversion and maybe an overdrive. I would be interested to know what you guys are prepared to pay for your preformance motor before changing to a belly button small block chev or similar? Rusty

 

If you are talking to me, I quit counting at twenty grand (USD).. I guess that I don't want to know how much I've got in it

 

I guess, for the money that I've got in my engine, I could'a had an Offy. However, what I have, and what I do with it (run on short road courses) I believe does better than an Offy or Miller. I think most on the HAMB have seen these videos; but, perhaps they might need revisiting. They were taken on my wife's telephone at last years Rolex Monterey Motorsports Reunion (RMMR). We have been invited back to the RMMR this year. The engine failure on the last lap (while I was leading) was due to a complete coil failure. My primary lead had not been seated completely in the distributor causing the coil to over heat. Have patience with the last video: my wife thought she had turned it off.

Incidentally, our first race will be at Buttonwillow Raceway, May 3rd and 4th
We'll be at Sonoma (Sears Point), May 17th and 16th..
Indianapolis Motor Speedway June 5th through the 8th
RMMR August 8th through the 17th
Auto Club Speedway Fontana CA August 29th and 30th
Coronado Naval Air Station (San Diego) September 19th through the 21st
And the Circuit of the Americas October 8th through the 12th!
I don't think an Offenhauser would do that (without several rebuilds)

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I know of one salt racer that told me he had $25,000 in his SOHC banger. He now has a one off DOHC engine. Who knows what that cost. My Plymouth was fairly cheap. Only the billet rods were expensive by my standards. The Dodge with it's billet crank is another deal.

 

My previous "B" flat head was a running engine that was pulled out of a 33 commercial truck. I paid $660 for it. Pulled the pan, checked and set the clearances, put new "modern" .040" over pistons and rings (didn't bore it), replaced the cam with one of Jim B's Winfeild grinds, added a header and 2 duece intake and 7.6:1 head. Total cost @ $2,500.
Ran it for @ 10,000 miles and at least 30-40 passed at the drag strip. Pulled it because the rod bearings pushed out. It will be rebuilt one day.

My current Flat head "B" engine cost me @ $8,000. Stock bottom end pressurized and inserted. Bigger valves. 4" bore. 7.6:1 CR. I've got over 1,000 miles on it now. running strong.

My stroked "A" with OHV cost just over $15,000. Broke the 1st crank @250 miles. 2nd crank broke @ 1,500 miles. It's just an eye sore and reminder of what not to do.

Whats next? another OHV "B" Maybe with more bearings.

.

 

Fairly mild street engine with most of the work done at the Prus shop. B engine, rebabbitted rods and mains, lightened flywheel, V8 clutch, stock size modern valves, new Stipe cam, cast iron Mallory dist., iron Winfield 6:1 head, Winfield SR-BB downdraft carb and Winfield intake. I've got just under $7K into it, $4100 of that was paying to have the machine/babbitt/ assembly work done, parts for rebuild including the new cam, pistons, rings, valves, etc. and lightened flywheel and V8 clutch. Most of the rest of it was buying the B engine, Winfield stuff and Mallory distributor and other bits and pieces.

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